Handbag designer 101 everything you need to know about designing, making, and marketing handbags

HANDBAG
DESIGNER101
EVERYTHINGYOUNEEDTOKNOWABOUTDESIGNING,
MAKING,ANDMARKETINGHANDBAGS
EMILYBLUMENTHAL


CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
TheAnatomyofaHandbag
HandbagSilhouettes
SewingSkills
FabricandThreadTips
PARTITHEBAGS
EASY:
Tote
Bucket
Wallet
FacileFrame
INTERMEDIATE:
Satchel
Clutch
StructuredCase
Barrel
Drawstring
Messenger
ADVANCED:
Frame

Hobo
Camera
Backpack
Briefcase
PARTIITHEBUSINESS
1GettingStarted
2HandbagDesignFundamentals
3HowtoDesignYourHandbagandGetitMade
4DesigningforYourMarket:GuaranteeYourBagsWillSell
5GoingintoProduction:EverythingYouNeedtoKnow


6TheFundamentalsofStartingYourHandbagBusiness
7FindingYourPlaceintheMarket
8HowtoPresentandSellYourHandbagLine
9Publicity101
10NextStepsforHandbagandBusinessDevelopment
Appendix:BusinessSkills
ResourceGuides
Index
AbouttheAuthor


INTRODUCTION
ForeveryaspiringactorinLosAngeles,thereisanaspiringhandbag
designerinNewYork.Anyonewhohasattendedatradeshow,craftfair,
or home shopping party will recognize the truth of this statement.
HandbagDesigner101willrevieweverythingyouneedtoknowabout
handbags:fromlearningtocreatefifteenessentialhandbagsilhouettes
todevelopingaprofitablebusiness.

MYSTORY
MynameisEmilyBlumenthal,andIamthecreatoroftheYasmenahandbag.
Withoutanydesignexperience,Icreatedabagthathit“thebigtime,”
structuredalicensingcontractwithawell-knownleathergoodscompany,
mademultipleappearancesonQVC(wheremyhandbagssoldoutinlessthan
fourminutes),andaccruedamajorsportswearlicense.TheYasmenabageven
hadacameoonSexandtheCity.
Theideaforthissmall,stylish,practicalhandbagsprungfrommyreal-life
experiences:Aftergoingtowork,togradschool,andthenouttoclubsalmost
fivenightsaweekwithmythenDJboyfriend,Ibegantonoticeavisiblelack
offunctionalhandbags.Whetherawomanwasdancing,drinking,socializing,
orsmoking,allhandbagoptionsseemedtobecumbersomeand
uncomfortable.Womenevenperformedceremonialdancesaroundtheir
handbags.ItwasthenthatIhadanepiphany:therewasavoidinthehandbag
marketfora“goingoutbag”—afashionableyetfunctionalbagthatholdsthe
essentials.TheYasmenabagwasthesolution.
Sincethelaunchofmylinein2000,Ihavebecomeatelevision“Handbag
Expert”whileconsultingformanyup-and-comingindependenthandbag


designersandteachingattheLearningAnnexinNewYorkCityandschools
liketheLaboratoryInstituteofMerchandisingandParsonsTheNewSchool
forDesign.In2006,IlaunchedthewebsiteHandbagDesigner101
(www.handbagdesigner101.com)asacommunityforhandbagdesigners,
aficionados,andexperts.Nowwithmorethan300,000uniquevisitorsand
pageviewsdoublingeverymonthsinceitslaunchandcurrentlyreaching2
million,HandbagDesigner101isanintegralpartoftheaccessoriesindustry.
InJune2007,IheldthefirstannualIndependentHandbagDesignerAwards
attheMuseumoftheCityofNewYork.TheIndependentHandbagDesigner

Awardsprovidedanopportunityforbuddingandexistingdesignerstobreak
intothenotoriouslyexclusivefashionandaccessorybusiness.Designersofthe
trendiestandmoststylishhandbagssquaredoffagainstoneanotherwith
awardsgivenforHandbagDesignExcellence.Fiveyearslater,theHandbag
Awardshasbecomeanindustryevent.Withmorethanathousandinternational
applicants,theIHDAremainstheonlydesigncompetitiontosalutethe
independenthandbagdesigner.

HOWTOBEAHANDBAGDESIGNERORJUSTSEWLIKE
ONE
Throughmyyearsintheindustry,I’vegainedintimateknowledgeofthedayto-daystrugglesandsuccessesthatindependenthandbagdesignersexperience,
andIwanttosharethemwithyou.Whetheryouplantosewhandbagsathome
foryourowncloset,createhandbagsforcraftfairsandartshows,ormakeit
bigandproducebagsthatthehottestcelebritieswanttocarry,thisbookwill
helpyouonyourjourney.
First,youwillfindpatternsandsimplehow-toinstructionsforthefifteen
keyhandbagsilhouettes,includingthosemostpopulartoday:thehobo,clutch,
satchel,andtote.Groupedintermsofdifficulty—beginner,intermediate,and
advanced—thesebagswillhelpyoubuildupskillsasyougoalong.Thebags
picturedaremadeinwhitecanvastoconsistentlydemonstratehowthisbag
willlookifyoufollowtheinstructionsprovided.Alongwitheachsilhouette
arehelpfulsewingtipsfromtheSingerSewingCompany,wordsofwisdom
fromindustryexpertsandwell-knowndesigners,andanecdotesfrom
independentdesigners,plusimagesofdesignerbagstoserveasinspiration.
Thesecondsectionofthebookisacomprehensiveguidetoturningyour
handbaghobbyintoabusiness.AsmyfathersaidtomewhenIstartedout,
“Youwillalwaysbeabletofindsomeonetobuyyourbag,butthatdoesnot


meanyouhaveabusiness.”Hereyou’llfindtheinformationIwishIhadwhen

Iwasstartingout,orevenfiveyearsintomyline:apricingsheet,sample
request,anoperationalflowchart—fromdesigningyourbagtogettingpress
—tradeshowtips,andevenaneasy-to-followmarketingplan.
HandbagDesigner101alsocontainsin-depthskillsinstructionloadedwith
advicefromexpertsinthemarket:fabricandthreadtipsfromCoatsandClark,
interfacingtipsfromPellon,andmuchmore.
Whetheryouseektobuilddesignconfidenceorabusinessarsenal,youwill
finishreadingHandbagDesigner101feelingself-assuredandready.Youhave
tobealittledaringtojointheworldofhandbagdesign,butultimately,taking
thatriskcanbethemostrewardingexperienceofallbecauseyoutoocanbe
thedesignerofthenext“itbag.”


THEANATOMYOFAHANDBAG
MEASURINGAHANDBAG
1.Drop:Measurefromtheheightofthetophandle(inthemiddleofthe
handle)downtothetopseamofthebagbody.
2.Height:Measurefromthecentertopseamofthebagtocenterbottomseam
ofthebag.
3.Length:Measurethefrontofthebagfromthebottomleftseamtothe
bottomrightseam.
4.Width(oftenreferredtoastheGusset):Measurefromthefrontside
seamtothebacksideseam.
*Keepinmindthathandbagsectionsoftentaperorwiden,soitisagoodidea
tospecifyanysizevariationsofthesectionthatyouhavemeasured.

KEYTERMS
PieceGood:Materialthatabagismostlycomposedof,forexamplepie,
fabric,etc.

Trim:Anymaterialthatisusedasanaccentordecoration.
TopHandle:Atypeofhandlenotlongenoughtogoovertheshoulder,it
allowsthebagtobeheldinthehandorinthecrookoftheelbow.
*Thetophandlesofthisbagare“rolled,”whichisatreatmentappliedtothe
materialtogiveitatubularshape(asopposedtoaflathandle).
Seam:Thelinewherepiecegoodsarestitchedtogether.
TopZip:Atypeofzipperedmainclosurethatrunsalongthetopofthebag
body.
Hardware:Anymetal,plasticorjewelthatactsasaconnector,closure,clasp,
ordecoration.
BagBody:Thecentralandlargestcompartmentofthehandbag.
Flap:Portionofthebagorpocketthatreachesoverthetopofagusset,usually
closingthetopopeningofthegusset.
TopStitch:Anyvisiblestitching,usuallyclosetoseams.Topstitchingcanbe
decorative,functional,orboth.
Gusset:Thetriangularendpieceofahandbagorpocketthatgivesdepth.
Feet:Small,usuallymetal,pegsplacedonthebottomofabagtoaddstability
andprotect.
Zipper:Afasteningdeviceconsistingofthreemajorparts:a.)zipperteeth;b.)
zippertape;c.)zipperpulley.Eachoftheseshouldbespecifiedwhen
requestingsamples.
*Often,asmallD-ring(D-shapedmetalring)withastitchedzippertabora
tasselactsasazipperpulley.
InteriorBackWall:Thebackinteriorofthebagisthemostaccessibleareaof
thebaginterior.Forthisreason,itisusuallywheremostpocketsandinterior
functionsareadded.
Lining:Athin,softmaterialthatencompassestheentireinteriorofthebag.
Liningisnecessarytoseparateandprotecttheitemsinthebagfromthe
exteriorshellmaterial.Liningisalsoagreatwaytoenhancethedesignofthe

bagthroughcolor,pattern,andtexture.
Interface:Interface(notshown)isanymaterialthatpadsoraddsstructure
betweentheexteriorshellandtheinteriorlining.Interfaceiscommonlyused


whentheexteriorpiecegoodisverythinorfragile.
C/OLabel:Thecountryoforiginlabelcallsoutwherethehandbagwas
physicallysewntogether.C/Olabelsarenownecessarybylawformostitems
topassthroughU.S.customs.
SeamAllowance:Thedistancebetweentheseamlineandthecutedgeofthe
fabricontheinteriorofabag.Regardlessofwhethertheseamallowanceis
visible,itshouldalwaysbe“clean”topreventfrayingandadddurability.See
detail.
*Thistypeofcleanseamiscalleda“machineovercast.”
*Ifyouaremakingasmallbag,keepinmindthatyoushould“allow”for
about1/2inch(13mm)ofinteriorspaceforseamallowanceateachseam.
ZipperedBackWallPocket:Thisisthemostbasicinteriororganization
element.
BagDivider:Separatingtheinteriorofthebagintohalvesforbetter
organization,thisdividermaybezipperedorhaveadditionalpocketsaddedto
it.
InteriorPockets:Anotherorganizationalelement,theymaybeaddedtoany
oftheinteriorbagwalls.
WovenLabel:The“signature”ofabag,thisisawaytoclaimabagaspartof
afashionlineandisusuallysewntothetopofthebackinteriorwall.


IllustrationbyMeganKearneyASOG

HANDBAGSILHOUETTES
Bucket:Shoulderbagshapedlikeabucketwithwideopentop
entryandovalorroundflatbottomandshouldercarryingstrap.

FacileFrameorSnapFrame:Thistypeofbagusesajointedor
hingedcoveredmetalframethatsnapstogethertoclosethebag.
Unlikearegularframe,thewearermustapplypressuretoopen
thebaginsteadofapplyingpressuretocloseit.

ToteorShopper:Amediumtolargecarry-allsquarebagwith
anopentopentryandtwohandles.

WalletorBillfold:IsasmallminibagorPocketbookthatfolds
andhascompartmentsforcreditcardsandcash.Thewalletispart
oftheSmallLeatherGoods(SLG)category.

BarrelorRollBag:Horizontal,cylindricalpursewithaziptop
closureandshorthandle(s).TheDuffleisthelarger,sturdier
versionofthisbagandisgenerallyusedtocarrysports
equipment.

DrawstringorPullTie:Abagthathasacordwoventhrough
eyeletstogatherandcloseatthetop.Thedrawstringmayform
strapsorthebagmayhaveaseparatestrap.


ClutchorPouchette:Sonamedbecauseitisusuallyclutchedin
thehandsof,orbetweenthearmandthebodyof,thewearer.Itis
asmallbagthateitherhasnostrapsorremovablestraps.The
Envelope(shown)isatypeofClutchwithaflapclosure.

Messenger:Rectangular,roomybagwithalongadjustablestrap
thatiswornslungacrossthebody.Messengersareusually
East/West(horizontalorientation),butmayalsobeNorth/South
(verticalorientation).MessengerBagswereoriginallydesigned
(andnamed)forurbanbicyclemessengersasanalternativetoa
backpack.TheSchoolBagisavariationofthemessenger,with
twobuckledoutsidepocketsandanadditionaltophandle.
Satchel:Squareordome-shapedbagwithawideandflatbottom,
azipperedorclaspedtop,andtwoshorthandlesorstraps.The
bottomofthisbagusuallysitsonroundmetalorplasticfeetthat
protectthebottomofthebag.TheSatchelwasadaptedfrom
luggageandmaybedifferentsizes.Variationsofthisbaginclude
theDoctor’sBag(withacoveredframeclosure)ortheBowler
Bag(taller,usuallywithhardplastichandles).
StructuredorBoxBag:Bagthatisreinforcedwitharigid
material(usuallycardboard)forstructure.Theterm“BoxBag”
referstoitstypicalshape.

Frame:Bagthathasahingedmetaltopthatfastenswithasnap,
knob,orclaspclosure.Oftenusedineveningbags.

Backpack:Bagwithverticaldoubleshoulderstrapsthatisworn
ontheback,betweentheshoulders.Thisbagusuallyhasan
additionaltophandle.Mayalsobewornslungoneithershoulder.


AttachéorBriefcase:ThisbagissimilartoaMessengerin
shape,handles,andsize.However,theAttachéismorestructured
thanaMessengerandhasadditionalinteriororganizationand/or

paddingforofficeitems.Oftenhasatopzipclosureconstruction
toprotectelectronics.Duetoitssizeanddurability,itisoften
usedasaLaptopBag.
Camera:Arectangularbagwithroundedcorners.Ithasatopzip
closureandoftenhaszipperedexteriorpockets.Thisbagusually
hasonelongadjustablestrapusedtocarrythebagacrossthe
bodyandprovideeasyaccesstothewearer.TheFlightBagisthe
largerversionofthisbag.
Hobo:Slouchy,crescent-shapedshoulderbagthatdipsinthe
centerandusuallyhasazip-topclosureandshoulderstrap.

Trapezoid:BaginanA-lineshapethatcanalsobereferredtoas
aFour-Poster.TheTrapezoidcanbereferredtoasaSatchelas
well.

ShoulderBag:Bagthatwascreatedinitiallyforwomentobe
handsfreeintheearlierpartofthe1930s.Historicallysmallto
medium,thisbagcanrunlargeandispairedwithtwothinstraps
orsometimeschainhandlestobewornovertheshoulder.The
CrossbodyisatypeofShoulderBagandhasbecomepopular
andsometimeshasonestrapthatisadjustable.
Wristlet:Thewristletisasmallhandbagwithwallet-like
interiorpocketswithawristcufforstraphandleattached.The
wristletbecamepopularagainduetoitsconvenientshapeand
hold-everythingcapacity.Itissimilarinshapebutnotinsizeto
theclutchandcanalsobeaframebagaswell.
LuggageHandle:Abagwithahard,structuredhandle.Thistypeofbagis


carriedinthecrookoftheelbowbylacingthearmthroughthe

cut-outholeofthehandle.


SEWINGSKILLS
LEATHER
Leatherisnature’sproduct:beautiful,appealing,luxurious,andtimeless.
Attractivetooursenses,welovethewayitfeelsandsmells.
Leathercancomefromalmostanyanimal,issoldpersquarefoot,andis
calledskins.Cowhidestendtobestrong,aremoreconsistentacrosstheskin,
andaretypicallyusedforcasualhandbagsbecausetheyaremoredurable.
Sheep,lamb,andcalfskinarelighterinweight,softer,andtypicalofamore
expensivebag.Thecostperskinisreflectedinquality,thetreatmentofor
finishtotheskin,andtheavailabilityoftheanimal.
MostleatherbagsonCanalStreetinNewYorkCityarepigskin.Reptile
skinsarealsopopular.Snake,eel,lizard,fish,andeventurtleskinsareused.
Theseskinsalsohaveavarietyoffinishessuchasantiqued,glazed,patent,or
suede.Withtoday’stechnology,thereisvirtuallynoendtothedifferent
varietiesofleather.

TYPESOFSKINSAVAILABLE
Cowhide:bestforluggageandcases
Calf:handbagsandwallets
Sheep/lamb:smallbags,handbags,eveningbags
Goat/kids:wallet,structuredbags
Pigskin:smallerbags,handbags
Shearlings:usedforwinterbags
Reptile:alligator,lizard,snakeskin(suchaspython,anaconda),usedfor
fancyleathergoods

FINISHESANDTANNINGPROCESSES

Anilinefinish:fullgrainleathercoloredwithdyestuffratherthanpigments
Buffed:leatherthathasbeensmoothedorsuededbymechanicalsanding
Embossed:amechanicalprocess,usinglotsofheatandpressure,that
permanentlyimprintsdifferenteffectsintotheleathersurface;canresemble


exoticskins,suchaslizards,alligator,crocodile,frogs,turtle;floral,
geometric,andbasketweaveareavailable
Fullgrain:grainleatherinwhichonlythehairhasbeenremoved;available
inanilineorglazedfinishes
Glazedfinish:surfaceoftheleatherpolishedtohighluster
Split:theunderneathlayerofthesidethathasbeensplitoff
Suede:leathersfinishedbybuffingthefleshsidetoproduceanap
Thephysicalpropertiesofleatherhaveuniqueandvaluablequalities.
Functional,flexible,andstrong,wecanmatchspecifictypesofleatherto
variousend-useitems.Cowhideandcalfskinarebestusedforbriefcases,
backpacks,camerabags,hobos,buckets,barrels,drawstrings,messengerbags,
satchels,andtotes.Softer,moredelicateskins,likelambskinandpigskin,are
usedforenvelopes,eveningbags,drawstrings,andframebags.Thesmall,flat
grainofthekidskinsandmoregrainygoatskinsarebestforstructuredbags
andwallets.

SYNTHETICS
SyntheticleatherisusuallyreferredtoaseitherPU(polyurethane)orPVC
(polyvinylchloride).Theycanalsocomeinavarietyoffinishes,somethe
sameasleather.Syntheticsuedeisalsoverypopularandistypicallyreferred
toasUltrasuede®,acommonbrandusedineverythingfromfashiontohome
furnishings.Syntheticsaresoldbytheyardandhavethesamenuancesas
leather;theycomeindifferentgradesandweight.Inadditiontobeinganimal
friendly,syntheticsalsoavoidtheinequalitiesandimperfectionsthatanimal

skinspossess.

OTHERMATERIALS
Othermaterialsrangefromanyfabricyouwouldseeonagarment,jacket,or
evencouch:straw(naturalorsynthetic),canvas,burlap,velvet,tapestry,lace,
satin,silk,andevenyarn.
Ifyouarebuyingastronganddurablesatin,thereisagoodchancethatitis
apoly-satinorapolyesteryarnmadewithasatinweave.Thesematerials
sometimescomeinblendslikepoly-cottonorpoly-rayon.Weaves,suchas
bengaline,arealsoquitecommonforlining.


MATERIALDECORATION
Patternsandprintscanbeaddedfordecorationaswell.Thiscanbedonevia
screen-printing,heattransfer,weavingadesignintothematerial,orhavingthe
fabricmadewithacertaindesign.Embossing,aprocessbywhichdecorations
arepressedintothefabric,isalsoquitepopular.Indebossing,thereverse
processofembossing,thesedecorationsareraised.Whennoinkisused(asin
the“genuineleather”marksonhandbags),itisacalledablindemboss.
Finally,thesematerialscanalsoberuched,whichisagatheredpleat,pleated,
quilted,andevenperforatedstampthatmakesaseriesofholes.
Whenitcomestosourcingfabricsandmaterialslocally,understandwhat
youareaskingfor,howmaterialissold,andhowtonegotiateforbetter
pricing.Makingconnectionsisprioritynumberonebecauseitwillbeyour
tickettonegotiatingmaterials.Whenbuyingfabric,askhowmuchmaterial
qualifiesaswholesale.Mostfabric,regardlessofwhatitis,issoldbytheyard
(asopposedtoleather,whichissoldbythesquarefootsinceit’saskin).
Makeaswatch(apieceoffabricthatiscutofftobeusedasasample)card
ofthematerialsyoulike,andnotethepricesperyardorskin.Thisswatchcard
willbeyourguidelineforyourcolorsperseasonandwillbenecessarytosend

ifyoustartworkingwithanoverseasmanufacturer.Theswatchcardisalso
usedtodemonstratetheothercolorsavailableforyourhandbags.Itcanbe
usedinplaceofproducingsamplesindifferentcolorstosaveoncostandwill
playavitalroleinsourcingmaterialforyourfuturelines.

TRIMMING
Findingtherighttrimmingalsomeansfindingtherightdesignandmaterial.
Beforegettingstartedonselectingtheperfecttrimming,youneedto
understandthematerialyou’regoingtouseforyourhandbag.Onceyouhave
anideaofwhatkindofhandbagyouwouldliketocreate,startoffwithasketch
andthenworkyourwayintothematerials.Makeextracopiesofyoursketch.
Alwayscollectsamplesofswatchesbeforegettingstarted;sometimeswhat
looksgoodonyoursketchmaynotlookgreatinperson.Trylayingoutthe
swatchesalongthesketchtoseeiftheymakethestyleofthehandbagyou
wouldliketocreate.Checkwhatkindoftrimmingitis,aseachtrimminghasa
differentstyleofapplication.
Ifyouaregoingtoaddjewelstoyourhandbag,layoutthedesignwiththe
jewelsfirsttomakesurethejewelsarewellfittedonthehandbag.Takea


pictureofitsoyourememberwhereeachjewelisplaced.
Anotherwayyoucanstartselectingtherighttrimmingisatthetrimming
store.Therearesomanymaterialsthatwouldinspireyou.Onceyouseea
trimmingthatyoufallinlovewith,youcandesignaroundit.

INTERFACING
Interfacingisahiddencomponent.It’sthemagicinthemiddle.
Choosingjusttherightinterfacingiskeytoyourhandbag’sappearanceand
performance.Inahandbag,purse,ortotebag,itcanmakethedifference
betweenaprojectlookingprofessionalandwearingwell.Ifyouusean

interfacingthatistoofirm,itcanmakeyourhandbagstiff,rigid,and
uncomfortable.Withouttherightinterfacing,yourhandbagcanbelimpand
lifeless.
Interfacingmayalsobedescribedasfusibleorsewin.Fusibleinterfacing
hasanadhesiveononeortwosides,whichwillbeactivatedbyyouriron.The
choicebetweenafusibleandasew-ininterfacingdependsonthefabric,the
degreeoffirmnessdesired,andpersonalpreference.Fusiblesaregreattime
savers.They’reeasytoworkwithandcompatiblewithmostfabrics.Theywill
makeafabricslightlycrisperthanasew-ininterfacingofcomparableweight.

PRETESTING
Alwayspretestanyfusiblesbeforestartingyourproject.Werecommend
prewashingyourfabricsifpossibletopreshrinkaswellastoremoveany
finishesthatmaybeonthefabricandcouldinterferewiththefusingprocess.
Topretest,cuta4×4-inch(10×10-cm)pieceoffabric.Cuta2×4-inch(5
×10-cm)pieceofinterfacing.Fuseonlyhalfofthesquarepertheinstructions
includedwiththefusible.Allowthefabrictocool.Theinterfacingshouldbe
firmlyattachedtothefabric.Ifnot,moreheat,time,orpressuremaybe
needed.Evaluatethesurfaceofthefabric.Itshouldbesmooth/unchanged.If
not,theinterfacingmaybetooheavyforthefabricortheironmayhavebeen
toohotduringfusing.Ifthefabricseemstoocrisporheavy,changetoa
lighterweightorconsiderasew-in.Ifthefabricseemstoolimp,considera
crisperinterfacingoraddasecondlayerofinterfacing.
Somefabricssimplycannotbefused.Thefibercontentorthefinishwillnot
allowtheadhesivetopenetrate.Otherfabricsmaybetoosensitive:theheat,


moisture,andpressureneededmightdamagethem.Asew-inmightbe
preferable.Generally,Pelloninterfacingsdonotneedtobepreshrunk.
ThefollowinglistincludessomePellon® Fabricshandyforuseinmaking

handbags,totebags,andpurses:
65 Pellon® Heavyweight Stabilizer: This stable sew-in nonwoven is
greattouseinbagswhereyouneedjustatouchoffirmness.
70 Pellon® Peltex® Ultra-Firm Stabilizer: This ultra-firm sew-in
nonwoven has the weight of cardboard but will bend and wash like
fabric. It is great to use two layers in the bottom of a bag or in the
handlestogivefirmnessandstability.It’salsogreatforfabricsthatyou
donotwanttofuse.
71F Pellon® Peltex® I - 1 Sided Fusible Ultra-Firm Stabilizer: This
one-sided fusible ultra-firm stabilizer can be used either on the outer
fabric or fused to your inner fabric to give you stability and a crisp
exterior. When multiple layers are fused together, it will give you a
veryfirm,stableproduct.
72FPellon® Peltex® II - 2 Sided Fusible Ultra-Firm Stabilizer: This
two-sided ultra-firm stabilizer can fuse two fabrics together while
givingwonderfulfirmnesstoyourbag—anditcanbeatimesaver.As
with the 70 and 71F, multiple layers will give you more stability and
firmnessyetwillstillbewashableanddrycleanable.
926Pellon®Extra-FirmStabilizer: This product is also a firm, stable
sew-inproduct.IthasaslightlysofterhandthanthePeltexseries,and
youmightpreferthisinbagsyouwanttoslouchabit.
808 Craft-Fuse® Iron-On: This thin, crisp iron-on lends support and
stabilitywithoutextraweightforsmallerhandbagsorpurses.
809 Décor-Bond Iron-On: Originally introduced for the home
decorating market, bag designers have taken a liking to its crisp but
lightsupportfortotebagsandpurses.
987FPellon® FusibleFleece:Thislightweight, low-loftfusiblefleece
is perfect to add some stability and firmness to a purse, backpack, or
tote bag without adding too much fluff. An absolute favorite of
designers!

988Pellon®Fleece:Thisightweight,low-loft,sew-infleececanadda
small amount of loft to your project. Used by itself, it will keep your
smallclutchsoft,butifyouaddastabilizerlike70or71For72F,you
willhavefirmnesswithlowloft.
TP970 Thermolam Plus® : This heavily needled, sew-in fleece is
wonderful for use in small luggage, backpacks, large tote bags. . .
anywhere you prefer a little extra loft. Use it in conjunction with a
stabilizerlike808or809,andyouwillgetagreatresult.
TP971F FusibleThermolamPlus®: The fusible version of the heavily
needled,polyesterfleeceisgreatforallkindsofbags.Useitaloneor
withanotherstabilizerforextrafirmnesswithbody.
SF101 Shapeflex® Woven Fusible: This 100 percent cotton woven
fusible is great for light- to medium-weight fabrics. Fused to the
outsidefabric,itgivesalightfirmnesstoyourpursewithoutbeingtoo
crisp.


FABRICANDTHREADTIPS
TIPSFORSEWINGWITHHEAVYTHREADS
1.Uselargeneedles:size18or20dependingonthicknessofthreadand
densityoffabric.
2.Useatopstitchingneedle.Thisneedlehasalargereyeanddeeperscarf
(thegrooveinthefrontoftheneedle)toaccommodatethethread
3.Lengthenthestitchto8-10stitchesperinchor4mm.Alargerthread
takesmoreroomtoformthestitch.Ashortstitchlengthwillresultin
poorlyformedstitchesandthreadjams.
4.Sewslowly.Thickerthreadsaresometimeslessflexibleandneedtobe
handledmorecarefully.

5.Increasetoptension.Ittakesmoretensionontheheavierthreadtopull
upthebobbinthread,especiallyifyouareusingtheheavierthreadin
thebobbinaswell.

RufflesandGathers
Useaheavythreadsuchastopstitchingorupholsterythreadtosewstitches,
gatheringstitchesespeciallyonthick,heavyweightfabricsorleathers.Itwill
notbreakwhenyoupullupthegathersandwillsupporttheweightofthe
fabric.

HandSewing
Threadssuchashandquiltingthreadandbuttonandcraftthreadaredesigned
forhandsewing.Theyhaveaglacefinishthatprotectsthemfromabrasion
whenbeingpulledthroughthefabric.

SewingButtons,Snaps,andOtherFasteners
Buttonandcraftthreadisstrongerthanall-purposethreadandisabetter
choiceespeciallyforabuttonthatisfunctional.

SewingStrapsandHandles


Useaheavy-dutythreadforaddedstrengthwhensewingonweightbearing
strapsandhandles.Besuretoswitchtoalarger-sizeneedle,astheseareasare
typicallythickerthanthebodyofthebag.

StitchLength
Theappropriatestitchlengthdependsonthepurposeofthestitchingand
fabric.Followthesegeneralrecommendations:
Generalpurposestitching:2.5mm(10-12stitchesperinch)

Topstitching:3-4mm(6-8stitchesperinch)
Basting,gathering,easing:4mm(6stitchesperinch)Reinforcement
stitching:1.5mm(15-20stitchesperinch)

SelectingThread
Forthebestcolormatch,buyyourfabricandthreadatthesametime.Select
threadthatisashadedarkerthanyourfabricbecauseitwillappearlighter
whenitissewnintothefabric.Forplaids,tweeds,andprints,selectthreadto
matchthepredominantcolor.

General
Whensewingthroughthickfabricsormultiplelayers,guidethefabricandlet
thefeeddogsdothework.Pushingorpullingcanbendtheneedle,whichcan
causeskippedstitchesandthreadbreakage.
Whensewingthroughmetallics,sequins,orfabricswithspecialfinishes,be
suretouseaneedlethatislargeenoughandchangeitfrequently.Thesespecial
fabricswearontheneedle,causingburrsorroughspotsthatwillcausethe
threadtobreak.

XPTHREADADVISOR
Usethechartonpage17,ahandyguidetonewDualDutyXPandotherthreads
manufacturedforfashionsewing,quilting,machineembroidery,home
decoratingsewing,craftsewing,andspecialembellishmenttechniques.It
providesinformationonmatchingthreadtodifferentfabrictypesandguides
toneedleselection.