IT training quench TruePDF january february 2019

XAD

NATIVE
LAND
OF
THE Cab to
MONASTRELL
100% Cabernet Sauvignon
Columbia Valley

put on your
table, period.
By keeping our roots, we follow our traditions. We have
commited ourselves to produce top-quality wines,
developing our genuine Monastrell grape variety.

AD TO
COME
MONDAY
“
”

Classic Cabernet Sauvignon. Currant, blackberry,
cigar box with touches of chocolate, cedar and
pencil lead. Full flavored & just so damn good.
I should raise the price.
- Charles Smith


QU

JANUARY/
FEBRUARY
2019
10

E

A TASTE OF DIVINE
CRAIG PINHEY

A quality revolution is taking over the German
sparkling scene. See who is leading the march.

NCH
20

THE OTHER KING

MICHAELA MORRIS

A light is shinning on Barbaresco
and it’s about time.

COLUMNS
6 | LAZY MIXOLOGIST CHRISTINE SISMONDO
How about a little ceviche in your cocktail?

8 | BON VIVANT PETER ROCKWELL

12 | SUB GI TIM PAWSEY
The “new and improved” BC wine map is rapidly taking shape.

16 | ASSIGNMENT: RENDEZVOUS WITH CARLOS.
TOD STEWART

I just got back from France. What wine-producing country should I go to next?

The changing path of Spain’s Bodega Motecillo.

9 | LAGER THAN LIFE ROBIN LEBLANC

It’s cold now, but a little sunshine in the kitchen
will help.

Weed is now legal, but what does that mean
for beer.

26 | BUYING GUIDE
The best wine, beer and spirits from around the
world, critiqued by our expert tasting panel.

34 | AFTER TASTE TONY ASPLER
So long Champagne Salon. It’s been good to
know you.
JOIN US IN THE CONVERSATION BY SUBSCRIBING NOW AT
WWW.QUENCH.ME/SUBSCRIBE-PRINT/

23 | IT’S SUMMER SOMEWHERE DUNCAN HOLMES

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back.quench.me
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019 3


LETTER FROM THE
WINE EDITOR

WWW.QUENCH.ME
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Aldo Parise

WINE EDITOR

Gurvinder Bhatia

MANAGING EDITOR

Lisa Hoekstra

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Tod Stewart

COLUMNISTS

Tony Aspler, Robin
LeBlanc, Peter
Rockwell, Christine
Sismondo
CONTRIBUTORS

Craig Pinhey, Tim Pawsey,
Michaela Morris, Duncan
Holmes

AFTER 25 YEARS IN THE WINE INDUSTRY AS A RETAILER, WRITER, CONSULTANT, JUDGE AND SPEAKER, MANY PEOPLE HAVE ASKED WHY I’VE DECIDED
TO START TAKING CLASSES THROUGH THE WINE &
SPIRIT EDUCATION TRUST (WSET), OFTEN REFERRED
TO AS THE GLOBAL STANDARD FOR WINE EDUCATION.

I’ve travelled to most major — and many minor — wine-producing regions,
visited thousands of wineries, and spoken and tasted with an even greater
number of winemakers and viticulturalists. The more I educate myself,
the more I realize how much more there is left to learn and how little I
actually do know. Part of what I love about wine is knowing that there is
always something new to learn.
2018 marked a year of firsts. I visited both China and Japan for the first
times. I judged my first Asian wine competition. I was the “nama jin” (aka
rookie) judge at my first sake competition, and I decided to formalize my
wine education to become a certified WSET instructor.
Our team of writers at Quench are among the most travelled and experienced in the industry. They travel the world, not so you don’t have to, but
to pique your interest to try something new. Or maybe to visit a wine region
or culinary destination to which you’ve never been. The beauty of food and

wine is in the diversity and discovery.
Use our writers’ experiences to guide yours. Don’t get stuck in the “I
only drink Bordeaux”, “Anything but Chardonnay”, “I don’t eat lamb” or
any other rut. Strive to seek out something new based on the descriptions and experiences of our writers. The joy of discovery is evident
through their words.
Don’t deny yourself the enduring pleasure of learning. Never say no to
tasting something new. Keep an open mind and palate when tasting, and
avoid generalizing when it comes to both wine and food. Remember that
our palates change over time, so something that may not have been to your
taste in the past may turn out to be your new favourite today.
Let us at Quench help make 2019 your year of firsts.

4 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019

TASTERS

Tony Aspler, Gurvinder
Bhatia, Tod Stewart,
Evan Saviolidis, Rick
VanSickle, Sean Wood,
Ron Liteplo, Harry
Hertscheg, Tim Pawsey,
Crystal Luxmore, Tara
Luxmore, Jonathan
Smithe
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Elvis Deane
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Ca n ned Peaches

Welcome to the fresh world
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Peach compote:
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- contains no preservatives or GMOs

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LAZY MIXOLOGIST CHRISTINE SISMONDO

TIGER’S MILK
Thanks to a certain gin company, which famously
marketed its delicious, easy-drinking and gorgeously-packaged gin as being “Not For Everyone,” that
phrase has lost a little of its meaning.
That’s a shame, since there are certain things that fit that
description perfectly, like, say, eating cricket snacks, worm
salt in a Margarita or, possibly best of all, slurping back leche
de tigre — the leftover marinade from Peruvian ceviche, translated as “tiger’s milk.”
We’ve probably already lost a few squeamish readers with
that and further explanations will only alienate more. But the
“milk” part of its name refers to the juice’s creamy appearance
that results from the raw fish proteins breaking down.
Still with me? Good. Because for those of us who aren’t
afraid of a little raw fish juice, the sour, spicy, salty, slightly-sweet and umami-rich leche de tigre is an extra-special
treat. It’s at least as exciting as the ceviche, itself, possibly
even more — practically the grown-up equivalent of licking the
wooden spoon after baking. Better yet, we’ve barely even begun
to explore its potential as a cocktail ingredient, although a few
bartenders, such as Simon Hooper of Toronto’s Rush Lane, are
trying to change that.
“To me, it’s all about sustainability,” says Hooper, one of the
bar’s founding owners. “I just hate waste and, with leche, you’ve
got something that you can use that’s packed full of flavour and
enzymes, so why wouldn’t you use it?”
That speaks to the origin of tiger’s milk, said to have started

as a “poor man’s food” that caught on as street vendors became
6 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019

more popular in Peru. Fast-forward to the present day, when
you’ll find tiger’s milk perfectly garnished and served up in a
shot glass as an amuse bouche in Lima’s swankiest restaurants.
What’s next? Cocktail bartenders are starting to catch on, too.
“It has a really nice, almost creamy texture to it, so when
you’re using it, you’re adding so much complexity to the drink,”
Hooper says. “Which is especially amazing for anything tomato-based, since it gives it more body, all the while getting extra
kick from the citrus and spice.”
Although there are people playing around with Tiger Sour
type cocktails, Hooper counsels starting out safe and working
tiger’s milk into your standard Bloody Mary, Bloody Caesar,
Michelada and Sangritas. The latter are those spicy-citrus
tequila chasers, for which he also gives us a recipe. “I’ve seen
some pretty brutal cocktails over the years, like someone once
offered me a clam chowder sour and I was, like, ‘No, I don’t
think so. Maybe another time.’”
Hooper suggests adding a half-ounce of leche de tigre to a
Bloody Mary and playing around with the base spirit. Instead
of vodka, have some fun with gin, tequila or mezcal. Other than
the really heavy sesame oil versions, almost any ceviche juice
will work, but he offers up this personal favourite of his, which
makes a great “milk,” absolutely perfect for making a top-notch
Sangrita “de Tigre.”

SANGRITA DE TIGRE

To get the leche, you have to make Simon Hooper’s ceviche first:

1/2
1/2
4

oz Walter Caesar Mix
oz leche de tigre*
dashes habanero sauce

Mix ingredients together and serve straight up in a shot glass,
along with a good shot of sipping tequila or mezcal. Enjoy the
pairing in small sips, alternating between the two — tequila first,
Sangrita next.

CEVICHE
250
125
28
28
22
1
10
3
1
1/2
2
1

g swordfish, chopped
g Hokkaido bay scallops, chopped

g cucumber, peeled and cubed
g Granny Smith apple, finely cubed
g shallots, finely cubed
garlic clove, finely chopped
g cilantro, julienned
oz fresh lime juice
oz fresh orange juice
tsp salty Paloma fiesta (grapefruit salt)
tsp rocoto (Peruvian hot sauce)
tbsp agave syrup

Mix all ingredients well, cover and refrigerate for an hour.
Strain, but keep the liquid. That’s the leche de tigre! ×
× VISIT WWW.QUENCH.ME/MIXED/ FOR MORE DRINK RECIPES


NEW

PREMIUM
SAKE

XAD

SAKE IN
FOLDER

Easy to drink, Manga sakeis a high quality Junmai.
Originating from the brithplace of sake in Japan and
produced by a famous and highly respected japanese
sake brewery dating from the 19th century Meiji era.

BON VIVANT PETER ROCKWELL

When you said “France,” did you mean all of it? While I get you wanting to add a few more stamps to your
passport, the French do hold the deeds to some of the oldest, not to mention most beautiful, real estate in the
wine world. So if you haven’t basked in the glory of a châteaux of Bordeaux’s Medoc, gazed upon Saint-Émilion from the Place du Clocher, walked the underground cellars in Champagne, drove Burgundy’s Route des
Grands Crus or spent even a second in the Loire, the Rhône and Alsace, you’ve got a lot more to see.
Given France the grand tour? Your next trip needs to be to Italy. With one hand on my well-worn copy
of The World Atlas of Wine, I’ll swear that no other culture combines food, wine and wine tourism like the
Italians. Your first stop should be the northern region of Veneto, the home of Valpolicella, Soave, most of
Prosecco, the wine city of Verona and a little town where the Bellini was invented called Venice. Three hours
away is Piedmont, which offers some of the most majestic vineyard views on Earth. Central Italy has Tuscany,
Umbria and Marche, and heading south you’ll marvel at the vineyards of Campania and Puglia. It’s a country
that, as a wine lover, is everything you’ll ever hope it will be.
While I could pledge my love for the Old World for paragraphs (forgive the miss, Spain and Germany),
the New World offers more than its fair share of scenic wonders. If California arguably invented the idea
that wineries could be tourist attractions, its coastal neighbours in Oregon and Washington have run with
the idea. Closer to home, vintners in BC, Ontario and Nova Scotia have each created their own winery-based
experiences that will make you proud to be a Canadian wine drinker.
If your vacation budget can cover some major time in the air, I can’t say enough about investing in a journey to New Zealand. Though Australia has its charms, when you land in New Zealand wine country you’ll be
quick to appreciate how appealingly different its liquor landscape is. A journey to South Africa will give you a
similar experience. I’m not just talking about the wine; geographically these countries look like no other.
Who’d I miss? Argentina, Chile, Portugal, Croatia? I’ve left a piece of my heart in too many wine regions to
mention. In the end, my advice is that anywhere wine is made is more than worth your time. ×
8 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019

ILLUSTRATION: MATT DALEY/SHINYPLIERS.COM

I just got back from France. What wine-producing country should I go to next?

LAGER THAN LIFE ROBIN LEBLANC

HIGH EXPECTATIONS
ANOTHER YEAR, ANOTHER THOUGHT EXPERIMENT:
WHAT WILL BE SOME OF THE EMERGING TRENDS IN THE
BEER INDUSTRY? Will there be a resurgence of a particularly

overlooked style? Will some hot, flashy new sour hit the market?
The mind reels. But one trend that does seem rather unavoidable for the future is the beer world’s budding relationship with
the cannabis industry.
That’s right, cannabis, also known as marijuana, weed, the
devil’s lettuce, Mary Jane, and of course reefer, has been captivating the interest of drinks companies long before legalization
throughout Canada in October 17th of last year. For instance,
Molson-Coors announced that it would be releasing a cannabis-infused beer in the next year. And one of the most notable
recent deals is from Constellation Brands, renowned drinks
producers and marketers that represent beer brands such as Corona, Modelo, and Ballast Point. The drinks giant took the risk of
investing in cannabis producers Canopy Growth in 2017 and has
since dropped billions into them, betting on what may turn out
to be a very prosperous future.
However, on a fairly smaller scale, craft breweries are also
smelling the distinctive smoke of opportunity coming from the
cannabis industry and seeing where they might fit in.
To be honest, everything seems very up in the air right now,
mostly filled with announcements of potential plans. Popular
Canadian brewery Steam Whistle told BNN Bloomberg in
November that they were “engaged in active discussions” with

cannabis producers throughout the country for a potential

investment or joint venture opportunity. Many breweries are
currently doing the same, trying to figure out what form a relationship with cannabis may take.
Others are a bit more certain and feel that the wave of the
future is cannabis beer, which at the moment has a loose definition to it. Some breweries might mean a beer that incorporates
the cannabis plant in the grains but with all the psychoactive properties removed. Others, like Province Brands, who
partnered with Toronto-based Lost Craft Beer among others,
mean to make a non-alcoholic beer brewed entirely with cannabis and no grains. Others also include a beer with THC/CBD
infused into the drink. Some drinks seem to go from interesting
and curious to something more in line with a cannabis-infused
carbonated water, but all might at least may have a good round
of sales when released.
If pressed for a prediction on where this will all go, I’m
afraid it’s too early to tell at the moment. Right now, we have
a bold new industry with a guaranteed chance of growth and
so many people are smelling the money and letting their early
adopter enthusiasm beat out the need for a solid plan. While I do
see amazing potential in beer and cannabis pairings, specially
branded strains for breweries, and especially THC/CBD-infused non-beer drinks, cannabis’ role in beer remains hazy.
We’ll just have to pause, have a beer or maybe light a joint,
and see where the trip takes us. ×
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019 9


BRAUNEWELL

A TASTE OF DIVINE
by Craig Pinhey
GERMAN WINE CONSUMERS DRINK A LOT OF SEKT, GERMAN
SPARKLING WINE, BUT MOST OF IT IS INEXPENSIVE, DRY TO
OFF-DRY BUBBLY. But it can be confusing. You see, Deutscher

Sekt can be made from all local grapes or from a blend of domestic
and foreign grapes, or even 100 percent foreign-base wine. As an
example, you’ve probably all had a glass of Henkell Trocken.
But there is a significant amount of quality, bottle-fermented
sparkling wine being made in Germany from local grapes. Officially called Winzersekt or Qualitätsschaumwein, the grapes
have to come from the winery’s own vineyards — although they
can farm out production (riddling, disgorging, bottling, et cetera). Many refer to it simply as Schaumwein, with schau meaning “show” and schaum translating as “foam” or “froth.”
For Sekt producers, 2018 was a strange vintage. It was very
hot and dry, resulting in a historic early harvest, taking place in
August for the first time ever. They were harvesting at Raumland
during our visit to their estate in Flörsheim-Deidesheim, in Rheinhessen. Raumland is referred to by some as “The God of Sekt.”
Indeed, their 2012 NV Brut was recently named the best Riesling Sekt in Germany. The winery is relatively small, producing
around 50,000 litres from 10 hectares of estate vineyards, 100
percent organic since 1990.
10 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019

Once you’ve tasted God’s wines, one wonders how the other
Sekthäuser compare.
On a visit to Strauch, a family-run operation in nearby Osthofen, it was clear that quality Schaumwein is not just the property of the Gods.
In 2011, Isabel Strauch-Weissbach and her husband, Tim
Weissbach, took over her parents Sekthaus. They produce a
range of sparkling wines, making approximately 250,000 to
300,000 bottles per year — including those for other wineries
— from a range of grapes, including Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Sylvaner, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Their style
is more straightforward and less complex (thus less expensive)
than Raumland’s.
Going through the region tasting these top-level traditional
method sparkling wines showed that Germany makes bubbly at
the highest level, equal to top versions from the rest of the world,

and available at fair prices. The variety is impressive, owing to
different philosophies regarding the use of malolactic fermentation with some wines and not others, and using Riesling at 100
percent or blending it with Pinot family grapes. There is no question that some producers are making wines from Champagne varieties that taste just like Champagne.


RAUMLAND TRADITION RIESLING BRUT 2012 ($26)

Judged Germany’s best Riesling Sekt this year. A
fresh and fruity bubbly but with nice, toasty notes.
A great example of Champagne-like Schaumwein
at a great price. Uses malolactic for creaminess and
an early pick for acidity. 6 g/l sugar. Terrific value.
RAUMLAND CUVÉE KATHARINA BRUT NATURE
2013 ($30)

Judged best Burgundy grape Sekt in Germany this
year. A blend of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier with
zero dosage. Fresh and crisp in style, even with full
malolactic. Partially fermented in old and new oak
barrels. Incredible value.
STRAUCH RIESLING EXTRA BRUT 40 MONATE
2012 ($30)

A creamy bubbly, with lots of stone-fruit flavours
and good length. Even though it’s Riesling, one
could mistake it for Champagne. Strauch normally
uses malolactic, except in really warm vintages,
such as 2018.
STREIT GRANDE CUVÉE 2014 ($45)

One of those rich, soft, heavily autolytic sparklers.
A blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot
Meunier, it has great texture and length. They disgorge 500 bottles approximately every 6 months.
This bottle was disgorged in October 2017 and
tasted in August 2018.

MARIE-LUISE, VOLKER AND
KATHARINA RAUMLAND

BARDONG CHARDONNAY BRUT 2014 ($45)

VAUX ROSÉ RÉSERVE 2015 ($40)

A special wine from grapes grown on the 23 ha Mariannenaue
vineyard, on an island in the Rhine, 10 km east of Bardong. It has
distinct apricot notes and fresh acidity. It’s very elegant. We also
tried the 2007 vintage, which had complex notes of dried fruit and
nuts, but still had life.

100% Pinot Noir, but from a selection of different clones. Made
with 20% malolactic, and 30% aged in old oak. It has an attractive
red fruit nose and is a bit toasty, with full texture. A bit creamy, but
with firm acidity. Aged 27 months on the lees.
VAUX ERBACHER MARCOBRUNN RIESLING 2014 ($60)

BARDONG ERBACHER HONIGBERG RIESLING EXTRA BRUT 2012 ($28)

Bardong only makes single-vineyard, single-grape wines, and
this Riesling really shows its heritage. It is very dry, with only 3
g/l dosage, and is very much in the crisp style, with zero malolactic. It spent 6 years on the lees, though, which gives it a light

citrus pastry note.

A famous single-vineyard bubbly from Riesling, grown about 5 km
west of the winery, close to the river in Hattenheim, on rich, weathered limestone. This is a rich, leesy, developed wine, with nutty
character and longer lees aging, and is recommended to be served
with slow-cooked meats. It’s lovely and complex.
VAUX ASSMANSHÄUSER PINOT NOIR 2014 ($40)

BARDONG ERBACHER HONIGBERG RESERVE BRUT 1998 ($26)

Perhaps it is the fact that they use no malolactic, but this still has a
lot of life. Lightly golden in colour, it has pleasant apple aromas and
flavours, and is not overly autolytic or oxidative.

Those of us who scoff at sweet, oaky sparkling Shiraz can turn to
this fabulous red bubbly for a much more satisfying experience. It’s
a dry red (3 g/l) made with long skin contact and no malolactic. It
has pure cherry on the nose and palate, tasting super ripe and yet
very dry. A uniquely wonderful taste experience.

SOLTER ROSENECK SINGLE VINEYARD RIESLING 2012 ($32)

A warm year so this wine has a roundness you don’t normally
expect from Riesling, especially since they use no malolactic. It is
fresh, but has a long, tasty finish. Solter’s all-women winemaking
team makes bubbly for 50 other wineries in addition to their own.

BRAUNEWELL RIESLING BRUT NV ($20)

This great value bubbly is aged 30 months on the lees. The bottle

we tried was disgorged in 2018. It’s a good example of a toasty
traditional method bubbly that still has freshness. ×
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019 11


SUB GI
by Tim Pawsey

The “new and improved” BC wine map is rapidly taking shape, as the pace of identifying and formalizing the province’s producing regions with greater specificity increases. The BC Wine Authority has
already expanded the list of BC Wine Regions, adding the Thompson Valley, Shuswap, Kootenays and
Lillooet to the existing Vancouver Island, Gulf Islands, Fraser Valley, Similkameen Valley, Okanagan
Valley regions and all-encompassing “British Columbia” designation.

Perhaps more significant, over the last two years, three areas
within one of the larger regions have been delineated and approved as “Sub-GIs” — or Sub-Geographic Indications — namely:
Golden Mile Bench (south of Oliver), Okanagan Falls and, most
recently, the Naramata Bench. Still in process at the time of writing, but widely expected to be confirmed soon, is Skaha Bluffs,
a total area of 365 hectares with 75 hectares of vineyards a few
hundred metres south of Penticton.
Less apparent to the casual observer is the exhaustive,
fact-finding process that must be undertaken to successfully
identify and ultimately establish each of these areas. It’s an exercise that, most agree, is critical to the continued evolution and
ongoing elevation of the BC wine industry.
A key player, consultant and soil specialist, Scott Smith has
been diligently documenting and analyzing soils throughout BC,
though mainly with emphasis on the Okanagan Valley. His reports form the backbone of the recommendations that inform
those who vote on proposals for new regions and Sub-GIs.
Hailed as a leading authority on the Okanagan Valley, Smith
says it’s important to understand the elements of terroir within
the valley and elsewhere, especially in relation to what he refers

to as the “glacial landscape,” which is comprised of transported
sediments. Along with the climate and specifics surrounding the
growing season, it’s the landscape that drives the fundamentals of
any given terroir — or the basis for a Sub-Geographic Indication.
Like others, Smith identifies the Okanagan’s alluvial fans as
critical to viticulture, not only for their soil and rock composition but also for the air movement they create. However, he also
notes that crucial to successfully establishing Sub-GIs is “an
element of pragmatism.”
While there have been a few voices of dissent, the voting results
so far have shown, in every instance, that the overwhelming majority of wineries and vineyard owners in the given areas were in
favour. In fact, a Sub-GI initiative must pass by at least a two-thirds
majority in order for it to go forward for government approval.
12 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019

Usually, though not always, objections have revolved around
the specifics of proposed boundaries. In the case of Golden Mile
Bench, there were exclusions based on elevation, both at higher and lower levels. However, in that instance, there were clear
distinctions between soil types on the bench lands surrounding
the alluvial fans, which underpinned the location of the perimeter, and those below it.
The Okanagan Falls Sub-GI extends south from the village of
Okanagan Falls to the northern shore of Vaseux Lake. It includes
“predominantly undulating glaciofluvial sands and gravels along
the east side of the Okanagan Valley.” The western boundary is
mainly consistent with the route taken by Highway 97, which
also marks the limit of suitable vineyard lands, as a flood plain
lies to the west side.
For Naramata Bench, there were a few objections raised in
regards to perceptions of more “red tape” and regulating the use
of the geographic term. That control, however, is very much intended to protect it from misuse, including by anyone from outside the area. While the leadup to the Naramata vote saw some
spirited opposition, in the final tally the initiative still passed by

a healthy margin of over 80 percent.
As to why the ongoing development of Sub-GIs has the industry fired up, part of the answer lies in what the process can
ultimately establish. The reports and proposals are detail driven and in depth, and add up to a truly thorough evaluation that’s
much more than a snapshot. They focus not only on all aspects of
terroir and viticulture but also present a detailed summary of the
status quo, including acreages under vine and the preponderance
of varieties being farmed.
It’s taken generations to identify the best wine-growing
regions everywhere else in the world so it should come as no
surprise that BC’s is an arduous and time consuming process.
However, the string of Sub-GI initiatives has unquestionably
injected new energy into the industry in ways that were not on
most people’s radar 10 or 20 years ago. The confirmation of this


“EVEN THOUGH IT STILL FEELS LIKE THE EARLY STAGES, IN THE INTERNATIONAL MARKET — JUST A FEW
YEARS AGO — WE WERE THE NEW KID THAT NO ONE
WANTED TO TALK TO. AND NOW WE’RE THE NEW KID
THAT EVERYONE WANTS TO TALK TO.” JOHN SKINNER
(SHOWN WITH HIS WIFE TRISH)

initial group seems likely to generate impetus for still more SubGI applications to be brought forward.
SOME POSSIBILITIES ARE FAIRLY OBVIOUS. Vancouver

Island’s Cowichan Valley is one. It’s already well under development, spearheaded by Blue Grouse winemaker Bailey Williamson. Even though he doesn’t anticipate any opposition, Williamson says it’s still important to reach out to people all over
Vancouver Island, in order to build consensus.
Here again, soil guru Scott Smith has been busy helping develop a proposal that was to be submitted by the end of 2018.
“When we started looking at the boundaries, we wanted to
draw them as broad as we could,” says Williamson.
“We wanted to make sure that where there is agricultural land

suitable, but as yet not under vine, we would draw the boundaries
around it. Scott’s research amounts to equal parts geology, equal
parts climate. The two combined will be the determining factor
of where the boundary is drawn,” he goes on to say.

Williamson sees nothing but the positive in establishing a
Cowichan Valley Sub-GI, which he hopes will encourage more
people in the region to grow grapes — especially Pinot Noir,
which is becoming a Cowichan hallmark thanks to a string of
warmer vintages.
Williamson suggests, “It’s important to isolate the high-quality parcels that can do well. It will also encourage more cross-pollination between winemakers — including those who have
worked internationally and now bring their ideas here. Everyone
benefits from that collective knowledge. There’s a lot to be gained
from playing in the bigger sandbox. It’s an exciting time...”
If the Sub-GIs have matured into adulthood, the province’s
nine identified wine regions have moved well beyond infancy,
with some strong indications as to what might lie ahead. For instance, the recently declared Thompson Valley area includes the
banks of the Thompson River reaching from Chase in the east,
Kamloops in the centre and Cache Creek to the south and west.
The current growing area, predominantly 500 metres above sea
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019 13


BAILLIE GROHMAN PINOT NOIR TERRACES 2017, CRESTON, CENTRAL KOOTENAYS ($27)

Forward notes of red and black cherry with some forest floor and spicy hints before a well-structured palate defined by bright
acidity and approachable tannins, followed by a pleasing savoury element and fresh finish.
CARSON PINOT NOIR 2016, NARAMATA VINEYARD, NARAMATA BENCH ($49)

From sandy loam over clay loam soils, on a fairly steep, southwest-facing slope. Whole-cluster pressed and aged 11 months in

one third new French oak. Lifted aromas of strawberry and red fruits with some earthy hints, followed by a supple, elegant
strawberry and cherry palate, wrapped in voluptuous acidity, with fine tannins, spicy undertones and excellent length.
CLOS DU SOLEIL ESTATE RESERVE 2014, KEREMEOS, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($59)

A classic Bordeaux blend with varieties vinified and matured separately, aged 15 months in French oak (31% new). Wild red and
blackberries on the nose with some earthy notes lead to a juicy, vibrant and layered palate, defined by a streak of savoury underpinned by slate and minerality with blackberry, mulberry and cassis notes, supported by good acidity, an excellent refined
tannin structure and a lengthy, schisty finish.
EMANDARE PINOT NOIR 2015, COWICHAN VALLEY, VANCOUVER ISLAND ($45)

Fermented and aged in neutral French oak, unfined and unfiltered. More signs of good things to come: very pure fruit expression with lifted red berries, medium-bodied palate with some earthy and forest floor hints and definite mineral streak.
FORT BERENS PINOT NOIR 2016, LILLOOET ($25)

A lighter-bodied Pinot but one that punches well above its weight. Primarily Lillooet estate fruit (74%) with 26% from Vernon’s
The Rise Vineyard. Aromas of wild red berries and spice before a well-balanced palate of strawberry and cherry. Good intensity, balanced mouthfeel and silky tannins, through a gently spicy and juicy finish.
HARPER’S TRAIL CABERNET FRANC 2016, THADD SPRINGS VINEYARD, KAMLOOPS, THOMPSON VALLEY ($25)

A lively, fruit-forward palate of raspberry, mulberry and mocha notes with a definite mineral streak in the mid-palate. Firm but
approachable tannins and a lengthy, schisty ending. Arguably the most impressive red variety from Kamloops so far.
HESTER CREEK THE JUDGE 2015, GOLDEN MILE BENCH ($50)

From one of the warmest vintages in recent years, made from some of the oldest plantings in the valley. A blend of Cabernet
Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon is aged for 2 years in 75% French and 25% American oak. Lifted notes of black and red
food announce a plush palate of mulberry, black cherry and vanilla with well-integrated tannins through a solid close.
MOON CURSER 2016 SYRAH, EAST OSOYOOS BENCH ($26)

From an excellent vintage, aged in new and used French and Hungarian oak with the majority in neutral barrels. Inky purple
in the glass with generous aromas of black fruit. Meaty and spice notes, with hints of leather and tobacco, preceding a plush,
mouth-filling palate of cassis, blackberry and anise notes. Supported by well-integrated tannins, well-managed oak and a
savoury edge through a lengthy close.
NOBLE RIDGE THE ONE 2015, OKANAGAN FALLS ($40)

A classic blend of 70/30 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir is whole-cluster pressed and cool fermented, with 28 months en tirage.
A lively stream of fine bubbles and creamy mousse, with notes of brioche and citrus, before a crisp but mouth-filling palate
supported by good acidity and a mineral streak through the close.
ROAD 13 BLIND CREEK VIOGNIER 2017, SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY ($19)

Vibrant stone-fruit and citrus notes, followed by a lush but clean, focused palate of honey, citrus and orange blossom, with
bright acidity and a generous, lingering finish.
SINGLETREE SIGGY SIEGERREBE 2017, FRASER VALLEY ($16)

All stainless-steel fermented and estate grown. Aromas of orchard and tropical fruits with mineral hints preface a palate of
pear, peach and apple with a slight zesty grapefruit edge, wrapped in juicy acidity through a lengthy, refreshing finish.
TIGHTROPE RIESLING 2017, NARAMATA BENCH ($19)

From the lower side of Naramata Road, partially whole-cluster pressed, fermented just off-dry. Upfront honey and orchard
fruits followed by a lively, citrus and tropical palate with layers of juicy lemon and lime wrapped in a very good fruit–acid balance with a streak of elegant minerality to close.
14 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019


NOAH, LAURA AND ANDREW ETSELL TENDING SINGLETREE'S VINEYARDS

level, is a relatively new shift that has really only become feasible
with the onset of milder winters.
While perhaps less of a risk, winter kill still represents a
threat for some varieties. Harper’s Trail, for one, trialled several
red vinifera before deciding which one made the most sense in
terms of quality — and which might not be so vulnerable to winter kill as others. In that case, it was Cabernet Franc, which, in
the right hands, has turned out to make some impressive wines.
Climate change is now a formidable player, with shifting
norms the rule rather than the exception. For instance, while

the Thompson River growing area is currently concentrated
mainly to the east of Kamloops, it’s important to note that in the
early 1980s there was at least one producing vineyard of note on
the Ashcroft benches, well to the southwest. Pioneering Harry McWatters purchased grapes from the Basque Vineyard to
make one of his first Chardonnays before it was wiped out in the
devastating freeze of 1985.
THE SIMILKAMEEN VALLEY BENCHES ARE ALSO RIPE
FOR A SUB-GI, especially as, in the broader context, the cur-

rent Similkameen region encompasses the entire watershed
of the Similkameen River Valley, which stretches west beyond
Princeton. As yet, there’s also no official action targeting the
South Okanagan, although the east Osoyoos benchlands, Black
Sage Bench and west Osoyoos benches are all general possibilities that will likely emerge.
To put it mildly, BC has been well behind the eight ball when
it comes to adopting a system of appellations and sub-appellations now commonplace across the wine world. As BC flexes its
export muscle (based on quality not volume), it’s becoming more

apparent that such a system, in harmony with leading wine-producing areas, is a necessity not an option.
Painted Rock owner John Skinner — a key mover behind the
Skaha Bluffs Sub-GI proposal — sees it this way: “We have to
show some conformity by international standards. Even though
it still feels like the early stages, in the international market —
just a few years ago — we were the new kid that no one wanted to
talk to. And now we’re the new kid that everyone wants to talk to.”
The Painted Rock owner was one of the first to see the potential in developing relationships from Beijing to Bordeaux. Working with renowned consultant Alain Sutre, Skinner has a strong
connection to the latter and now has listings on top wine lists in
that city, as well as in London.
Skinner has seen the reaction to Canadian wines shift from
curiosity to conviction that the Okanagan now ranks as a serious

producer. While wine geeks may get excited about an undiscovered region, that’s not enough, he insists.
A developed appellation system that “peels away the layers,
from Canada to the Okanagan and then specific areas,” says Skinner, “adds up to a wonderful coming of age initiative that’s going
to help us refine our messaging to the international community,
as well as to local wine consumers.”
“For us, Skaha Bench needs to be separate [from Naramata
and Okanagan Falls],” he says. “It really does have very specific
relevance to what makes it tick, and that’s the lake influence, as
well as our unique position. The sun goes down very late where
we are, through a ‘V’ in the hills.”
Skinner feels strongly that there’s an enormous collective
benefit from having that extra line on a label. He says, “It’s all
about engaging and respecting the consumer.” ×
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019 15


COUNTRY: SPAIN.
CITY: MADRID.
LOCATION: SAN ANTÓN MARKET.
DATE: THURSDAY, AUGUST 30, 2018
TIME: 11:45 PM.
ASSIGNMENT: RENDEZVOUS
WITH CARLOS.
by Tod Stewart

A soft breeze offers little respite from August’s sultry heat. Thursday night and the streets of
Madrid are alive. Dinner at La Cocina de San Antón — a fabulous open-air restaurant on the
roof of the San Antón Market — wrapped up (deliciously) some time ago. At close to midnight, the crowd is thinning … slightly. I’m hunkered down at the bar with a last glass of silky
Montecillo Reserva tinto — the wine that had accompanied my now-past repast. I’m waiting
for Carlos, whom I first met in Haro some six years ago. We had hit it off spectacularly then,

and had promised to stay in touch upon my leaving.

16 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019


Unfortunately, Carlos is one of few
words. Worse still, he rarely visits Canada, so his presence over the years has been
virtually non-existent. The opportunity to
meet up again after such a long absence
had me nervously checking my watch.
Suddenly, ushered in with a knowing
smile and a subtle nod from my bartender, Carlos appears. His bronze hue seems
to shimmer, and a subtle but captivatingly
familiar scent wafts towards me. Though
showing restraint, there’s no denying Carlos is here to offer an intense experience.
Carlos touches my lips. My tongue tingles …
Now, let’s just stop right there. This
is not as hot and heavy as it sounds. Carlos — more properly monikered Carlos 1
— is a brandy de Jerez, a spirit distilled
in the Sherry region of Spain and aged
using the same famed solera process
used to mellow the region’s eponymous
liquid claim to fame. Though I partook
in more than a few copitas of Spain’s glorious fortified wine, toured the cellars of
a legendary sherry bodega and was even
introduced to a sherry-based vermouth

(the hottest libation in Spain right now)
while “in country,” a merciless word
count, and a directive from an equally

merciless editor, caused my attention to
focus more narrowly on some of the finest red wines found on the Iberian peninsula. Which, as far as I’m concerned,
was a very good thing.
AT A TABLE IN A VAST VINEYARD
SPRAWLING OVER 800 HECTARES,

with the mountains of the Iberian System in front of me and an endless sea of
ripening grapes as my surroundings, I’m
in my element. Cool Montecillo Rosado
2017 is poured under a shade canopy
as the sun climbs into a cobalt stratosphere. Lunch is served: tender white
asparagus; rich, mildly piquant chorizo
and potato stew; and flaky, melt-in-your
mouth cod steeped in a vibrant tomato sauce. The wine, redolent of fresh
strawberry, cranberry, watermelon and
dried herbs, offers the ideal foil.
I’m fortunate to be seated with Rocío
Osborne, Brand Ambassador for Monte-

cillo estate, named for her family, who is
among the sixth generation of a family
whose winemaking history dates back to
1772. Who better to ask about the current
state of Spanish reds than someone who
actually makes the stuff ?
I asked what, in her opinion, were
some of the most exciting developments
in the field of her country’s red wines and,
specifically, those of her own winery, Bodegas Montecillo.
“In Spain, we have seen a great deal of

development in small and unknown areas
that have been rediscovered and now are
focusing on crafting high-quality wines.
The rise of certain wines that express a
very special character due to their terroir
and respectful winemaking techniques.
Before this, it was all about Rioja, Ribera
and Rueda. Now there are a lot of producers from these areas that don’t even belong to a denomination of origin area, and
are making amazing wines.
“In Montecillo, we have also been
identifying and selecting vineyards with
special characteristics that will make very
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019 17


“IN M
AND
TERIS
TION
WHE

MERCEDES GARCÍA RUPÉREZ, WINEMAKER
AT BODEGAS MONTECILLO

limited production wines that show perfectly the terroir where they come from.”
It’s no secret that Spain’s red wines —
and, in fact, all of the country’s wines — have
been continuously improving. Classic areas
like Rioja and Ribiera del Duero continue to
produce some of the world’s most coveted

wines. Places like Priorat and Toro have, for
some time now, been yielding blockbuster
reds, some of which have attained cult status. Bierzo and Ribera Sacra are breathing
new life into Mencia — an ancient, but until recently overlooked, red grape variety.
Regions like La Mancha, Yecla and Jumilla
— traditionally known for producing large
volumes of largely non-descript bulk wines
— are now producing large volumes of remarkably good tintos, some of which represent the world’s best bargains.
All of this is largely the result of an
influx of know-how and technology, as
well as constant improvements in vineyard management and a willingness to try
new things. Even if that means, in some
cases, looking to the past. Osborne notes

.
.
. 18

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019

that even established Rioja producers like
Montecillo are always experimenting.
“For us, there have been many changes,” she explains. “In the past, we used to
craft wines only from Tempranillo. Now
we are using all four of the varietals allowed by the Rioja region — Tempranillo,
Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano. Our
vineyard manager has worked very hard
to get the best of these varietals, including the development of a new software
program that can track and help control
the development of grapes of the different

vineyards we source from, which helps to
enhance the quality of the fruit.”
Though the regulations governing
which red grape varieties can be planted
in the vineyards of Rioja restrict them to
the four mentioned by Osborne (Sauvignon Blanc has recently been permitted
for the region’s white wines), those four
seem to offer almost limitless possibilities
to those producing regional red wines.
Tasting the 2012 Montecillo Edición
clearly shows the new faces of Rioja’s red

wines, especially the nuanced 22 Barricas 2010. Ripe, spice aromas of rich black
fruit, menthol, graphite and subtle white
pepper give way to a ripe, dense, complex
flavour tapestry of powerful, concentrated tobacco and dark plum. The emphasis
is decidedly on fruit and terroir, and much
less on what the region’s wines are often
famous for, namely, oak.
INTRODUCED BY BORDELAISE WINEMAKERS IN THE 18TH CENTURY who

fled their own phylloxera-ravaged vineyards in search of new possibilities, the
unmistakeable and pronounced vanilla
footprint imparted by oak barrels has long
been the most recognizable feature of Rioja’s red wines — for better or worse.
Today, the region’s more forward-looking producers are more judicious with the
application of oak, seeking to better integrate the resulting flavour into the wine’s
overall profile.
Thirteen metres beneath the crust of
the Rioja Alta region, I gaze out over a vast

MONTECILLO, WE HAVE ALSO BEEN IDENTIFYING
SELECTING VINEYARDS WITH SPECIAL CHARACSTICS THAT WILL MAKE VERY LIMITED PRODUCN WINES THAT SHOW PERFECTLY THE TERROIR
ERE THEY COME FROM.” ROCÍO OSBORNE

expanse of oak barrels (19,000 of them to
be precise). I’d seen similar vistas a few
years ago while visiting Bodegas Roda and
Lopez de Heredia in Haro. Seeing so much
oak, it’s hard not to think that wood might
still be a dominant factor in the flavour of
the red wines produced here. Sharing this
observation with Osborne elicited this response: “Oak is important, but a key point
for us is that the oak backs up the wine
and doesn’t overwhelm the fruit. Our aim
is to craft balanced wines, where the oak
nuances are clean and fresh, and the fruit
displays its varietal character.”
She notes that the barrels in the cellars
of Montecillo average two to three years in
age, and that racking (transferring of wine
to different barrels) and regularly cleaning the barrels helps the winery achieve
the oak/fruit balance it desires.
Of course, balance is what all winemakers seek. However, it’s not just a heavy
hand with oak that can turn a would-be
elegant Rioja reserva into a gloopy mess.
Mother Nature herself often throws a curveball, especially when it comes to heat.
Deniers of global warming might want
to chat with a grape grower or two working in regions where the harvest is now

happening routinely in August as opposed
to September. Sure, if you’re producing
in a cool climate like, say, Niagara, the

extra heat may equate to richer reds, but,
in most regions, more heat equals more
ripeness equals more sugar in the grapes
equals more alcohol in the wine. “And
more alcohol is bad?” you ask, eyebrows
raised. Well, yes, if balance is the key to a
stellar wine. (If it’s just alcohol you’re after, there’s this thing called vodka …)
“We don’t want to have overripe
grapes and 15 percent alcohol wines,” Osborne confirms. “For us, balance is key,
and for this reason, we strive to keep alcohol, ripeness and acidity under control,
with a very careful and strict control of
the vineyards right before harvest.”
Luckily for Rioja winemakers like Osborne, geography works in their favour
when it comes to tempering heat and,
as an outcome, alcohol. Most Montecillo wines come in at around 13.5 percent
ABV, decidedly low proof in an oenological world where 14.5 percent is the new 12.
With a final swirl, sniff and swig,
Carlos disappears, leaving but a warm
memory in my veins. At some point tomorrow (actually, later today), Spain
will also be but a warm memory — a
memory of Madrid, Jerez, Cadiz, Seville,
Bilbao and Logroño; of fantastic food,
incredible vistas and the sensational red
wines of Rioja. ×

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JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019 19


THE OTHER
KING

by Michaela Morris

EVERY SUMMER, I HEAD TO THE HILLS OF BAROLO FOR
COLLISIONI, AN AGRI-ROCK FESTIVAL MASHING UP MUSIC, LITERATURE AND WINE. As a result, I have been able to

take in concerts by Sting, Elton John and Depeche Mode. Really,
though, I’m there for the libations. Barolo is the headliner but the

hit list includes wines from every corner of Italy — with one glaring exception, Barolo’s neighbouring region of Barbaresco. So it
caused quite a stir this past summer when a troupe of Barbaresco
producers sashayed into Barolo’s castle to present a tasting completely dedicated to Piedmont’s “other” great Nebbiolo wine. It
was like the Anglicans taking over the Vatican.
In truth, there are a plethora of fantastic Nebbiolo-based
denominations beyond Barolo. Roero, Gattinara, Boca and
Lessona are all rising stars. Despite Barbaresco being better
known, it is still overshadowed by the towering giant of Barolo.
A third of the size, a third of the production levels and even a
third of the land costs, Barbaresco counts approximately 750
hectares producing 4.8 million bottles annually with top cru
sites estimated at €700,000/ha. That is, if you can actually find
land for sale. While bottles don’t necessarily sell for a third
of the cost of a Barolo, most Barbaresco is far less expensive.
Quality is where the disparities end.
20 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019

“Barbaresco is a first among equals,” pronounces author and
Italian wine authority Dr. Ian D’Agata who presides over this
milestone seminar. “It’s the other king of Piedmont,” he continues, refuting Barbaresco’s feminine stereotype. Both are made
exclusively from Nebbiolo and they can be difficult to tell apart
when tasted blind. Intense and evocatively perfumed with an
assertive structure combining searing acidity and firm tannins,
they are among Italy’s most complex, age-worthy wines. Distinguishing between the two, D’Agata says: “Barbaresco is more
graceful in texture and typically gives a less tannic wine.”
Barbaresco’s differences start with her hills. With most vineyards sitting between 150 to 350 metres, they are lower lying,
softer and less steep than Barolo’s. But they are no less stunning.
Driving around the region feels like riding the ocean’s waves. The
roads twist and turn to reveal one magnificent site after another,
all of varying aspects. Furthermore, Barbaresco sits closer to the

Tanaro River than Barolo, resulting in a gentler microclimate,
yet a greater abundance of Piemonte’s signature mysterious fog.
Digging deeper, soil is another factor. Mainly of Tortonian
origin, Barbaresco’s blue grey marls are rich in magnesium and
manganese and tend to produce earlier maturing wines. While
Barolo equally lays claim to Tortonian-era dirt as well, it also


RIZZI BARBARESCO DOCG NERVO 2015 ($45)

Treiso’s Nervo cru is unique in Barbaresco. The soil has
Serravallian elements — more sand and less clay — and the
slope is impossibly steep. Gorgeous aromas of pure cherry
and strawberry waft from the glass. While this wine can
be a bit bony in cool years, the generous 2015 vintage has
given it just enough padding to balance the nervous acidy
and linear tannins. Brilliant texture, energy and brightness!
RIZZI BARBARESCO DOCG PAJORÈ 2015 ($50)

Within the township of Treiso, Pajorè sits at lower altitudes
and is closer to the Tanaro River than Nervo. The two wines
are crafted in the same manner, aging in large Slavonian
botte followed by concrete tanks to highlight the terroir.
Richer and fleshier than the Nervo, though still focused,
this wine is deliciously accessible now but that lingering
finish promises at least a decade of drinking pleasure.
ADRIANO MARCO E VITTORIO BARBARESCO DOCG
BASARIN 2015 ($35)

Basarin typically gives bigger wines, which Michela

Adriano calls strong yet refined. Fragrant rose and violet
intertwine with balsamic nuances. Firmly tannic with plenty
of layers and a minerally finish, it will need a couple of
years to come around. Excellent value!
ALBINO ROCCA BARBARESCO DOCG RONCHI 2014 ($70)

This fourth-generation estate is run by three sisters: Daniela,
Monica and Paola. The family’s most representative site is
Ronchi, a small, homogenous southeast-facing cru within
the commune of Barbaresco. This vintage offers plenty of
freshness without sacrificing complexity. Seductively earthy
notes are punctuated by mint and fennel. Elegantly crafted
with a tangy backbone and rather sneaky long tannins.

boasts a significant portion of older soils formed in the Serravallian period. Less compact and less fertile, they are associated
with the unyielding wines from the Serralunga township — the
epitome of Barolo’s powerful, backward image. Barbaresco’s
more precocious disposition is reflected in the denomination’s
aging requirements — two years as opposed to Barolo’s three.
Barbaresco and Barolo are sufficiently different that they
should be considered independently, particularly when it comes
to vintage. 2014 was challenging for both but Barbaresco managed to dodge the hail that devastated Barolo. It also endured less
rain, with none in the weeks leading up to harvest. Barolo was not
so lucky. Conversely, in the highly touted 2010 vintage, it is arguable that Barolo has the edge over Barbaresco.
Rather than expounding on the differences between these
equally noble peers, it is far more fascinating to explore the diversity simply within the small zone of Barbaresco. Like Barolo (and comparable to Burgundy or Bordeaux), Barbaresco is
made up of separate communes — four in total. The township
of Barbaresco is the most famous, having given its name to
the greater region. Some of the most complete and profound
Barbaresco wines hail from here. By comparison, D’Agata describes wines from the commune of Neive as bigger and fleshi-

COLLA BARBARESCO DOCG RONCAGLIE 2014 ($60)

Roncaglie is a south-facing amphitheatre sitting on the
first hill within the Barbaresco commune, right next to Gaja’s famed Costa Russi. Cinnamon and pepper offset red
berries and pretty florals with fine, velvety tannins holding
the palate together seamlessly.
ORLANDO ABRIGO BARBARESCO DOCG MONTERSINO
2013 ($60)

A lesser-known but up-and-coming cru. Orlando Abrigo’s
wine is aged in a combination of barriques and tonneaux
for 18 months and is still showing some toasty oak. A sturdy wine that offers sweet liquorice, raspberry and smoketinged herbs at its core.
CA’ DEL BAIO BARBARESCO RISERVA DOCG ASILI 2013 ($55)

With a southwestern exposition and compact soil, it yields
deep, profound wines. Aged for a full 36 months in used barriques and a further year in the bottle, this Riserva is layered,
concentrated and long with plenty of life ahead. Haunting
underbrush aromas hint at truffles with notes of wild berries
and fragrant herbs chiming in. Firm yet silky tannins give
support to the dense succulent fruit. Truly stunning!
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019 21


DANIELA AND PAOLA ROCCA, CARLO CASTELLENGO
AND MONICA ROCCA FROM ALBINO ROCCA

er whereas those from San Rocco Seno d’Elvio are “easy to understand with lots of early appeal.” Finally, Treiso is farthest
from the Tanaro River, experiencing a more rigid microclimate. It also boasts some of the highest vineyards in Barbaresco, which give steelier, more austere wines.
“Nebbiolo is a grape that expresses differently depending on

the vineyard site. So, to generalize, you lose a lot,” declares Claudia Cigliuti, whom I visited just prior to Collisioni. This is one of
the reasons why the Barbaresco region is further broken up into
66 crus. These legally recognized subzones are officially known
as Menzioni Geografiche Aggiuntive (MGA), which translates as
“Additional Geographical Definitions.” Colloquially referred to
as crus, this terminology is a slight misnomer. A “cru” Barbaresco
is not necessarily higher quality than one that comes from an assembly of sites. Rather, it is a geographical reference and ideally
the wine should be an expression of its specific site.
The side-by-side comparison of a dozen crus at Collisioni’s
Barbaresco invasion bore witness to the region’s distinct terroirs. Siblings Enrico and Jole Dellapiana of the Treiso-based
Rizzi estate, who spearheaded the encounter, demonstrated the
distinction between terroris with their separate cru bottlings
of Pajorè and Nervo. Enrico could easily be mistaken for a basketball player rather than a winemaker. And, as shooting hoops
is indeed his second passion, he likens Pajorè to Lebron James
and Nervo to Kevin Durant. “James, like Pajorè, plays with more
excessive physical power and force combined with a big personality,” he explains. “Durant is like Nervo, great elegant and grace.”
For basketball novices like myself, his sister Jole’s analogy is
much more comprehensible — think Brigitte Bardot versus Audrey Hepburn. Alas, this evokes Barbaresco’s female typecasting.
22 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019

I would not deign to label Barbaresco feminine for many
reasons, yet the seminar left an indelible womanly impression. Aside from Enrico Dellapiana, the crew was dominated
by strong, dynamic women with a contagious enthusiasm for
their land, their work and wine. Valentina Grasso spoke on behalf of the Ca’ del Baio estate. She, along with her sisters Paola
and Federica, represent the next generation of this 28-hectare
property. They operate holistically without a strict division of
responsibilities. The choice to work at the family estate was
born spontaneously, Grasso explains. “From the time we were
small, we have been breathing this atmosphere of the winery
and vineyard,” she says. “We always liked it so it was easy to

choose to study at the oenology school.”
Like Grasso, Michela Adriano at Adriano Marco e Vittorio
grew up on the family property. In her early twenties, she has
been working at the estate officially since 2014. Her first highly
important contribution was to establish a much needed online
and social media presence for the winery but now she is learning
all facets of production and the business. “Women have always
been present in wine but unfortunately were hidden. They didn’t
appear as important figures,” says Adriano. “I am happy that this
world is giving them the value they deserve, allowing them to
emerge from the shadows.”
Barbaresco is in good hands with the women — and men
— currently at the helm. It also represents a savvy buy next to
Barolo. I don’t expect it will fly under the radar for much longer
though. Buy up while the getting is good. Besides the underrated 2014 vintage, the ripe and generous 2015 wines are currently making it onto shelves with the thrillingly nervy and precise
2016 wines hot on their heels. ×


IT’S SUMMER

SOMEWHERE!!
by Duncan Holmes

VEGETABLE AND COCONUT
MILK SOUP

If kept covered in the refrigerator, this delicious
soup can be made several hours ahead. Unfortunately, this recipe is unsuitable for freezing.

Right now, the garden really isn’t a garden. It’s just earth,

quietly sleeping in the February cold. There are still clues
as to what it once was, and my imagination is already
suggesting what it soon might be.
Last season’s tattered tomato plants are scattered
about — and there are even a few sodden-frozen tomatoes that never even became more jars of chutney
as fall closed in. Christmas lights that never went out,
half a dozen bright orange peppers are also hanging in.
At this time of year, as I impatiently poke around
in the cold at the fallow beds, and visualize the crops
of spring and summer, I can hear The Mamas & the
Papas, trapped on North America’s cold east coast,
longing for, and dreamin’ of the warmth of California.
“All the leaves are brown,” they sang, “and the sky is
grey; I’ve been for a walk, on a winter’s day. I’d be safe
and warm, if I was in L.A.”

1
1
2
1
1 1/4
150
1
2
2
1
230
425
1

tbsp oil
medium onion, chopped
small fresh red chillies, chopped
tsp fresh ginger, grated
cups water or chicken stock
g can coconut milk
cup milk
tsp shrimp sauce
tsp light soy sauce
tsp lemon pepper
g can water chestnuts,
drained and sliced
Bunch of bok choy, finely chopped
g can straw mushrooms
(or substitute fresh)
small red pepper, finely chopped

Heat the oil in a large saucepan, then add the
onion, chillies and ginger. Cook over medium
heat for about 2 minutes (or microwave on high
in a microwave-safe dish for about 3 minutes),
or until onion is soft. Add the remaining ingredients and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover
and simmer for 20 minutes before serving.
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019 23


CRISPY DUCK
SALAD

SERVES 4 TO 6

Super Vancouver chef and friend David Hawksworth offered
this full-of-flavour recipe. It’s loaded with the kind of creativity that has made his restaurant Hawksworth, opened
in downtown Vancouver in 2011, a multiple-award-winning restaurant. (And if you take an international Business Class flight with Air Canada, you will be served one
of Hawksworth’s signature dishes.) To save time, you can
purchase already cooked barbecue Pekin duck at most Asian
supermarkets, which is where you’ll also find crispy onions.

1
2
2
400

Half a Pekin Duck
tbsp five-spice powder
star anise
Half an orange, peeled and sliced
3-inch knob of ginger, peeled and sliced
cloves garlic, sliced
ml canola oil, for frying

SOY AND GINGER VINAIGRETTE

75
50
25
1

ml grapeseed oil
ml sesame oil

ml soy sauce
tbsp, ginger, peeled and finely grated
with a microplane
Juice of 1 lime

DUCK DRESSING

200
25
25
10
1

ml ketchup
ml honey
ml soy sauce
ml sesame oil
Juice from half an orange
tsp black sesame seeds

24 JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019

FOR THE SALAD

180
1

1
18
1

g watercress, washed and spun
carrot, peeled and cut into a fine julienne
or ribbons using a spiralizer
Half of a daikon, 4 to 5 cm in diameter,
peeled and cut into a fine julienne
or ribbons using a spiralizer
medium purple beetroot, peeled and cut into
a fine julienne or ribbons using a spiralizer
g crispy onions
tsp black sesame seeds
Handful pomegranate seeds

1. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Season the duck with the
five-spice powder and salt. Place the garlic, star anise,
ginger and oranges slices in a roasting pan. Place the
duck on top.
2. Roast for 45 minutes, until the skin is golden brown
and crispy. While the duck is roasting, prepare the vinaigrette and duck dressing by whisking together the ingredients for each recipe in a separate bowl.
3. Remove the duck from the oven and rest on a wire rack
until it’s cool enough to handle. Carve the duck and cut the
breast meat into 1/4 cm thick slices. Pull the leg meat into
bite-sized pieces. Set aside for frying.
4. Add the canola oil to a large pot and heat the oil to
350°F. Do not fill the pot more than half full. Fry the sliced
duck until crispy, approximately 1 to 1 1/2 minutes. Toss in
the duck dressing.
5. Mix the watercress, carrots, beets and daikon with
some of the soy and ginger vinaigrette. Divide the salad
between the serving plates or arrange on a serving platter.

Place the crispy fried duck on top and garnish with black
sesame seeds, pomegranate and crispy onions.


OYSTER AND CHORIZO STEW WITH
SMOKED TOMATOES
SERVES 4

500

CHICKEN PROVENCE
SERVES 4

I picked up this recipe at a cooking school in
Vancouver one evening when it was presented by
Caren McSherry, a very clever cook.

900
1
8
1/4
1/2
2
1
1
1

g chicken pieces, skin removed
Olive oil, for frying
large onion, finely diced

Flour, for dredging
whole garlic cloves, peeled
cup morels, soaked in water
cup mix of cepes and boletus,
soaked in 2 cups of white wine
tbsp undiluted chicken bouillon cube
cup button mushrooms, sliced
cup heavy cream
bunch parsley, finely chopped,
for garnish

1. Wash and dry the chicken. Heat just enough oil
to cover the bottom of a pan, then soften the onion in
the oil. Remove and set aside.
2. Add more oil to the pan for frying. Dredge the
chicken pieces in the flour and brown evenly in the
pan, adding more oil as needed. Remove the cepes
and boletus from the white wine and set mushrooms aside.
3. When the pieces are brown, transfer to a roasting
pan (with a lid). Deglaze the pan with the white wine
in which the cepes have been are soaking. Add the
onion, garlic, all the mushrooms and chicken bouillon to the pan. Let simmer a few minutes, then pour
sauce over the chicken pieces.
4. Put the lid on the roasting pan and bake at 350°F
for one and a half hours. Transfer the chicken pieces
to a serving dish, cover and keep warm. Meanwhile,
remove the mushrooms from the pan with a slotted
spoon and set aside.
5. Remove the roasted garlic cloves and purée.
Bring the juices remaining in the plan to a boil, then

add cream and the pureed garlic. Adjust the seasonings, then return the mushrooms to the pan and pour
the cream sauce over the chicken. Sprinkle with
parsley before serving.

1
2
1/2
3
1
1/4
3
1
1
1/2
1

ml oysters, drained
Flour, for dredging the oysters and
thickening the stew
Vegetable oil, for frying
Salt and ground black pepper
link dry-cured spicy chorizo
sausage, diced
tsp olive oil
onion, diced
cloves garlic, minced
carrot, diced
Half a leek, diced
Half a sweet red pepper, diced
cup sweet corn, roasted

Roma tomatoes, peeled, seeded
and lightly smoked (optional)
pinch flour
tbsp tomato paste
tsp fennel seed, crushed
cup fish stock
Cayenne (optional)
Fresh chopped parsley and
garlic toast, for garnishing

1. Season the oysters with salt and black pepper.
Lightly dredge them in flour and pan-fry in vegetable
oil until they are lightly golden brown.
2. Remove the oysters from the pan and let them
drain well. Halve them and set aside.
3. To make the stew, sauté the diced chorizo in olive
oil until slightly browned. Remove from the pan,
reserving as much of the drippings as possible.
4. Add the onion and garlic, and sweat them until
transparent. Add the carrot, leek, sweet pepper, corn,
and tomatoes, and continue sautéing.
5. When the vegetables are a little soft, sprinkle
enough flour overtop only to coat the vegetables.
Stir in the tomato paste and fennel seed. Remove the
pan from the heat and add the fish stock to achieve a
soup-like consistency.
6. Let the stew simmer for 20 minutes more, or until
the vegetables are tender. When the stew is ready, add
the oysters, simmer for another couple of minutes.
7. Correct the seasoning, adding a little cayenne

if more spiciness is desired. Add some chopped
parsley and serve in soup bowls garnished with
garlic toast. ×
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2019 25