TẬP ĐOÀN DỆT MAY VIỆT NAM
TRƯỜNG CAO ĐẲNG KINH TẾ -KỸ THUẬT VINATEX TP. HCM
GIÁO TRÌNH
MƠN HỌC: TIẾNG ANH CHUN NGÀNH SỢI DỆT
NGÀNH: CƠNG NGHỆ SỢI, DỆT
TRÌNH ĐỘ: CAO ĐẲNG
Ban hành kèm theo Quyết định số:
của i u tr ng r ng ao đ ng
/QĐ-... ngày … tháng .... năm …
ng ngh hành phố
h inh.
TP.HCM, năm 2014
2
Unit 1: Knowledge about Textile Fibers
TUYÊN BỐ BẢN QUYỀN
Tài liệu này thuộc loại sách giáo trình nên các nguồn thơng tin có thể được phép
dùng ngun bản hoặc trích dùng cho các mục đích về đào tạo và tham khảo.
Mọi mục đích khác mang tính lệch lạc hoặc sử dụng với mục đích kinh doanh thiếu
lành mạnh sẽ bị nghiêm cấm.
LỜI GIỚI THIỆU
iáo trình Tiếng nh chuyên ngành sợi dệt được biên soạn theo chư ng trình mơn học
“Tiếng nh chuyên ngành sợi dệt Ngành ông nghệ s i dệt hoa ông nghệ dệt may –
Trư ng ao đ ng inh tế –
thu t inatex TP ồ hí Minh. o phục vụ cho học t p c a sinh
viên ngành sợi – dệt nên nội dung c a giáo trình được biên soạn t p trung vào quy trình cơng
nghệ tiền xử l các loại v t liệu dệt được sử dụng ph biến hiện nay thêm vào đó là nh ng lưu
để đạt được hiệu quả và cho chất lượng t t khi áp dụng các quy trình cơng nghệ tiền xử l cho
m i loại v t liệu được đ c kết t th c tế tại các doanh nghiệp trong nh ng n m qua.
Ngoài ph n “M đ u trình bày tóm t t về d y chuyền cơng nghệ hồn tất vải mục tiêu và
ngh a chung c a Tiếng nh chuyên ngành sợi dệt yêu c u về chất lượng nước trong hoàn tất
sản ph m dệt các nội dung c n lại c a iáo trình bao gồm 2 chư ng:
o hiện nay c n có s khác nhau về việc sử dụng thu t ng trong ngành dệt – nhuôm, mặc
dù đã rất nhiều c g ng trong quá trình biên soạn song khơng thể tránh được thiếu sót. h ng tơi
mong nh n được s góp c a bạn đọc để giáo trình ngày càng được hồn thiện.
Mọi kiến đóng góp xin g i về địa ch
ộ môn ông nghệ sợi dệt hoa ông nghệ dệt
may Trư ng ao đ ng inh tế thu t inatex TP Hồ Chí Minh s 586 ha ạn
n
phư ng Linh Đông Qu n Th Đức TP ồ hí Minh.
Tác giả
M CL C
UNIT 1: Knowledge about Textile Fibers
trang 2
UNIT 2: Natural Cellulosic Fibers
trang 6
UNIT 3: Natural Protein Fibers
UNIT 4: Manufactured Fibers
trang 12
trang 16
2
Unit 1: Knowledge about Textile Fibers
UNIT 5: Synthetic Fibers
UNIT 6: Fiber Properties
UNIT 7: Knowledge about fabrics
trang 20
trang 32
trang 38
GIÁO TRÌNH MƠN HỌC/MƠ ĐUN
Tên mơn học/mơ đun: Cơng nghệ tiền xủa lý sản phẩm dệt
Mã mơn học/mơ đun: MH17
Vị trí, tính chất, ý nghĩa và vai trị của mơn học/mơ đun:
- ị trí
- Tính chất
- Ý ngh a và vai tr c a môn học/mô đun
Mục tiêu của môn học/mô đun:
- Về kiến thức
- Về k n ng
- Về n ng l c t ch và trách nhiệm
Nội dung của môn học/mô đun:
Unit 1: Knowledge about Textile Fibers
It’s important to understand fibers and their
performances because fibers are the basic unit
of most fabrics. Fibers contribute to the
aesthetic appearance of fabrics; they influence
durability, comfort and appearance retention;
they influence the care required for fabrics; and
they influence the costs. Fibers must have
sufficient strength, pliability, length, cohesiveness to be spun into yarns.
3
Unit 1: Knowledge about Textile Fibers
Textile fibers have been used to make cloth for several thousand years. Until 1885, when
the first manufactured fiber was produced commercially, fibers were produced by plants
and animals.The fibers most commonly used were wool, flax ,cotton and silk.
Textile process –spinning, weaving, knitting,
dyeing and finishing of fabrics were developed
for natural fibers.
These
traditional
modified
for
processes
manufactured
have
been
fibers.
New
processes have been developed specifically for
manufactured fibers.
Fiber properties contribute to the properties of a fabric. For example, strong fibers
contribute to the durability of fabrics; absorbent fibers are good for skin – contact apparel
and for towels, flame- retardent fibers are good for children sleepwear protective
clothing.
I.
Vocabulary and terminology
A – Keyterms and Textile terminologies
fiber: xơ sợi
spun: kéo sợi
performance: sự hoạt động
yarn: sợi
fabrics: vải
clothes: vải
aesthetic appearance: vẽ mỹ quan bề ngoài
manufactured fiber: sợi nhân tạo
durability: độ bền lâu
wool: len
comfort: sự ti n nghi
cotton: bông
flax: xợi lanh
plants: cây cỏ
silk: tơ lụa
processes: qui trình
appearance retention: giữ lại vẻ bề ngồi natural fibers: xơ sợi tự nhiên
của vải
absorbent fibers: xơ ngấm n ớc
4
Unit 1: Knowledge about Textile Fibers
fiber properties: t nh chất của xơ sợi
spinning : kéo sợi
care: sự chăm sóc
cohesiveness: t nh kết d nh
costs: giá
dyeing: nhuộm
length: chiều dài
finishing: hoàn tất
pliability: t nh gấp đ ợc
skin –contact apparel: vải tiếp xúc với da
strength: độ bền
(quần áo)
towels: khăn tắm
flame-retardent fibers: xơ chống lửa (kh ng
sleepwear protective clothing: quần áo ngủ cháy)
an toàn
weaving, knitting: d t vải (d t thoi, d t kim)
B – Comprehension
1. Why is it important to understand fibers and their performances?
2. Give some examples of the influence of fibers on fabric?
3. How long have textile fibers been used to make cloth?
4. What are the two kinds of materials used to produce fibers?
5. Name traditional textile processes.
6. Give some examples of fiber properties?
C - True/ false
1. They produced fibers by plants and animals.
2. Wool, flax, cotton and silk were the first manufactured fibers.
3. The traditional textile processes were developed for natural fibers.
4. Fiber properties contribute to the properties of a fabric.
5. Fabrics are the basic unit of most fibers.
II - Grammar:
5
Unit 1: Knowledge about Textile Fibers
1. The simple past in passive form.
was / were + past participle
e.g.: Fibers were produced by plants and animals.
The first manufactured fiber was produced in 1985.
2. The present perfect in passive form.
have / has + been past participle
e.g.: Textile fibers have been used to make cloth for several thousand years.
New processes have been developed specifically for manufactured fibers.
Note: The passive is common in scientific writing where the action described is felt to be
more important than the actors.
III. Exercise
Put the following sentences into passive voice.
1. We have used it for several thousand years in China.
2. His boss has transferred him to another department.
3. The newspapers reported the event immediately.
4. They produced fibers by plants and animals.
5. They have constructed these houses quickly.
6
Unit 2: Natural Cellulosic Fibers
Unit 2: Natural Cellulosic Fibers
1/ Cotton
Cotton is the most important apparel fiber. In
1990 cotton met 49% of total world fiber
demand.
Cotton has a combination of properties –
pleasing
appearance,
comfort,
easy
care,
moderate cost and durability- that make it ideal
for warm-weather clothing; active sportswear;
work-cloth; upholstery; draperies; arearugs; towels and bedding.
Cotton is an important part of many blended fabrics. The cotton spinning and weaving
industry began in India.
Cotton classification describes the quality of cotton in terms of grade; staple length; and
character. Fiber length includes short-staple (0.6-2-3cm); medium-staple (2.3 -2.87cm);
long-staple (2.87-3.5cm); extra-long staple (>3.5cm). Grade refers to the color of the fiber
and the absence of dirt, loaf matter, and seed particles. The best quality grade is lustrous,
silky, white and clean. Color of cotton is ranged from white to yellow. Character refers to
maturity and smoothness of fibers within bale.
2/ Flax
Flax is one of the oldest textile fibers. The term
linen refers to the fabric made from flax.
Today flax is a prestige fiber as the result of its
limited production and relatively high cost.
The unique and desirable characteristics of flax
7
Unit 2: Natural Cellulosic Fibers
are its body, strength and thick- and-thin fiber bundle which give good texture to fabrics.
The main limitation of flax is low resiliency. Flax has high natural luster, high moisture
regain (12%) and is a good conductor of heat , so it makes an excellent fabric of warmweather wear.
3/ Ramie
Ramie is known as a grasscloth. It has been
used for several thousand years in China.
Ramie is long, lustrous and fine. It is one of the
strongest natural fibers known. But ramie has
some disadvantages; it is stiff and brittle,
lacking resiliency. Ramie is used to make
sweaters, shirts, blouses and suiting. It is also
used in blends with cotton, wool to make ropes, nets, auto upholstery, hanknotes, and
cigarette paper.
4/ Jute
Jute is the cheapest textile cellulosic fibers. It is grown
throughout Asia, chiefly in India and Bangladesh. Jute
is used for carpet backing, sugar bagging, rope and
cordage.
8
Unit 2: Natural Cellulosic Fibers
I. Vocabulary and terminology
A - Keyterms and textile terminologies
apparel fiber: xơ để làm ra quần áo
blended fabrics: vải pha
pleasing appearance: vẻ ngồi làm hài lịng grade: cấp b ng
comfort: thoải mái
short-staple: xơ ngắn
easy care: chăm sóc dễ dàng
loaf matter: chất đống bánh
durability: bền lâu
bale: ki n b ng
warm-weather clothing: quần áo mặc ấm
flax: xơ lanh
sportwear: quần áo thể thao
prestige fiber: xơ kỳ di u
work cloth: quần áo lao động
resiliency: độ đàn h i
upholstery: vải bọc đ m, ghế
bedding: vải trải gi
towels: khăn tắm, khăn mặt
staple length: chiều dài xơ
spinning: kéo sợi
seed particles: các phân tử hạt nhỏ
silky: mịn màng nh tơ
linen: vải lanh
smoothness: sự trơn tru, mềm mại
moisture regain: độ ẩm cho phép
fiber bundle: một chùm xơ
ramie: cây gai
conductor of heat: chất dẫn nhi t
stiff: cứng
grasscloth: vải cây cỏ
blends with cotton: vải pha b ng
brittle: giòn dễ gãy
banknotes: giấy bạc
auto upholstery: vãi bọc
t
ng
jute: đay
cigarette paper: giấy thuốc lá
nets: l ới
ropes: dây thừng
sugar bagging: bao đựng đ
carpet backing: vải lót thảm
cordage: làm dây thừng
arearugs: vải phủ
B - Comprehension
1. What are the properties of cotton?
9
ng
Unit 2: Natural Cellulosic Fibers
2. What is the cotton used for?
3. How can the quality of cotton be described?.
4. How is the color of cotton ranged?
5. What is the character of cotton referred to?
6. What term refers to the fabric made from flax?
7. What are the unique and desirable characteristics of flax?
8. What is Ramie known as?
9. Give some the properties of Ramie.
C- True / False
1. Cotton can blend with many fabrics.
2. The quality of cotton depends on terms of grade and character.
3. Low resiliency is a part of the main limitation of flax.
4. otton can’t be used in blends with Ramie.
D- Vocabulary
1. Cotton has a ___________ of properties: pleasing appearance, comfort, easy care.
2. _______ refers to the color of the fiber and the absence of dirt.
3. Color of _______ is ranged from white to yellow.
4. The main limitation of flax is _________.
5. Ramie is also used in _______ with cotton.
II. Grammar
1. The present simple in passive form
Am
Is
Are
+
past participle
10
Unit 2: Natural Cellulosic Fibers
E.g.: Ramie is used to make sweaters, shirt. . .
Ramie is known as a grasscloth.
The fabric is made from flax.
Color of cotton is ranged from white to yellow.
2. In the superlative degree.
adjective - est
Subject + verb + the
most – adj
+
least – adj
in ….
of …..
E.g.: Cotton is the most important apparel fibers.
Flax is the oldest textile fibers.
Jute is the cheapest textile celulosic fibers.
Note
1. After the expression “one of the + superlative be sure the noun is plural and the verb
is singular.
E.g.: One of the oldest textile fibers is flax.
Ramie is one of the strongest natural fibers.
2. In the superlative degree, three or more entities are compared, one of which is superior
or inferior to the others.
III. Exercise
Exercise 1: Put the following sentences into passive voice
1. People grow rice in India.
2. My aunt makes this rug.
3. They fix my car today.
4. They build a new hospital outside of the town.
11
Unit 2: Natural Cellulosic Fibers
5. Does Tom write that report?
6. Machine scores the examination papers.
Exercise 2: Complete the conversations using the superlative form of the adjective.
1. That house is very big.
Yes ………………………in the village.
2. Brad Pitt is a very popular film star.
Yes ………………….. in merica.
3. She is a very funny teacher.
Yes …………………… in our school.
4. Anna is a very intelligent student.
Yes …………………. in the class.
5. This is a very easy exercise.
Yes …………………….. in the book.
12
Unit 3: Natural Protein Fibers
Unit 3: Natural Protein Fibers
Natural protein fibers are of animal
origin: wool and silk.
1/ Wool is one of the first fibers to be
spun into yarns and woven into cloth.
Wool was one of the most widely used
textile fiber and now is a luxury fiber.
The wool legally includes fiber from fur
and hair of various animals such as
Sheep, Angora goat, Cashmere goat, Camel.
Because of its physical structure, wool contributes loft and body to fabrics. Wool
sweaters, suits, carpets, and upholstery are the standard “looks by which manufactured
fiber fabrics are measured. Beside drape, luster, and hand, wool fabrics are very durable
and high hygroscopic which are the outstanding features of wool.
2 / Silk
Silk is a natural protein fiber. It is similar to
wool and is produced by the larvae of a moth.
According to Chinese legend, silkculture or
sericulture began in 2640 B.C.when Empress
Hsiling Shi became interest in silkworms and
learned how to reel the silk and to make it into
fabric. Silk is universally accepted as a luxury
13
Unit 3: Natural Protein Fibers
fiber having a combination of properties not possessed by any other fiber: “ ry tactile
hand; Natural luster; High strength; Good moisture absorption; lively draping qualities.
Silk can be dyed or printed in brilliant colors. Silk is used in apparel and furnishing
items. Because of its absorbency, silk is appropriate for warm-weather wear, active sport
wear, socks. Because of its low heat-conductivity, silk is also appropriate for cold weather
wear.
I. Vocabulary and terminology
A- Keyterms and textile terminologies
natural protein fibers: xơ tự nhiên gốc Angora goat: con dê
động vật
silkculture or sericulture: tr
wool: len
tu
d t silkworms:con sâu tằm
lụa/kỹ ngh
reel the silk : kéo tơ/kéo kén
to be spun into yarns: kéo thành sợi
igh strength: c
ng lực cao
woven into cloth: d t thành vải
camel: lạc đà
luxury fiber: xơ sang trọng/đắt tiền
dyed or printed: nhuộm / in
fur and hair: lơng và tóc
manufactured fiber fabrics: vải từ xơ nhân
Good moisture absorption: sự hút ẩm tốt
tạo
warm-weather wear: quần áo th i tiết ấm drape, luster, and hand: rủ/bóng bẩy/s tay
durable and high hygroscopic:bền và sức hút
sheep: con cừu
ẩm cao
Lively draping qualities: t nh chất rủ/sống outstanding features: t nh chất nổi trội xuất
động
sắc
loft and body fabric: khoảng trống và độ larvae of a moth : ấu trùng của con ngài
dày dặn
14
Unit 3: Natural Protein Fibers
sweaters, suits: áo kiểu/bộ đ
carpets, upholstery: thảm/ vải bọc lót
combination of properties: tập hợp các
t nh chất
tactile hand: liên quan đến s tay
B- Comprehension
1. What fibers do wool and silk belong?
2. What is the wool legally made from?
3. What are the outstanding features of wool?
4. What is the difference between silk and wool?
5. Give some examples of the outstanding features of silk.
C- Vocabulary
1. Fibers are spun into _______ and woven into cloth.
2. _______ includes fiber from fur and hair of various animals.
3. ______ is produced by the larvae of a moth.
4. Silk can be dyed or _______ in brilliant of colors.
5. Silk is also appropriate for _______ weather wear.
D- True / False
1. One of the outstanding features of wool is high hygroscopic.
2. Wool includes fiber from fur , hair and skin of animals.
3. Silk has properties not possessed by any other fiber.
4. Silk is not appropriate for cold weather wear.
15
Unit 3: Natural Protein Fibers
II. Grammar
Passive form with modal verbs:
can, must, may, should, will, would
Modal verb + be + past participle
E.g.: The fabric must be selected for the end – use.
Silk can be dyed in brilliant colors.
Fibers can be spun into yarns and woven into cloth.
III. Exercise
Exercise 1: Put the following sentences into passive voice.
1. You must finish this exercise by 9 o clock.
2. You may use this room for the meeting place.
3. People should plant tomatoes in spring.
4. Someone ought to paint that fence.
5. Someone had to fix our car before we left for Chicago.
6. People can not control the weather.
7. We could not understand what he had written.
8. Must Mr. Hook sign this report?
16
Unit 4: Manufactured Fibers
Unit 4: Manufactured Fibers
There are two groups of manufactured fibers: cellulosic and protein. The cellulosic
manufactured fibers are more important to the textile industry.
1/Rayon
Rayon was the first manufactured cellulosic
fiber. The developers of rayon were trying to
make artificial silk. Rayon was originally used
in crepe and linenlike apparel fabrics. The high
twist that was required to make the crepe yarn
reduced the bright luster of the fibers.
Transparent velvet, sharkskin, tweed, challis
and chiffon were also made from these first rayons. In 1940, high - tenacy rayon for tyre
was developed. High – wet - modulus rayon or polynosic rayon is refered to a highperformance, high-strength rayon which expanded the use of rayon in apparel, home
furnishing and industrial products. Rayon fibers are highly absorbent, soft, comfortable,
easy to dye, and versatile. Fabrics made of rayon have soft drape that designers love.
Rayon can be made into cottonlike, woolike, silklike fabrics.
2/ Acetate
Acetate was the first thermoplastic or heatsensitive fiber. Acetate is available as staple or
filament. Acetate is an ester of cellulose and
therefore has a different chemical structure than
rayon or cotton. Acetate has a combination of
properties that makes it valuable textile fiber. It is
low in cost and has good draping qualities.
Acetate has been promoted as the beauty fiber. It
17
Unit 4: Manufactured Fibers
is widely used in satins, brocades and taffetas in which luster, body and beauty of fabric
are more important than durability or ease of care. Acetate keeps white color and that is
the advantage over silk which yellows readily. A small percentage of nylon may be
combined with acetate to produce a stronger fabric. Some disadvantages of acetate fabric
are; low breaking tenacity; poor resistance to abrasion; not very resilient and wrinkle
during use, lack the easy care. Acetate is used in apparel, furnishings and industrial
products, however, since acetate is not a durable fiber, the fabric must be carefully
selected for the end-use and more cares must be taken during use it.
I. Vocabulary and terminology
A - Keyterms and textile terminologies
manufactured fibers: xơ nhân tạo
acetate: sợi a-xê-tác
rayon: sợi rai- on
ester of cellulose: vải este của xenlulo
artificial silk: lụa/tơ nhân tạo
satins: xa tanh
18
Unit 4: Manufactured Fibers
high twist: độ xoắn cao
durability: độ bền lâu
bright luster: bóng sáng
ease of care: dễ dàng chăm sóc
velvet ; sharkskin: nhung;vải sacxkin sáng, bóng nh da cá mập
high-tenacy: độ dai cao
low breaking tenacity: độ dai kéo đứt kém
soft drape: độ rủ
tweed, challis and chiffon: nỉ, len có in hoa
resilient and wrinkle: đàn h i và nhăn
poor resistance to abrasion: chống lại độ mài mòn kém
high-wet-modulus rayon ( polynosic): phân tử ớt cao
crepe and linenlike: vải giống lanh , vải crepe
cottonlike , woolike, silklike fabrics
cellulosic and protein fibers: xơ gốc xenlulo và gốc động vật
brocades and taffetas: vải gấm có hoa, vải taffetas (vải bóng nh lụa)
II. Exercise
B- Comprehension
1. How many groups do manufactured fibers consist of? What are they?
2. Name some manufactured fibers.
3. What fiber was artificial silk made from?
4. Why was the crepe yarn required the high twist?
5. What products were made from the rayons?
6. Beside being used for apparel fabrics, what can high tenacy rayon also be used?
7. Give some examples of rayon properties?
8. What is the difference between rayon and acetate?
19
Unit 4: Manufactured Fibers
9. What is the advantage of acetate fabric?
10. What is the disadvantage of acetate fabric?
C – Vocabulary
1. The developers of rayon were trying to make_________ silk.
2. _______ can be made into cotton like, wool like fabric
3. _______ was developed for tyre.
4. A small percentage of _________ may be combined with acetate to produce a stronger
fabric.
5. The fabric must be carefully selected for the ________.
D- True /False
1. The crepe yarn reduces the bright luster of the fibers.
2. Artificial silk were made from manufactured fiber.
3. Acetate can be combined with any other fiber to produce a stronger fabric.
4. The outstanding of Acetate is the easy care and durability.
5. Acetate and Rayon are different from chemical structure.
20
Unit 5: Synthetic Fibers
Unit 5: Synthetic Fibers
Synthetic fibers are also considered manufactured
fibers. Many synthetic fibers are made from
petrochemicals. These fibers are found in a wide
variety of apparel, furnishing, and industrial
applications. Most manufactured fibers are heatsensitive. Heat-sensitivity refers to fibers that soften
or melt with heat. Here after is the table of main
properties to synthetic fibers.
Properties
Heat sensitive
Importance to consumers
fabric will shrink or melt if exposed to excess heat. Pleats,
creases can be heat-set in fabrics. Fabrics can be stabilized
by heat setting.
Yarns can be textured for bulk.
Resistant to most
Used in industrial applications where chemical resistance is
chemicals
required
Low moisture
Products dry quickly. Lack of comfort in humid weather.
absorbency
Increases possibility of static. Difficult to dye.
Abrasion resistance
Good appearance retained longer, worn places do not
good to excellent.
appear as soon. Used in many industrial applications.
Strength good to
Strongest fibers make good ropes, belts, and women’s
excellent
hosiery.
Resilience excellent. Easy care apparel, packable for travel. Less wrinkling
during wear
21
Unit 5: Synthetic Fibers
Sunlight resistance
Webbing for outdoor furniture Carpets, curtains and
good to excellent.
draperies. Flags, banner, awnings
Flame resistance
Varies from good to excellent
Pilling
May occur in staple-length fiber products
Electrostatic
Cloths cling to wearer. May cause sparks that can cause
explosion or fire. Shocks in cold dry weather are
unpleasant.
I. Vocabulary and terminology
A - Keyterms and textile terminologies
Synthetic fibers
: xơ tổng hợp
worn place : những chổ rách mịn cũ
Petrochemicals: hóa dầu
Strength: sức lực, bền dai, khỏe
heat-sensitive: nhạy với nhi t
ropes, belts, and women’s hosiery
shrink or melt: co lại hay chảy ra
Resilience: độ đàn h i
Pleats, creases: nếp gấp, nếp nhăn
Easy care: chăm sóc dễ dàng
heat-set: định hình bằng nhi t
wrinkling: tạo nếp nhăn
stabilized by heat setting : ổn định bằng nhi t
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Unit 5: Synthetic Fibers
Sunlight resistance: chống lại ánh sáng mặt tr i
textured for bulk : dúm sợi cho độ b ng
Webbing: mạng mỏng (dải vải)
Carpets, curtains and draperies: thảm, màng cửa
Resistant: sự chống lại
Lowmoisture absorbency: sự hút ẩm thấp
pilling: xù lông
flags, banner, awnings : c , biểu ngữ, tấm bạc che
Shocks: sự va chạm
Abrasion resistance: chống mài mòn
Electrostatic: tĩnh đi n
staple-length fiber products: các sản phẩm bằng sợi staple dài
1. NYLON
Nylon was the first synthetic fiber and the first
fiber conceived in the United States. In 1928,
the Du-Pont Company decided to establish a
fundamental
research
program
on
high
polymers. In 1939, nylon 6,6 was introduced
to the public in women’s hosiery. Nylon had a
combination of properties: it was stronger,
more resistant to abrasion, excellent elasticity
and could be heat-set. Besides, due to its high resistance to chemicals, nylon was suitable
for ropes, cords, sails, parachutes and other industrial products. As nylon entered more
end-use markets, its disadvantages became apparent-static built-up, poor hand, lack of
comfort in skin contact fabrics, and low resistance to sunlight.
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Unit 5: Synthetic Fibers
Summary of the performance of Nylon in apparel and furnishing fabrics is shown in
following table:
Aesthetic
Variable
Durability
Excellent
Abrasion resistance
Excellent
Tenacity
Excellent
Elongation
High
Comfort
Low
Absorbency
low
Thermal retention
Moderate
Appearance retention
High
Resiliency
High
Dimensional stability
high
Care
Machine wash
- Aesthetic: Nylon has been very successful in hosiery and in knitted – filament fabrics
such as tricot and jersey because of its smoothness, light weight and high strength. The
luster of Nylon can be selected for the end – use: it can be lustrous, semi lustrous, or dull.
- Durability: Nylon has outstanding durability, suitable for seat – belts, tire, cordssails.
- Comfort: Nylon has low absorbency and is not as a comfortable fiber to wear as the
natural fibers.
- Appearance retention: Nylon fabrics are highly resilient because they have been heat –
set. The same process can be used to make permanent pleats, creases, and embossed
designs that last for the life of the product. Shrinkage resistance is also high because the
heat setting and the low absorbency fiber are not affected by water. This excellent
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Unit 5: Synthetic Fibers
property makes Nylon an excellent fiber for hosiery, tights, ski- pants, swimsuits and
other active sport – wears.
A - Keyterms and textile terminologies
synthetic fiber: xơ tổng hợp
high polymers: cao phân tử
resistant to abrasion: chống mài mòn
elasticity: độ đàn h i
heat-set: định hình bằng nhi t
ropes, cords, sail, parachutes:
end-use markets: mục tiêu thị tr
ng
static built-up: tạo nên tĩnh đi n
poor hand: độ s kh ng đ ợc mềm
disadvantages: nh ợc điểm
skin-contact fabrics: các loại vải tiếp xúc da
lack of comfort: thiếu ti n nghi
resistance to sunlight: chịu đ ợc ánh sáng mặt tr i
shrinkage resistance: chống co
tights, ski-pants: quần bó, quần tr ợt tuyết
tenacity: độ dai
elongation: kéo dài
absorbency: hút ẩm
thermal retention :giữ nhi t độ
smoothness: độ trơn tru/mềm mại
resiliency: sự đàn h i
care: sự chăm sóc
tricot and jersey: vải tri c và vải d t kim đơn
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