The original beauty bible paula begoun

The
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PAULA BEGOUN


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Contributor: Bryan Barron
Editors: Sigrid Asmus, John Hopper, Stephanie Parsons, Seanna Browder
Art Direction, Cover Design, and Typography: Erin Smith Bloom
Printing: RR Donnelley
Research Assistant: Bryan Barron
Copyright © 2009, Paula Begoun
Publisher: Beginning Press

1030 SW 34th Street, Suite A

Renton, Washington 98057
1st Edition Printing: March 2009
ISBN: 978-1-877988-33-2

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form
or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any
information storage or retrieval system, without written permission from Beginning Press
and/or Paula Begoun, except for the inclusion of quotations in a review.
This book is distributed to the United States book trade by:
Publishers Group West
1700 Fourth Street
Berkeley, California 94710
(510) 528-1444
To the Canadian book trade by:

Raincoast Books Limited
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(604) 633-5714
To the Australian book trade by:
Peribo Pty Limited
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Mount Kuring-Gai NSW 2080 Australia
02 9457 0011


Table of Contents
Chapter One—
The Beauty Industry: Universally Crazy
Why a New Edition.................................................................................................1
All Over the World..................................................................................................1
Let Me Introduce Myself …....................................................................................2
A Personal Quest.....................................................................................................3
A Personal Beauty Miracle.......................................................................................4
The Best Ingredients for Skin?.................................................................................4
Struggling with the Cosmetics Industry...................................................................5
Cosmetics Chemistry—An Art and a Science..........................................................6

Chapter Two—Understanding The Hype
Why Cosmetics Companies Can Mislead Legally....................................................9
The Business of Claim Substantiation—Our Study Shows....................................11
A Perfect Example of How “Studies” Can Mislead.................................................13
Myth Busting: 30 Major Beauty Myths and the Real Facts.....................................14
Advertising Victims...............................................................................................32
Brand-Name Loyalty.............................................................................................33

Cosmeceuticals: Doctors Get in on the Act............................................................34
Why We Believe....................................................................................................35
The 10 Beauty Commandments Everyone Should Know......................................39

Chapter Three— Frauds & Fears
Be Afraid, Be Very Afraid.......................................................................................41
Mineral Oil and Petrolatum...................................................................................42
Parabens and Preservatives.....................................................................................42
Nanotechnology....................................................................................................45
Oxygen for the Skin...............................................................................................47
Propylene Glycol...................................................................................................48
Phthalates..............................................................................................................49
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate...........................................................................................50
Stem Cells in Skin-Care Products?.........................................................................52
Botanicals or All Natural?......................................................................................53
Drinking Collagen to Fight Wrinkles?....................................................................53


Chapter Four—Organic Cosmetics
Do “Natural” One Better
Organic Cosmetics................................................................................................57
Organic Food’s Relation to Cosmetics...................................................................58
Green Chemistry Defined......................................................................................58
The Organic Market: Full Steam (Distillation) Ahead!...........................................59
Check the Labels for the Truth...............................................................................60
Organic in Name Only?.........................................................................................60
Organic Outrage: The Industry Battles Itself..........................................................61
Other Organic & Pro Natural Groups...................................................................63
Shopping for Organic Cosmetics...........................................................................64

Chapter Five—Skin Type?
What Is Skin Type?................................................................................................67
What Influences Skin Type?...................................................................................68
Will My Skin Type Change?..................................................................................68
Will I Ever Have “Normal” Skin?..........................................................................69
Combination Skin Is the Most Confusing Skin Type.............................................69
Unseen Skin Types Below the Surface....................................................................70
Skin-Care Products Can Influence Skin Type
and Not in a Good Way!......................................................................................70
Everyone Has Sensitive Skin..................................................................................70
Mature Skin Folly: Skin Type Has Nothing to Do with Your Age..........................71
Does Skin Color or Ethnicity Affect Skin Care?.....................................................71
Determining Your Skin Type.................................................................................72

Chapter Six—Skin’s Enemy: Irritation
and Inflammation
It Hurts Everyone..................................................................................................77
Inflamm-aging.......................................................................................................77
How to Be Gentle..................................................................................................78
Anti-Irritants and Anti-Inflammatories..................................................................80
Heat Is a Problem..................................................................................................81
Don’t Smoke..........................................................................................................81
Fragrance in Skin-Care Products............................................................................82


Allergic Reactions..................................................................................................84
Diet, Beauty Supplements, and Wrinkles...............................................................84

Chapter Seven—Sun Sense and Sensibility
Getting Naked.......................................................................................................87

Understanding UV................................................................................................87
Suntanning Is Not Pretty.......................................................................................89
Sunscreen: Anti-Aging Friend or Foe?....................................................................90
Vitamin D and Sun...............................................................................................91
Does Sunscreen Inhibit Vitamin D Production?....................................................91
Suntanning Machines............................................................................................92
Can Sunscreen Affect Skin Negatively?..................................................................93
Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide........................................................................95
Sun Strategy...........................................................................................................95
What About SPF?..................................................................................................96
UVA versus UVB...................................................................................................96
Applying Sunscreen: How Much, When, and Where.............................................96
Water Resistant Not Waterproof............................................................................98
Sunburn.................................................................................................................98
Sun Risk from Using AHAs, BHA, or Tretinoin?...................................................99
Why You May Still Get Tan When Using Sunscreen............................................100
How High Should You Go?.................................................................................100
SPF-Rated Clothing............................................................................................101
How Long Do Sunscreens Last?...........................................................................101
Sun Protection for Different Skin Types...............................................................101
Sunscreens for Oily Skin......................................................................................102
For the Little Ones..............................................................................................103
The Art of Self-Tanning.......................................................................................104
Tanning Pills?......................................................................................................107
Skin Cancer and Sun Damage.............................................................................108
Actinic Keratosis..................................................................................................110
After-Sun Care.....................................................................................................111
Buying Sunglasses................................................................................................112

Chapter Eight—Skin Care & Moisturizers
What Is a Moisturizer? (The Answer Will Surprise You).......................................113
What Every Skin Type Needs...............................................................................113
Free-Radical Damage...........................................................................................114
Antioxidants........................................................................................................114
Skin-Identical Ingredients....................................................................................115
Cell-Communicating Ingredients........................................................................116
Anti-Irritants.......................................................................................................120
Skin Is Permeable.................................................................................................121
There Is No Single Miracle Ingredient.................................................................121
What Are Serums, Treatments, Anti-Wrinkle Products, Etcetera For?..................122
Taking Care of Dry Skin......................................................................................122
For Those with Normal to Oily Skin or Minimal Dryness...................................123
Dry Underneath and Oily on Top........................................................................123
Dry Patches of Skin.............................................................................................124
What About Eye Creams?....................................................................................124
Is There a Difference Between a Daytime versus
Nighttime Moisturizer?......................................................................................125

Chapter Nine—Every Skin Type Can Benefit
from Exfoliating
Skin Should Exfoliate Naturally … . ...................................................................127
What Happens When You Exfoliate....................................................................127
Why Exfoliate......................................................................................................128
AHAs versus BHA...............................................................................................129
Scrubs versus AHAs and BHA.............................................................................129
How Do You Choose Which Exfoliant Is Best for You?........................................130
How Do You Use AHAs or BHA?.......................................................................131
What About Cleansers with AHAs or BHA Ingredients?......................................131
pH Sensitive AHA and BHA...............................................................................131

AHA Imposters....................................................................................................132
BHA Imposters....................................................................................................133
What About Higher Concentrations of AHAs?....................................................133
Can You Exfoliate Too Often?..............................................................................133
Polyhydroxy Acids...............................................................................................134
Exfoliating Oily Skin...........................................................................................135


Exfoliating Dry Skin............................................................................................135
Exfoliating Sun-Damaged Skin............................................................................136

Chapter Ten—Skin-Care Planning:
Going Over the Basics
Is Skin Care Rocket Science?................................................................................137
Going Over the Basics.........................................................................................138
Cleaning the Skin................................................................................................138
What Is the Best Cleanser?...................................................................................138
What About Cleansers with “Active” Ingredients?................................................140
What About Bar Soap?........................................................................................141
Eye-Makeup Removers........................................................................................143
Removing All Your Makeup Is Essential...............................................................143
Washcloths versus Scrubs.....................................................................................144
Water Temperature Is Important!.........................................................................144
What Do Toners Tone?........................................................................................144
Alcohol Is Always a Problem for Skin...................................................................145
Exfoliants.............................................................................................................146
Retinoids (Retinol, Retin-A, Differin, and Tazorac).............................................147
Sunscreen.............................................................................................................148
Moisturizers (They Aren’t What You Think They Are).........................................148
Facial Masks........................................................................................................149

Chapter Eleven—Solutions for Wrinkles
The Basics............................................................................................................151
Dry Skin Doesn’t Cause Wrinkles........................................................................152
Why “Anti-Wrinkle” Creams Can’t Work Better Than Botox...............................153
How Skin Ages and Wrinkles...............................................................................155
Cellular Renewal and Repair................................................................................156
Sunscreen, Tretinoin, and Exfoliants—A Very Good Place to Start......................156

Chapter Twelve—Solutions for
Perimenopause & Menopause
The Basics............................................................................................................159
When Your Body Makes Less Estrogen................................................................159
Hormones for Wrinkles and Healing...................................................................160


Hormone Replacement Therapy..........................................................................161
Topical Application of Progesterone and Estrogen...............................................162
Skin-Care Options...............................................................................................162
AHAs and BHA for Postmenopausal Women......................................................163
Supplements for Hormonal Changes...................................................................163

Chapter Thirteen—Solutions for Skin Lightening
The Basics............................................................................................................165
Skin Lightening...................................................................................................166
Cosmetic Industry Hype......................................................................................167
Sunscreen.............................................................................................................167
Hydroquinone.....................................................................................................168
Tretinoin and Retinol..........................................................................................169
AHAs and BHA and Chemical Peels....................................................................170

Kojic Acid............................................................................................................170
Azelaic Acid.........................................................................................................171
Arbutin................................................................................................................171
Other Alternatives...............................................................................................172
Vitamin C...........................................................................................................172
Laser and Light Treatments..................................................................................173
Laser...............................................................................................................173
Intense Pulsed Light........................................................................................174
Fractional Photothermolysis............................................................................174
Combination Treatments.....................................................................................174

Chapter Fourteen—Solutions for Dry Skin
The Basics............................................................................................................175
Repairing the Problem.........................................................................................176
Understanding Dry Skin—It Isn’t About Water...................................................176
Too Much Water Can Be a Problem....................................................................177
Drinking Water...................................................................................................178
Practical Guidelines for Dry Skin.........................................................................178

Chapter Fifteen—Solutions for Acne
The Basics............................................................................................................179
Busting Acne Myths.............................................................................................180


What Causes Blemishes?......................................................................................181
Why Me?.............................................................................................................183
You Can’t Zap Zits...............................................................................................184
Or Can You Zap Zits?..........................................................................................184
What You Can Do...............................................................................................186
Topical Options...................................................................................................187

Systemic Options.................................................................................................187
Experiment..........................................................................................................187
What You Shouldn’t Do.......................................................................................187
When to See a Dermatologist..............................................................................189
What About Diet?...............................................................................................189
Toothpaste for Acne? NOT..................................................................................190
Oil-Free Is a Bad Joke..........................................................................................190
Will It Make Me Break Out?...............................................................................190
Blemish-Fighting Basics.......................................................................................192
Exfoliants: BHA versus AHA...............................................................................193
Over-the-Counter Antibacterial Options.............................................................194
Prescription Antibacterials...................................................................................195
Dapsone: The Latest Antibacterial Option...........................................................195
Tea Tree Oil versus Benzoyl Peroxide...................................................................196
Tretinoin for Blemishes........................................................................................197
Differin................................................................................................................197
Azelaic Acid.........................................................................................................198
Oral Antibiotics...................................................................................................198
Niacinamide and Nicotinic Acid for Acne............................................................199
Birth-Control Pills for Acne?...............................................................................200
Accutane: A Personal Saga....................................................................................200
What Is Accutane—A Possible Cure?...................................................................201
Accutane—Risky Stuff.........................................................................................202
Accutane Pregnancy Warnings Ignored................................................................203
Depression from Accutane...................................................................................204
Handling the Side Effects of Accutane.................................................................205
Hormone Blockers for Acne?...............................................................................206
Oral Supplements for Acne?.................................................................................207
Photodynamic Therapy........................................................................................207
Chemical Peels.....................................................................................................208

Microdermabrasion.............................................................................................209


Sulfur...................................................................................................................209
Removing Blemishes............................................................................................210
Pore Strips?..........................................................................................................210
You Still Need Sunscreen.....................................................................................211

Chapter Sixteen—Solutions for Blackheads
The Basics............................................................................................................213
Struggling with Blackheads and Large Pores.........................................................214
Empty, Enlarged Pores?........................................................................................216

Chapter Seventeen—Solutions for Rosacea
The Basics............................................................................................................219
Another Problem.................................................................................................220
Rosacea................................................................................................................220
Types of Rosacea..................................................................................................221
What Causes Rosacea?.........................................................................................222
Rosacea or Acne?..................................................................................................222
Rosacea Can Affect the Eyes ...............................................................................223
Solutions for Rosacea...........................................................................................223
Gentle Skin-Care Products..............................................................................223
Salicylic Acid...................................................................................................224
Antioxidants...................................................................................................224
Topical Antimicrobial Treatments...................................................................224
Azelaic Acid....................................................................................................225
Oral Antibiotics..............................................................................................225
Renova or Differin..........................................................................................226
Lifestyle Considerations..................................................................................226

Lasers and Light-Emitting Devices..................................................................226

Chapter Eighteen—Solutions for Psoriasis
The Basics............................................................................................................227
The Heartbreak of Psoriasis.................................................................................228
What Causes Psoriasis?........................................................................................228
Types of Psoriasis.................................................................................................228
Nail Psoriasis.......................................................................................................229
Skin Care.............................................................................................................229


Trial and Error.....................................................................................................230
The Sun...............................................................................................................230
Prescription Only Treatments for Psoriasis...........................................................231
Coal Tar..........................................................................................................231
Anthralin........................................................................................................232
Vitamin D3....................................................................................................232
Topical Steroids/Cortisone..............................................................................232
Retinoids........................................................................................................233
Salicylic Acid (BHA).......................................................................................233
Argan Oil........................................................................................................234
Methotrexate...................................................................................................234
Cyclosporin.....................................................................................................234
Oral Forms of Vitamin A (Retinoids)..............................................................235
Etanercept and Infliximab...............................................................................235
5-Fluorouracil.................................................................................................236
Elidel..............................................................................................................236
Combination Therapy....................................................................................236

Chapter Nineteen—Solutions for Seborrhea

and Eczema
The Basics............................................................................................................239
Seborrhea.............................................................................................................240
Eczema (Atopic Dermatitis).................................................................................241
Solutions for Eczema—Atopic Dermatitis...........................................................242

Chapter Twenty—Solutions for Cellulite
Reality Only Hurts a Little..................................................................................245
What Causes Cellulite.........................................................................................247
Fat-Busting Lotions, Creams, and Extracts Galore...............................................248
Agrimonia eupatoria leaf extract.......................................................................248
Aminophylline and Theophylline....................................................................248
Atractyloydes lancea root extract.......................................................................249
Bupleurum falcatum extract.............................................................................249
Caffeine..........................................................................................................249
Carnitine........................................................................................................250
Escin...............................................................................................................250


AHAs and BHA..............................................................................................251
Ginkgo biloba leaf extract................................................................................251
Hesperidin......................................................................................................251
Malva sylvestris extract.....................................................................................251
Panax ginseng root extract................................................................................252
Paullinia cupana seed extract...........................................................................252
Pisum sativum.................................................................................................252
Plectranthus barbatus extract............................................................................252
Porphyridium cruentum extract........................................................................252
Retinoids........................................................................................................253
Ruscogenine....................................................................................................253

Santalum album seed extract...........................................................................253
Terminalia sericea extract.................................................................................253
Ulva lactuca extract.........................................................................................254
Uncaria tomentosa extract................................................................................254
Visnaga vera extract.........................................................................................254
Mesotherapy........................................................................................................254
Endermologie......................................................................................................255
Non-Ablative Lasers, Light Systems, and Radio Frequency..................................256
Electrical Muscle Stimulators and Iontophoresis Devices.....................................257
Body Wrapping...................................................................................................258
Skin Patches.........................................................................................................258
Liposuction..........................................................................................................259

Chapter Twenty One—Solutions for
Wounds, Scars, or Stretch Marks
The Basics............................................................................................................261
How Skin Heals...................................................................................................261
What to Do When Your Skin Is Injured..............................................................262
After the Wound Has Healed...............................................................................263
Vitamin E for Scars?............................................................................................264
Keloid and Hypertrophic Scarring.......................................................................265
Silicone Sheets for Keloidal Scarring....................................................................265
Stretch Marks......................................................................................................266
Needling..............................................................................................................267
Mederma.............................................................................................................268
What About Scars from Acne?.............................................................................269


Chapter Twenty Two—Solutions for
Allergy-Prone Skin

The Basics............................................................................................................271
What Is Happening?............................................................................................271
What Can You Be Allergic To?.............................................................................271
Hypoallergenic?...................................................................................................272
What You Can Do...............................................................................................272

Chapter Twenty Three—Should You Get a Facial?
What Does a Facial Do?.......................................................................................275
What Spa Services Make Sense?...........................................................................276
Microdermabrasion.............................................................................................276
Lymph Drainage..................................................................................................277
Detoxing the Sham of Detoxing..........................................................................278
What Toxins Are Being Detoxed?.........................................................................279
Snake Oil at Its Best.............................................................................................279
Dermatologists in the Spa Business......................................................................281

Chapter Twenty Four—Hair Removal
Way Too Much Hair............................................................................................283
Hair-Brained Ideas?.............................................................................................283
Depilatories.........................................................................................................284
Waxing................................................................................................................284
Sugaring..............................................................................................................285
Tweezing or Threading........................................................................................285
Bleaching.............................................................................................................286
Electrolysis...........................................................................................................286
Home Electrolysis................................................................................................287
Shaving................................................................................................................287
Laser Hair Removal.............................................................................................287
At-Home Lasers? Maybe!.....................................................................................288
Vaniqa.................................................................................................................289

Hair-Removal Warning!.......................................................................................290


Chapter Twenty Five—Growing Hair
Hair Growth Scams.............................................................................................291
How Does Hair Grow?........................................................................................291
Why Does Hair Stop Growing?...........................................................................293
Male Pattern Baldness..........................................................................................294
Blood Flow and Hair Loss...................................................................................295
Can They Really Stop Hair Loss?.........................................................................295
Minoxidil.............................................................................................................296
Propecia...............................................................................................................297
Saw Palmetto.......................................................................................................298
Tretinoin..............................................................................................................299
Azelaic Acid.........................................................................................................299
Tagamet...............................................................................................................299
Ketoconazole.......................................................................................................299
Hormone Blockers...............................................................................................300
Birth-Control Pills...............................................................................................300
Melatonin............................................................................................................301
Hair Transplants..................................................................................................301
Bald Busting—Scams or Solutions?.....................................................................302
Growing Eyelashes—A Behind-the-Scenes Exposé...............................................302

Chapter Twenty Six—Medical Cosmetic
Corrective Procedures
Skin Care Alone Won’t Do It...............................................................................305
One Procedure Is Not Enough.............................................................................306
Everyone’s Face Is Different.................................................................................306
When to Have a Procedure..................................................................................307

Strategic Planning................................................................................................307
Looking Younger: A Game Plan...........................................................................308
How to Choose Your Doctor...............................................................................310
There Are Risks...................................................................................................311
What to Ask........................................................................................................312
Pretreatment........................................................................................................312
Possibilities from A to Z......................................................................................313
From the Neck Up...............................................................................................314
Botox (Botulinum Toxin A)............................................................................314

Myobloc (Botulinum Toxin B)........................................................................315
Cheekbone (Malar) Augmentation..................................................................316
Chemical Peels................................................................................................316
Chin Augmentation (Mentoplasty) Chin Reduction.......................................318
Collagen Injections.........................................................................................318
Cosmetic Tattooing.........................................................................................319
Dermabrasion.................................................................................................319
Dermal Fillers.................................................................................................319
Non-Permanent versus Permanent Fillers........................................................320
Animal-Derived Collagen Fillers . ...............................................................321

Human-Derived Collagen or Donor Fillers ................................................321
Bioengineered Human Collagen Fillers . .....................................................322
Fat Transfer Fillers ......................................................................................323
Hyaluronic Acid Derived Fillers .................................................................324
Fascian Fillers .............................................................................................324
Synthetic Grafts/Implants . .........................................................................325
Artecoll ......................................................................................................325
Silicone Injections ......................................................................................326
Sculptra/Newfill .........................................................................................327
Radiesse . ....................................................................................................327
Ear Surgery (Otoplasty)..................................................................................328
Eyelid Surgery (Blepharoplasty).......................................................................328
Face-Lift (Rhytidectomy)................................................................................328
Classic or Traditional Face-Lift ...................................................................329
SMAS-Lift (Superficial Musculoaponeurotic System)..................................329
Subperiosteal Lift.........................................................................................330
Neck Lift.....................................................................................................330
S-Lift or Mini-Lift.......................................................................................330
Temporal Lift..............................................................................................331
Deep-Plane Lift...........................................................................................331
Fat Implants................................................................................................331
Forehead Lift..................................................................................................331
Endoscopic Face-Lift or Brow Lift...............................................................331
Forehead Lift (Brow Lift—Transblepharoplasty Brow Lift)..........................332
Subcutaneous Brow and Forehead Lift.........................................................333
Photorejuvenation Lasers, Intense Pulsed Light
& Other Energy Producing Devices.............................................................333


What Photorejuvenation Does........................................................................334

The Equipment..............................................................................................335
Lip Augmentation or Reduction.....................................................................337
Microdermabrasion.........................................................................................338
Nose Reshaping (Rhinoplasty)........................................................................338
From the Neck Down..........................................................................................339
Abdominoplasty (Tummy Tuck).....................................................................339
Arm Lift (Brachioplasty).................................................................................339
Breast Implants, Breast Augmentation (Augmentation Mammoplasty)...........339
Breast Lift (Mastopexy)...................................................................................342
Breast Reduction (Reduction Mammoplasty)..................................................342
Breast Reconstruction (Tram Flap or Procedure).............................................343
Buttock Lift....................................................................................................343
Calf Augmentation.........................................................................................344
Liposuction.....................................................................................................344
Sclerotherapy..................................................................................................345
Removing Varicose Veins................................................................................346
Thigh Lift.......................................................................................................347

Chapter Twenty Seven—Body & Nail Care
From the Neck Down..........................................................................................349
Spa Treatments....................................................................................................350
The Joy of Bathing...............................................................................................351
Body Washes........................................................................................................354
Body Scrubs.........................................................................................................355
Antibacterial Cleansers.........................................................................................355
Bath Oils.............................................................................................................356
Bath Salts.............................................................................................................357
Aromatherapy......................................................................................................357
Perfume and Its Mysteries....................................................................................358
Smoothest Legs in the World...............................................................................360

Preventing Red Bumps After Shaving..................................................................361
What Are All Those Bumps on My Arms and Legs?.............................................362
Blemishes, Wrinkles, Skin Discolorations, Dry Skin,
Sun Protection, and More..................................................................................362
Seriously Dry Hands............................................................................................362
Body Itches..........................................................................................................363


Hard as Nails.......................................................................................................364
Fluoride..........................................................................................................365
Calcium..........................................................................................................366
Cuticle Care.........................................................................................................366
Manicures and Pedicures......................................................................................367
Nail Polish That Lasts..........................................................................................369
Fake Nails—Real Problems..................................................................................370
Nail Strengtheners...............................................................................................371
Nail Do’s and Don’ts............................................................................................371
When the Nail Gets Sick.....................................................................................372
Ingrown Nails......................................................................................................373
Corns, Calluses, and Bunions..............................................................................374
No More Dry, Callused Heels..............................................................................375
Athlete’s Foot.......................................................................................................376

Chapter Twenty Eight—Problems? Solutions!
When Should I Throw Out a Product?................................................................377
Dark Circles........................................................................................................378
Lashes Falling Out...............................................................................................378
Self-Tanner Mishaps............................................................................................379
Small Lips............................................................................................................380
Flaking Eyeshadow..............................................................................................381

Bleeding Lipstick.................................................................................................381
Bloodshot Eyes....................................................................................................381
Puffy Eyes............................................................................................................382
Chapped Lips......................................................................................................383
Dry Skin Around the Lips...................................................................................384
Perioral Dermatitis—Red Bumps Around the Mouth..........................................384
Expensive versus Inexpensive...............................................................................385
Using Different Products from Different Lines....................................................386
Feeling Beautiful During the Trauma of Cancer...................................................387
Foundation Settling into Pores and Lines.............................................................389
Eyelash Dyes........................................................................................................390
Seasonal Changes.................................................................................................391
Whiter Teeth.......................................................................................................391
Skin Tags.............................................................................................................393
Sebaceous Hyperplasia.........................................................................................394


Chapter Twenty Nine—Making Sense of Makeup
Makeup: A Philosophical Approach.....................................................................397
Should You Judge a Book by Its Cover?................................................................398
Why Wear Makeup?............................................................................................398
Dressing Your FaceÂ�—What’s in Fashion?..............................................................398
Does Makeup Change with Age?.........................................................................399
Where to Begin....................................................................................................400
Before You Start...................................................................................................401
Less Is Best!..........................................................................................................401
Primers................................................................................................................401
The Classic Face..................................................................................................402
Concealer............................................................................................................402
Types of Concealers........................................................................................404

Techniques for Blending Concealer.................................................................406
Concealer Mistakes to Avoid...........................................................................406
Foundation..........................................................................................................407
Finding the Perfect Foundation Color.............................................................407
Exception to the Rule of Matching Skin Color...............................................408
The Final Decision.........................................................................................409
Where to Shop................................................................................................409
Types of Foundation.......................................................................................410
Blending Foundation......................................................................................414
Blending over Those Fine Little Wrinkles........................................................416
Foundation Mistakes to Avoid........................................................................416
Brushes................................................................................................................417
Brush Quality and Care..................................................................................419
Brush Techniques............................................................................................420
Brush Tips to Remember................................................................................421
Powder.................................................................................................................421
Types of Powder..............................................................................................421
Talc in Face Powders: Friend or Foe?...............................................................423
Mineral Makeup..................................................................................................423
Powder Mistakes to Avoid...............................................................................426
Eyeshadow...........................................................................................................426
Types of Eyeshadow........................................................................................427
Using Brushes to Apply Eyeshadow.................................................................427


Designing the Eye Makeup..................................................................................427
Applying an Eye-Makeup Design....................................................................428
Eyeshadow Tips..............................................................................................431
Eye-Design Mistakes to Avoid.........................................................................431
Eyeliner...............................................................................................................432

Types of Eyeliner.............................................................................................432
Applying Eyeliner............................................................................................434
Checking for Mistakes....................................................................................435
Eyeliner Mistakes to Avoid..............................................................................435
Mascara...............................................................................................................436
Types of Mascara.............................................................................................436
Applying Mascara...........................................................................................437
False Eyelashes................................................................................................438
Mascara Mistakes to Avoid..............................................................................438
Eye Makeup—Is It Safe?......................................................................................438
Eyebrow Shaping and Shading.............................................................................438
Shaping the Eyebrows.....................................................................................439
Steps to Shaping a Perfect Brow......................................................................440
Types of Eyebrow Products and Application....................................................440
What Eyebrow Color Should You Use?...........................................................441
Eyebrow Mistakes to Avoid.............................................................................442
Contouring..........................................................................................................442
Types of Contour............................................................................................443
Applying Contour...........................................................................................443
Contour Mistakes to Avoid.............................................................................445
Blush...................................................................................................................445
Types of Blush................................................................................................446
Applying Blush and Contouring.....................................................................446
Choosing a Blush Color..................................................................................447
Blush Mistakes to Avoid..................................................................................447
Lipstick and Lip Pencil........................................................................................447
Types of Lipstick.............................................................................................448
Choosing Lip Colors.......................................................................................448
Applying Lip Color.........................................................................................449
Lipstick and Lip Pencil Mistakes to Avoid.......................................................450

Touching Up.......................................................................................................450


Turning Daytime Makeup into Night..................................................................451
Balance, Proportion, and Detail...........................................................................451
Choosing Color...................................................................................................453
Color Mistakes to Avoid.................................................................................453
Correcting Some Popular Makeup Myths............................................................454
The Beauty Industry’s Effect on Girls..................................................................455

Chapter Thirty—Animal Rights
Beauty versus Animal Rights................................................................................457


Note from the Publisher
The intent of this book is to present the author’s research, ideas, and perceptions regarding skin care, makeup, cosmetic surgical procedures, and the marketing, selling, and use of
cosmetics and skin-care products. The author’s sole purpose is to provide consumers with
information and advice regarding skin care, the purchase of beauty products, and cosmetic
procedures. The recommendations presented are strictly those of the author, reflecting the
author’s opinions about the subjects and the products described. Some women may find
success with a skin-care routine or product that is not mentioned herein. It is everyone’s
inalienable right to choose and to judge products and procedures on the basis of their own
criteria, research, and standards, and to disagree with the author. More important, because
everyone’s skin can react differently to external stimuli, any product can cause a negative
reaction. If you develop sensitivity to a skin-care product or cosmetic, stop using it immediately and consult your physician. If you need medical advice regarding your skin or the
various cosmetic procedures available, it is best to consult a dermatologist, board-certified
plastic surgeon, or your own medical practitioner.