Birds - Section 5 - Birds house docx

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destroyed, and
growth
along
fences removed.
Any man-
made devices that will
help to replace the birds'
dwindling
supply of
natural shelter will be a distinct
benefit to
them.
Successful

bird attraction requires an adequate
number
of
the right kind of birdhouses.
Birdhouses must
be
built for
speciflc types of birds, not
just
for
birds
in
general,
and
they must be correctly located
and maintained.
The
con-
struction of
birdhouses offers a dual
pleasure:
flrst, the
enjoyment of making them; second,
the
adventure of attract-
ing
and
sheltering
birds with them.
know

the birds
you
want
to attract
It
is
common
knowledge
that wrens
will
build
a
nest
in
almost
any
type
of
shelter-an
old
tin can,
a shoe,
or a
flowerpot.
This
fact
has
led
many
people

to
believe that
all
birds
are no
more
selective
in
their
choice of
a shelter.
This
impression
is
far
from
the
truth. Birds
as a rule
are very
particular
about
where
their
nests
are buitt
and how
they
are
made.

For
this
reason
you
must
plan
a house
for
a
speciflc
bird, making
sure
that it is
the
correct
size, has
the
proper
opening,
and
is
placed
at
a
predetermined
height
above
the
ground.
The

birdhouses
described
in
this book
follow
these specifi.cations,
and in
building
them
you
can
be assured
that
they meet
the needs
of the
birds for which
they
are intended.
two
types
of
birds
The
birds
that
the
amateur
bird
fancier

will
want
to attract
to his
birdhouse
can
be divided
into
two
groups:
the tree
dwellers
and
the
cavity
dwellers.
Tree
dwellers
will not live
in
a house
or any
kind
of
cavity.
For
example,
the Baltimore
Orio1e
will never

build
a nest
in
a man-made
or
a nature-
made
box. The
oriole
always
builds
its own
graceful
nest
out
of hair
and
other
weaving
materials,
suspending
it from
branches,
such
as those
of
the elm
tree.
On the other
hand,

woodpeckers
always
build their nests
in
the hollow
of trees
or
in
other
cavities.
A report
of
the
United States Fish
and
Wildlife
Service
states
that there
are more
than 50
species
of birds
that will
occupy man-made
houses.
There
should
be
little

difficulty,
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nesting
materials
box
Sides:
Bottom:
Back:
Top:
Dowels:
Hinge
(with

screws):
Very
early in
spring,
perhaps
right
after the
snow leaves,
it is
a
good
time
to
provide
nesting
materials
for
the birds.
Here is
a
neat,
handy
box
that
stores
the materials
in
one
place,
keeps

them
dry
and
ready for
the birds to
use, and
when
the nesting
season
is
over,
the box
can be
used as a
suet
feeder.
The
construction
of
this neat,
handy
box is
simple.
Nail
together
the stock
for
the two sides
so that
these two

pieces
can
be cut
in one
operation.
Drill
the
tA-inch
holes
for
the
dowels,
making
one
right-hand
and
one left-hand.
Cut all
the other
pieces.
Nail
the back
to
the bottom,
and then
nail
on
the sides
after
the

dowels
are inserted.
Put brads
through
the
dowels. Then
fit
the
top or lid
and attach
it with
a 1
by
1
inch
hinge
cut in
half.
Give the
box a
coat of weatherproof
stain or
paint
if
you
want
to.
bill
of materials
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Gommercial
birdhouses
Some
excellent
birdhouses
made
by
reputable
fi.rms are on
the market.
You
will
flnd
the manufacturers
listed in

the
better
periodicals,
such
as
the Audubon
Magazine.
While
they
will
certainly
meet
the needs
of the
bird fancier,
the
manual
training
student
and homecrafter
can make houses
that are
just
as
good
and
cost a tot
less.
The
houses

shown
on the following pages
can
be
made
by anyone.
Other
bird-
houses
are
also
sold
that simply
do not
come
up to basic
requirements.
Painted
in
bright
colors
to catch
the cus-
tomer's
eye,
they frequently
are
found
on the shelves
of

roadside
stands
and novelty
shops.
As
a rule
they are
not
the
right
dimensions,
have
the wrong-size
openings,
are
made of
poor
materials,
and
are
constructed
unsatisfac-
torily.
They
are
designed
for
decoration
rather
than

for
bird
attraction.
This
word
of warning
should
be enough
to
steer
you
clear
of them.
some
practical
building
hints
Here are
some
suggestions
for
making
any
type of bird-
houses.
First,
design
it
for the
bird

it is
to shelter. Try
to
duplicate
as
closely
as
possible
the
natural
shelter of
the
bird. A
woodpecker,
for
example,
will
be more
at
home
in a
house
covered
with
bark
than one
painted green.
Second,
construct your
birdhouses

with
care, taking
special
pains
to
produce
accurate,
good
fitting
joints.
Third,
make
the
house
pleasing
in
appearance
but
do not make
a
garden
ornament
out
of it.
You may
like
fancy
designs
and bright
colors,

but
birds
don't.
The
houses
on the
following
pages
incorporate
almost
all
of
the following
suggestions.
There
will be some variations
in
the
specifications
for
a
particular
birdhouse,
such
as the
use
of
tin or
of rooflng
paper

for
covering
the roof
joint.
Such
variations
can
be supplied
to
any of
the designs.
Use
your
own
imagination
to make
changes
as long
as
you
d.o
not
depart
from
the
basic
speciflcations
and
size. fn
most

instances,
the houses
may
be
altered
to
accommodate
other
birds
by changing
the
size of
the
opening
and making
the
house
deeper
or shallower
according
to speciflcations
for
the species.
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books advise that
the rough surfaces be located
on
the
out-
side for rustic
appearance. This
suggestion
is well intended
but
impractical.
Lumber that
is
rough on both sides will
provide
both a foothold for

the
birds
on the
inside
and a
rustic
appearance on
the outside.
6.
Provide
ventilation. If
a small house,
poorly
ventilated,
is located in
the sun and occupied
by four or flve baby birds,
it can
become so hot
they will suffocate. You can
provide
adequate circulation
by having vent
holes at the top of the
house
below the
extended roof boards. In
some cases the
sidepieces
can

be
cut an eighth of an inch
short so that
there will
be a vent
along
the
upper
side of the house.
7. Be
sure that
the house drains. If
the
bottom
of
the house
is
"glove-tight,"
any rain
that
seeps in
or
is
driven in dur-
ing
a
storm
may accumulate
and
cause baby birds to drown.

Drain holes in
the bottom will
prevent
the house from flood-
ing. All
the houses in
this book have
swing-out bottoms
for
easy cleaning
and are loosely
fitted so
that
moisture
can-
not
collect.
8. Have a
tight roof.
Generally, when
the boards
have
been
accurately cut
and fi.tted,
the
roof
will be waterproof. As
an added
precaution

you
can
nail
a
tin
strip
over the ridge
or
cover
it
with roofi.ng
paper.
9. Protect
the opening.
See to
it
that
the roof boards extend
well
over
the front
or opening
side of
the
house. This
over-
hang
prevents
rain from
being blown into

the house.
10.
Be
sure the
house is
easy
to clean. In
the
houses
shown
there is
a
pivot
screw
at
each side
of the bottom
toward the
rear.
Another
screw
holds
the bottom
at the front of
the
house.
When
the front
screw is
rernoved,

the bottom
swings
out
so that
the
entire inside
may
be cleaned. This
is
a simple
way
to make
a house
easy to clean without
the
use of hinges
and other
unnecessary
hardware. The
houses
should
be
cleaned
each
year,
late
.in
fall or
very early
spring,

to remove
the old
nest and
any
bugs or
debris from
the
previous
season.
Do
not
wash
out the house
with
soap
and
water
unless
you
are
positive
that lice
are
present.
If
you
like,
you
can
put

a very
little,
clean, new
excelsior
in
the bottom
of
the house
as
a welcome
for
the new
birds.
11.
Give the
house
a
suitable
flnish.
Birdhouses
can
be
painted
and stained.
A finish
that
will
protect
them
against

the weather
may
be
preferred.
However,
select
colors
that
are
dull
and
drab;
do not
look
for
the
brightest
orange,
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I Notrf
nursNof
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Nf
I
Dimensions
of Birdhouses
and Height
They
Should Be
Placed Above
the Ground
Bird
Inside
Depth

of of
House
House
Size
of
Entrance
Height
Entrance
Above
Above
Floor
Ground
Bewick's
'Wren
Carolina
'Wren
Chickadee
Downy
4x4
4x4
Woodpecker 4x 4
House Wren
4x
4
Nuthatch 4x
4
Titmouse 4 x 4
Bluebird
5 x 5
TreoSwallow 5x

5
Violet-Green
Swallow 5 x 5
Crested
Flycatcher 6 x
6
Golden-
Fronted
Woodpecker 6 x 6
Hairy
Woodpecker
House Finch
Purple
Martin
R,edheaded
Woodpecker
Saw-Whet
Owl
Starling
Flicker
Screech
OwI
Sparrow
Hawk
Barn
Owl
Wood Duck
SI{ELF NESTS
Barn
Swallow

Phoebe
Füobin
Song
Sparrow
6x 6
6x 6
6x
6
6x
6
6x
6
6x 6
7x 7
8x I
6to 8
8to10
8to10
6to
8
8to10
8to10
8
o
6
8to10
12 to
15
12
to 15

tt
6
12
to 15
10
to 12
16
to 18
16 to 18
12 to 15
8x
8 12to15
10x18
15to18
IOYB xlOYz
24
6x 6
6
6x 6
6
6x
8
8
6x
6
6
Dimensions
in Inches
4x
4

6to 8 1
L
-/g
I7/a
L7/+
1
tr/+
ty4
I1/z
L7/z
L-/2
I
I
tyz
t
27/z
2
zyz
L
21/z
3
3
t)
3
1to 6
1to 6
6to
8
6to 8
1to 6

6to I
6to 8
6
1to 5
1to 5
6to 8
9to12
9to12
4
I
9to12
8to10
14 to 16
14 to
16
9to12
9to12
4
20
Feet
6to10
6to10
6to15
6to20
6to10
L2 to 20
6to15
5to10
10 to 15
10 to 15

8to20
12
to 20
LZ to 20
8to12
15 to 20
12 to
20
12 to
20
10
to 25
6to20
10 to
30
10
to 30
12 to
18
10 to
25
8to12
8to12
6to15
1to
3
(A)
(A)
(A)
(B)

(A)
One or more
sides open
(B)
AII
sides open
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Do not
try to
take boxes
aPart
by hitting
the sides
with
a ham-
mer-the
wood
will sPlit
and
be
uset ess.
Note the
correct way:
place
a
block
on the
side so that
blows
of the hammer
loosen
the entire
side without
splitting.
\

A few suggestions
are
shown here for
taking
the boxes
apart. Never hit
the side of
thin boxes, or
fruit
boxes,
with
a hammer. Nine
times out of ten
you
will split the wood.
Instead, select
a heavy wood block
as
long
as the boards
are wide.
When this block is struck
with the
hammer,
the
entire
end of the board is
loosened. You
can also take boxes
apart by sawing

off the board near
the
end.
The
small ends
remaining
are removed
and the nails
withdrawn
easily.
In
studying
the
plans
for the house
you
are
going
to build,
look for
parts
that have
the same dimensions, such
as the
front
and
back. Nail
together the
two
pieces

of stock for
such
parts,
mark
one of
them, and
cut out both at the same
time.
This
not only
saves
time but also insures
cutting
the
pieces
to the
same size.
They
can be
cut by hand with
a
cross-cut
saw
or with
a
power
jig
saw.
In drilling
the en-

trance
hole,
use an
expansive bit
and set it
accurately.
To
prevent
splintering
the wood on
the far
side, clamp
the
stock in
the
bench vise,
using a
back-up
block as shown
on
pagel?7.
The
bit will
enter
the second
block,
cut a clean
sharp hole
in
the front

of the house,
and there will
be no
ragged
edge.
Vent
holes
are usually
made with
a
l/+-inc}n
drill. A
drill
press
or
ordinary
portable
drill
can be
used instead of
a
hand
drill. As
a rule,
the
grain
of the front
and
back
pieces

To
make duplicate
pieces,
brad
them together and saw both at
the same time.
Saw
off
the sides of
the box next
to
the nails.
This
method
insures
good
pieces
of
wood
without
splits
or hammer
marks.
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close
to serve as a
perch.
If
possible,
mount the
birdhouse
on a
metal
pole, preferably
a
1-inch or
17q-inch
pipe.
Set

the
pipe
in the
ground
in
either
a rock-lined
hole or
in
concrete.
Shown here are four
practical,
simple ways of mounting
a typical birdhouse.
If
the house
is
to be
suspended, use
an
eye bolt that extends through the roof and
hang it by a
long wire to
provide protection
from
cats.
If
the
house
is mounted on

pipe,
screur
a
pipe
flange the size of the
pipe
to the bottom of the house. For a flat mounting
method,
screw a strip
to the back of the
house,
or drill a
hole through
the back opposite the front opening, and insert a long screw
through the back.
HANGING
EYE
POST
BOTTOM
3/4u
PIPE
FLANGE
3/4,PIPE
GALV,
FLAT MOUNTING
SCREW
THRU BACK
OF
HOUSE
:=:7

SCREW
t/
TREE
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BEND
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FiT TO POST

NAIL
HOLE
S
I,/2"LAP
AND
I
SOLDER
1
FOR
T'
BOLT
ON
Shown and detailed
is
a typical
installation. For
mounting
on
pipe,
the opening
in
the center
must be
smaller.
To
get
an
accurate fi.t, make a template
out of
paper

or cardboard
and then transfer
it
to the
metal. Solder the ends
of the
metal together to avoid
any
ridges
that
would
provide
a
foothold for squirrels.
tree
guard
When
hanging feeders
or
houses
on
tree branches,
place
a
piece
of split rubber
garden
house
about the
branch to

prevent
injury
to the bark.
teeter-totter
squirrel
guard
The
principle
of
this effective
squirrel
guard
is that
it
"floats"
on three evenly spaced supports. If a squirrel
gets
on
the edge, the
guard
tips and
he
finds
himself back
on
the
ground!
The tin must be lightweight-if
it is too heavy,
a squirrel

can
get
onto
it, for
a
moment,
which
is
just
long
enough for it to
jump
to the
feeder
above.
If the
guard
is
light he
cannot
get
a foothold. The diameter of the
guard
should be at least
20
inches. The
hole
in
the center
of

the
130
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a
house for
your
bluebird
lane
Recent studies
and counts
by the National Audubon
Society
and
the
U. S.
Fish
and
Wildlife Service show
that there
is
a marked
decrease
in
the
bluebird

population.
Bluebirds
may
even
be faced
with
extinction
if nothing
is done
to
help
this
beneflcial
and
beautiful
species.
The reasons
for
the decline
of this species
are
many. First,
our effort
to
"clean
up" woods, fence
rows, and fields have
led
to a reduction
in nesting

facilities. Hollow
trees are
cut down
and old
cedar fence
posts
are replaced
by metal
posts.
These
old
posts
and trees also
are a source of food
and
as they
are destroyed
food is
also
destroyed. An addi-
tional
}razard
to all
bird life is
the
ever-increasing
use of
sprays
for insect
control.

To
help restore
the
bluebird
population,
you
can build
a
dozen
or so houses
of the
type shown here.
Use any sort
of
wood
available.
Stain
the houses
a dark
green
or brown if
you
want.
Then
select
a
"route" or lane
and install them.
A fence row is
an

ideal
location.
Or,
if
you
can, set them up
along the
edge
of
a woods with
open flelds on one side.
Mount
them about
5
feet
off the
ground.
Do
not
place
them
near
barns
or dwellings.
Since each
bird
has
a definite
territory,
place

the
houses
about 500
yards
apart.
Visit
your
"lane"
from
time
to time and see how
your
ten-
ants are
getting
along. You are sure
to flnd
families in
several
of them. If
you
do not succeed
the
first
year,
don't
give
up-they will
be
there the

following
year.
At the
end
of the season
clean out the houses
and have
them
ready
for
spring. It will
be a lot
of
fun.
Bori
AtL
S'IOCK
3/4"
63/4 TOP
BEVEL
600
SCREW
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olll
ced
ar-log
wren
house

For
the
cedar-log
wren
house,
use
a
piece
of
green
cedar
post
that
does
not
have
a
tendency
to check
or
crack
when
drying.
To
form
t}ne 9Vz-inch
nest,
flrst
drill
a series

of
holes
around
the
outside;
then
drill
out
the rest
of
the
wood
the
same
way.
cut
the slant
at
the
top
and
drill the
entrance
hole
as
well
as
the
hole
for

the
r/+-indn
dowel
perch.
cut
the
roof
and
nail
it
in
place.
The
wren
house
can
be left
natural
and
the
roof
stained
brown
or
green.
Mount
the
house
through
the

hole
in
the
back
of
the
house
opposite
the
front
opening.
bill
Cedar
log
for
the body:
Roof:
Dowel
for
perch:
of
materials
1-
5-in.
dia. x7t/z
in.
1-/zx6x7in.
l-Ya-in.dia.xBin.
WREN
HOUSE

M'T'G
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house
wren
shelter
This house
wren
shelter
has
an
ever
popular
design
of
pleasing
proportions.
The
construction
is

relatively
simple
because
all
cuts
are
straight
with
only
one
angle,
namely,
that
of the
sidepieces.
Cut
the
pieces
for
the
sides
and
top
to size. Nail
on
the
front
and
back
and

then
nail
on
the roof.
Cut
the bottom
last
and
flt in
place.
Round
off
the
rear
bottom
edge of
the
bottom
so
that it
will
swing
freely.
Drill
pivot
holes
in
the
sides
and

insert
brass
screws
through
the holes
and
drive
them
into
the
bottom.
Then
put
in
the
front
screw
which
holds
the
bottom
in
place.
Next
flt the
mounting
strip
in
the
back

and
notch
out
the
roof
as indicated.
Be
sure
to make
vent
holes
in
the
sides
as
shown
on
the drawing.
The
house
wren
shelter
can
be stained
or
painted.
bill
of materials
Sides:
Z-lzx

5 x
6l+in.
Front:
L-lzx
6 x 6t/zin.
Back:
[-/zx
6 x 38/ein.
Roof:
t-Vz xLO
x 9lz in.
Bottom:
L-lzx
5 x 5 in.
Mounting
strip:
1-s/+
x lY+ xl2 in.
ilt
136
LAT
r40r-ro€
l-3vcvu€
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x
r/t
lx?/e
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N]UM:SNOH
bluebird
house
Every
bird fancier
will want
this house

to attract bluebirds
to his
yard
and
garden.
It has
an attractive
design
and
at
the same
time
meets
all the specifications
for a bluebird
house.
The
scrolled
eaves lend
charm
to this
flne bird
dwelling.
Make
the front
and back
at the same
time
by nailing the
stock for

them
together
and
cutting
them to size in one
operation.
Drill
the
entrance hole
in
the front
piece.
Cut
the
perch
supports
and nail
them
on the front
with
the
dowel
cross
bar before
you
start
to assemble
the house.
Cut the other
pieces

to size. Nail the front
and back to the
sidepieces.
Now nail
on the roof
boards. Then
cut the dec-
orative
eaves on
the scroll saw
or with
a coping saw, two
at
a time. Note
that
the top
must have
the same
pitch
as
the roof,
namely,
60 degrees
on each
side of
center
line.
Nail
the
eaves

to the roof in
front
and ba,ck
L/z
inch
from
the
edge.
Now
cut and fit
the bottom.
Round off
the rear
bottom edge
of the
bottom so it
will swing
clear for
cleaning. Drill holes
for the side
pivot
brass screws
and
then drive in
these
screws
and
the front holding
screw.
Use an eye bolt

to
mount
this bluebird
house
as described
on
page
128"
Stain
or
paint
the house
as desired.
The roof
can be a con-
trasting
color.
bill
of materials
Front and
back: 2-
1/z
xgl/z
x
IOd/e
in.
Sides: 2-
1/z
x5 x
8 in.

Perch
supports:
2-
1/z
xP
x 4/z in.
Dowel
for
perch:
L-
/+-in.
dia. dowel
x
7 in.
long
Roof:
Bottom:
2-
t/z
xTVz
x
IO
in.
I-4yz
x
5 in.
138
Scroll
eaves:
2-

yz
xSlz
x IOlz
in.
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