Europe for dummies 3rd edition

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Europe
FOR

DUMmIES

‰

3RD

EDITION

by Reid Bramblett


Europe For Dummies,® 3rd Edition
Published by
Wiley Publishing, Inc.
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Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774
www.wiley.com

Copyright © 2005 by Wiley Publishing, Inc., Indianapolis, Indiana
Published simultaneously in Canada
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1


About the Author
Reid Bramblett has lived in Europe on and off since the age of
11, and is the author of ten travel guides, including Frommer’s
Tuscany & Umbria and Frommer’s Northern Italy. He is Associate
Editor of Budget Travel magazine, the creator of the awardwinning TravelTools.net, and a contributor of travel articles
to such publications as Newsweek, The Miami Herald, and the
Dallas Morning News. When not on the road, he splits his time
between New York and his native Philadelphia.



Dedication
This book is dedicated to Frances C. Sayers, who is largely
responsible for it being (a) finished, and (b) accurate.

Author’s Acknowledgments
My editor, Christine Ryan, did an excellent job of pointing out
all the many, many places where what I originally wrote was
confusing, out of place, or simply defied all laws of physics.
Readers have her to thank for any coherence they might find
within these pages. My parents first brought me to Europe
(kicking and screaming) at the age of 11 to live in Rome, and
proceeded to teach me all about vagabonding around the
Continent over the next two years. These pages are, in large

part, just me cribbing from those two masters at the art of
travel. James Sayers and Matt Finley have both contributed
greatly to this book over its various editions — I made them
do all the difficult bits — and are both living proof that no one
really lasts more than one season as a travel writer’s assistant.
And finally, my gratitude to Boy Scout Troop 116, which — over
the course of three weeks in the summer of 2000 — reminded
me (a) of all those minor aspects of life on the road we travel
writers take for granted yet would save first-timers hours of
agony and confusion if only someone would have warned them
first, and (b) that the promise to lead a group of teenage boys
across Europe is a serious thing and should probably never be
agreed upon after one’s sixth pint of Guinness.


Publisher’s Acknowledgments
We’re proud of this book; please send us your comments through our
Dummies online registration form located at www.dummies.com/register/.
Some of the people who helped bring this book to market include the
following:
Editorial
Editors: Elizabeth Kuball and
Christine Ryan
Copy Editor: Elizabeth Kuball
Cartographer: Elizabeth Puhl
Editorial Manager:
Carmen Krikorian
Editorial Assistant: Nadine Bell
Senior Photo Editor: Richard Fox
Cover Photos: Front, Bob Krist/

eStock Photo; back, Larry Fisher/
Masterfile
Cartoons: Rich Tennant,

Composition
Project Coordinator: Kristie Rees
Layout and Graphics:
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www.the5thwave.com

Publishing and Editorial for Consumer Dummies
Diane Graves Steele, Vice President and Publisher, Consumer Dummies
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Publishing for Technology Dummies
Andy Cummings, Vice President and Publisher, Dummies

Technology/General User
Composition Services
Gerry Fahey, Vice President of Production Services
Debbie Stailey, Director of Composition Services


Contents at a Glance
Introduction...................................................1
Part I: Introducing Europe .............................7
Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Europe ............................9
Chapter 2: Deciding Where and When to Go ......................17
Chapter 3: Presenting Five Great Itineraries ........................31

Part II: Planning Your Trip to Europe ............43
Chapter 4: Managing Your Money ........................................45
Chapter 5: Getting to Europe ................................................64
Chapter 6: Getting Around Europe ........................................71
Chapter 7: Booking Your Accommodations ........................90
Chapter 8: Catering to Special Travel Needs
or Interests ......................................................................103
Chapter 9: Taking Care of the Remaining Details ..............109

Part III: The British Isles ...........................125
Chapter 10: London and the Best of England ....................127
Chapter 11: Edinburgh and the Best of Scotland ..............164
Chapter 12: Dublin and the Best of Ireland ........................189

Part IV: Central Europe ..............................217
Chapter 13: Paris and Environs ..........................................219
Chapter 14: Amsterdam and Environs ................................256

Chapter 15: Munich and Bavaria ........................................284
Chapter 16: Vienna and the Best of Austria ......................307
Chapter 17: Bern and the Swiss Alps ..................................331
Chapter 18: Prague and Environs ........................................359

Part V: Mediterranean Europe ....................385
Chapter 19: Rome and Southern Italy ................................387
Chapter 20: Florence and the Tuscany Region ..................420
Chapter 21: Venice and Environs ........................................452
Chapter 22: Madrid and the Best of Castile ......................481
Chapter 23: The Best of Barcelona ......................................508
Chapter 24: Athens and the Greek Islands ........................529


Part VI: The Part of Tens ............................561
Chapter 25: The Ten Most Overrated Sights
and Attractions in Europe ..............................................563
Chapter 26: Ten Overlooked Gems ......................................566
Chapter 27: The Top Ten Gifts for $20 or Less ..................571
Chapter 28: Ten Ways to Break Out of
the Tourist Mold ..............................................................574

Appendix: Quick Concierge ........................578
Index ........................................................589


Maps at a Glance
Europe ..................................................................................................10
Europe’s Primary Train Routes ........................................................74
England ..............................................................................................129

Accommodations, Dining, and Attractions
in Central London ......................................................................136
Scotland ............................................................................................166
Accommodations, Dining, and Attractions in Edinburgh............170
Ireland ................................................................................................191
Accommodations, Dining, and Attractions in Dublin ..................196
County Kerry ....................................................................................212
France ................................................................................................221
Paris Neighborhoods........................................................................222
Accommodations, Dining, and Attractions in Paris ....................230
Holland (The Netherlands)..............................................................258
Accommodations, Dining, and Attractions
in Central Amsterdam ..............................................................264
Germany ............................................................................................285
Accommodations, Dining, and Attractions in Munich ................290
Austria................................................................................................309
Accommodations, Dining, and Attractions in Vienna ..................312
Switzerland ........................................................................................333
Accommodations, Dining, and Attractions in Bern......................335
The Bernese Oberland ....................................................................348
The Czech Republic..........................................................................361
Accommodations, Dining, and Attractions in Prague ..................364
Side Trips from Prague ....................................................................380
Italy ....................................................................................................389
Accommodations, Dining, and Attractions in Rome ....................394
Accommodations, Dining, and Attractions in Florence ..............426
Tuscany..............................................................................................443
Accommodations, Dining, and Attractions in Venice ..................460
Spain ..................................................................................................483
Accommodations, Dining, and Attractions in Madrid ................486

Accommodations, Dining, and Attractions in Barcelona ............512
Greece ................................................................................................531
Accommodations, Dining, and Attractions in Athens..................538
Santoríni ............................................................................................554



Table of Contents
Introduction..................................................1
About This Book ..............................................................1
Conventions Used in This Book ....................................2
Foolish Assumptions ......................................................3
How This Book Is Organized ..........................................3
Part I: Introducing Europe ...................................4
Part II: Planning Your Trip to Europe .................4
Part III: The British Isles .......................................4
Part IV: Central Europe .........................................4
Part V: Mediterranean Europe .............................4
Part VI: The Part of Tens ......................................5
Icons Used in This Book .................................................5
Where to Go from Here ...................................................6

Part I: Introducing Europe .............................7
Chapter 1: Discovering the Best of Europe .............9
The Top Museums .........................................................12
The Top Historic Sights ................................................13
The Top Culinary Delights ...........................................14
The Architectural Highlights .......................................15

Chapter 2: Deciding Where and When to Go .......17

Going Everywhere You Want to Be .............................17
The splendors of the British Isles .....................17
The heart of the Continent ................................18
The charms of the Mediterranean ....................19
The Secret of the Seasons ............................................21
Europe’s Calendar of Events ........................................23
Tips for Successful Trip Planning ...............................26
Seeing it all without going nuts .........................26
Staying sane on the museum trail .....................27
Dealing with cultural overload ..........................29
How to Schedule Your Time .........................................30

Chapter 3: Presenting Five Great Itineraries ........31
The Everything-but-the-Kitchen-Sink-inTwo-Weeks Tour ........................................................32
The Three-Week Grand Tour of Europe ......................34
Two Weeks in Europe for Lovers of Art ......................35


xiv

Europe For Dummies, 3rd Edition
A Week of Romance, European Style ..........................37
A Week in Europe the Kids Will Love ..........................39

Part II: Planning Your Trip to Europe ...........43
Chapter 4: Managing Your Money ..........................45
Planning Your Budget ...................................................46
(Not) Worrying About the Cost ...................................48
Keeping a Lid on Hidden Expenses .............................48
Cutting Costs — but Not the Fun ................................49

Planning ................................................................49
Transportation ....................................................50
Lodging .................................................................50
Dining ....................................................................51
Attractions/shopping .........................................52
Handling Money .............................................................53
Using your ATM card ..........................................53
Pulling out the plastic .........................................54
Cashing traveler’s checks ..................................55
Exchanging Money at the Best Rate ...........................56
Buying Currency before You Leave .............................57
Paying and Redeeming the VAT ...................................58
Avoiding Theft ...............................................................58
Hazard #1: The pickpocket ................................59
Hazard #2: The scam artist ................................60
Keeping Valuables Safe on Trains ...............................61
Coping with a Stolen Wallet .........................................62

Chapter 5: Getting to Europe ....................................64
Seeking a Travel Agent’s Advice ..................................64
Exploring Package-Tour Possibilities .........................65
Comparing packages ..........................................65
Hunting down the deals .....................................66
Joining an Escorted Tour .............................................67
Making Your Own Arrangements ................................68
Booking your flight .............................................68
Shopping for the best airfare .............................68
Booking your flight online ..................................69

Chapter 6: Getting Around Europe ..........................71

Flying Around Europe ...................................................71
Taking the Train .............................................................73
Figuring out the basics of train travel ..............73
Saving time and money with rail passes ..........78
Navigating the train station ...............................82
Floating to Your Destination by Ferry ........................84


Table of Contents
Getting Around by Bus .................................................84
Driving in Europe ..........................................................85
Obtaining an International Driver’s Permit .....85
Knowing when to rent a car ...............................85
Saving time and money on rental cars .............86
Understanding European road rules ................89

Chapter 7: Booking Your Accommodations ..........90
Understanding European Hotels .................................90
The bathroom: The big culture shock ..............91
The shower: Another new adventure ...............92
That extra thing: Not a toilet .............................92
Finding the Best Room at the Best Rate .....................92
Comparing room rates and ratings ...................92
Making reservations ...........................................94
Using a hotel booking service ...........................95
Surfing the Web for hotel deals .........................96
Finding deals at the last minute ........................97
Discovering Other Options ..........................................99
The most popular alternatives ..........................99
Hostels and other bargain options .................100

Chapter 8: Catering to Special Travel Needs
or Interests ............................................................103
Traveling with the Brood: Advice for Families ........103
Making Age Work for You: Advice for Seniors .........104
Accessing Europe: Advice for Travelers
with Disabilities .......................................................106
Following the Rainbow: Advice for Gay and
Lesbian Travelers ....................................................107

Chapter 9: Taking Care of the Remaining
Details ....................................................................109
Getting a Passport .......................................................109
Applying for a U.S. passport ............................110
Applying for other passports ..........................110
Playing It Safe with Travel and Medical
Insurance ..................................................................111
Staying Healthy When You Travel .............................113
Dealing with European Health Care ..........................114
Making Reservations for Popular Restaurants,
Events, and Sights ...................................................115
Packing It Up ................................................................116
Dressing like the locals .....................................116
Sporting money belts .......................................117
Traveling without electronics .........................117

xv


xvi

Europe For Dummies, 3rd Edition
Mastering Communication .........................................117
Calling Europe from the United States ...........118
Calling home from Europe ...............................118
Using European pay phones ............................119
Staying connected by cellphone .....................119
Accessing the Internet in Europe ....................120
Keeping Up with Airline Security Measures ............122
Bringing Your Goodies Back Home ...........................124

Part III: The British Isles ..........................125
Chapter 10: London and the Best of England ......127
Getting There ...............................................................127
Arriving by air ...................................................128
Arriving by rail ..................................................128
Orienting Yourself in London .....................................128
Introducing the neighborhoods ......................129
Finding information after you arrive ..............131
Getting Around London ..............................................131
By Tube (subway) .............................................132
By bus .................................................................132
By taxi .................................................................133
By foot ................................................................133
Staying in London ........................................................133
London’s top hotels and B&Bs ........................134
London’s runner-up accommodations ...........139
Dining in London .........................................................140
London’s top restaurants .................................141
London’s runner-up restaurants .....................143

Exploring London ........................................................145
London’s top sights ..........................................145
More cool things to see and do .......................150
Guided tours ......................................................153
Suggested itineraries ........................................153
Traveling Beyond London ..........................................155
Bath: Ancient Rome in Georgian clothing ......155
Salisbury and Stonehenge: A mix
of the Gothic and prehistoric ......................157
Oxford: The original college town ..................159
Fast Facts: London ......................................................161

Chapter 11: Edinburgh and the Best
of Scotland ............................................................164
Getting There ...............................................................165
Arriving by air ...................................................165
Arriving by train or bus ....................................165


Table of Contents

xvii

Orienting Yourself in Edinburgh ................................165
Introducing the neighborhoods ......................165
Finding information after you arrive ..............167
Getting Around Edinburgh .........................................167
By bus .................................................................167
By taxi .................................................................167
By foot ................................................................167

Staying in Edinburgh ...................................................167
Edinburgh’s top hotels and B&Bs ...................168
Edinburgh’s runner-up accommodations ......172
Dining in Edinburgh ....................................................172
Edinburgh’s Top Restaurants ....................................173
Edinburgh’s runner-up restaurants ................175
Exploring Edinburgh ...................................................175
Edinburgh’s top sights .....................................175
More cool things to see and do .......................178
Guided tours ......................................................180
Suggested itineraries ........................................180
Traveling Beyond Edinburgh .....................................181
On Nessie’s trail: Inverness and Loch Ness ....181
Glasgow: A Victorian industrial city
discovers culture ..........................................184
Fast Facts: Edinburgh .................................................186

Chapter 12: Dublin and the Best of Ireland .........189
Getting There ...............................................................190
Arriving by air ...................................................190
Arriving by land .................................................190
Orienting Yourself in Dublin ......................................190
Introducing the neighborhoods ......................190
Finding information after you arrive ..............192
Getting Around Dublin ................................................192
By bus .................................................................192
By DART (light rail) ...........................................193
By taxi .................................................................193
By foot ................................................................193
Staying in Dublin .........................................................194

Dublin’s top hotels ............................................194
Dublin’s runner-up accommodations .............198
Dining in Dublin ...........................................................198
Dublin’s top restaurants ...................................200
Dublin’s runner-up restaurants .......................201
Exploring Dublin ..........................................................202
Dublin’s top sights ............................................202
More cool things to see and do .......................206


xviii

Europe For Dummies, 3rd Edition
Guided tours ......................................................208
Suggested itineraries ........................................208
Traveling the Irish Countryside ................................209
North of Dublin to passage tombs and
ruined medieval abbeys ...............................209
South of Dublin: Mansions and monasteries
in County Wicklow ........................................210
Fast Facts: Dublin ........................................................213

Part IV: Central Europe .............................217
Chapter 13: Paris and Environs .............................219
Getting There ...............................................................220
Arriving by air ...................................................220
Arriving by rail ..................................................220
Orienting Yourself in Paris .........................................221
Introducing the neighborhoods ......................224
Finding information after you arrive ..............225

Getting Around Paris ..................................................225
By Métro (subway) and RER ............................226
By bus .................................................................226
By taxi .................................................................227
By foot ................................................................227
Staying in Paris ............................................................227
Paris’s top hotels ..............................................228
Paris’s runner-up accommodations ................233
Dining in Paris ..............................................................234
Paris’s top restaurants .....................................235
Paris’s runner-up restaurants ..........................238
Exploring Paris ............................................................239
Paris’s top sights ...............................................239
More cool things to see and do .......................244
Guided tours ......................................................248
Suggested itineraries ........................................248
Traveling Beyond Paris ..............................................249
Versailles: Palace of the Sun King ...................250
Chartres Cathedral: A Gothic masterpiece ....251
Fast Facts: Paris ...........................................................253

Chapter 14: Amsterdam and Environs ..................256
Getting There ...............................................................257
Arriving by air ...................................................257
Arriving by rail ..................................................258


Table of Contents
Orienting Yourself in Amsterdam ..............................259
Introducing the neighborhoods ......................259

Finding information after you arrive ..............260
Getting Around Amsterdam .......................................260
By bus .................................................................260
By taxi .................................................................261
By tram ...............................................................262
By foot ................................................................262
By bike ................................................................262
Staying in Amsterdam .................................................262
Amsterdam’s top hotels and B&Bs .................263
Amsterdam’s runner-up accommodations ....266
Dining in Amsterdam ..................................................267
Amsterdam’s top restaurants ..........................268
Amsterdam’s runner-up restaurants ..............269
Exploring Amsterdam .................................................270
Amsterdam’s top sights ...................................270
More cool things to see and do .......................274
Guided tours ......................................................276
Suggested itineraries ........................................276
Traveling Beyond Amsterdam ...................................277
Discovering the other Haarlem .......................277
Stopping to admire the tulips ..........................278
Tilting at windmills ...........................................279
Biking to the Kröller-Müller Museum .............280
Fast Facts: Amsterdam ...............................................281

Chapter 15: Munich and Bavaria ..........................284
Getting There ...............................................................284
Arriving by air ...................................................284
Arriving by train ................................................285
Orienting Yourself in Munich .....................................286

Introducing the neighborhoods ......................286
Finding information after you arrive ..............286
Getting Around Munich ....................................286
Staying in Munich ........................................................288
Munich’s top hotels ..........................................288
Munich’s runner-up accommodations ...........292
Dining in Munich .........................................................292
Munich’s top restaurants .................................293
Munich’s runner-up restaurants .....................294
Exploring Munich ........................................................295
Munich’s top sights ...........................................296
More cool things to see and do .......................299

xix


xx

Europe For Dummies, 3rd Edition
Guided tours ......................................................300
Suggested itineraries ........................................300
Traveling Beyond Munich ..........................................301
Neuschwanstein: Mad King Ludwig’s
fairy-tale castle ..............................................301
The Nazi concentration camp at Dachau .......304
Fast Facts: Munich ......................................................305

Chapter 16: Vienna and the Best of Austria ........307
Getting There ...............................................................307
Arriving by air ...................................................308

Arriving by rail ..................................................308
Orienting Yourself in Vienna ......................................308
Introducing the neighborhoods ......................308
Finding information after you arrive ..............309
Getting Around Vienna ...............................................310
By U-Bahn (subway) .........................................310
By tram or bus ...................................................310
By taxi .................................................................310
Staying in Vienna .........................................................311
Vienna’s top hotels ...........................................311
Vienna’s runner-up accommodations ............315
Dining in Vienna ..........................................................316
Vienna’s top restaurants ..................................317
Vienna’s runner-up restaurants ......................319
Exploring Vienna .........................................................319
Vienna’s top sights ............................................320
More cool things to see and do .......................322
Guided tours ......................................................324
Suggested itineraries ........................................325
Traveling Beyond Vienna: Innsbruck ........................326
Getting there ......................................................326
Seeing the sights ...............................................327
Where to stay and dine ....................................328
Fast Facts: Vienna ........................................................328

Chapter 17: Bern and the Swiss Alps ..................331
Getting There ...............................................................331
Arriving by air ...................................................331
Arriving by rail ..................................................332
Orienting Yourself in Bern ..........................................332

Introducing the neighborhoods ......................332
Finding information after you arrive ..............332
Getting Around Bern ...................................................332
By tram and bus ................................................334
By taxi .................................................................334
By foot ................................................................334


Table of Contents
Staying in Bern .............................................................334
Bern’s top hotels ...............................................334
Bern’s runner-up accommodations ................336
Dining in Bern ..............................................................337
Bern’s top restaurants ......................................338
Bern’s runner-up restaurants ..........................339
Exploring Bern .............................................................340
Bern’s top sights ...............................................340
More cool things to see and do .......................341
Guided tours ......................................................343
Suggested itineraries ........................................343
Traveling Beyond Bern ...............................................344
Zurich: Swiss counterculture meets
high finance ....................................................344
Basel: Three, three, three countries in one! ....346
Visiting the Bernese Oberland ...................................347
Getting there ......................................................348
Finding information ..........................................349
Learning the lay of the land .............................349
Getting around the Bernese Oberland ...........350
Staying in the Bernese Oberland ....................350

Dining in the Bernese Oberland ......................351
Exploring the Bernese Oberland .....................353
Fast Facts: Bern ...........................................................356

Chapter 18: Prague and Environs ..........................359
Arriving by air ...................................................360
Arriving by rail ..................................................360
Orienting Yourself in Prague ......................................360
Introducing the neighborhoods ......................361
Finding information after you arrive ..............362
Getting Around Prague ...............................................362
By Metro (subway) ...........................................362
By tram and bus ................................................362
By taxi .................................................................363
Staying in Prague .........................................................363
Prague’s top hotels ...........................................366
Prague’s runner-up accommodations ............367
Dining in Prague ..........................................................368
Prague’s top restaurants ..................................369
Prague’s runner-up restaurants ......................370
Exploring Prague .........................................................371
Prague’s top sights ............................................371
More cool things to see and do .......................376
Guided tours ......................................................377
Suggested itineraries ........................................378

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Europe For Dummies, 3rd Edition
Traveling Beyond Prague ...........................................379
Medieval Karlstejn Castle ................................379
The Nazi camp at Terezín ................................381
Fast Facts: Prague .......................................................382

Part V: Mediterranean Europe ...................385
Chapter 19: Rome and Southern Italy ...................387
Getting There ...............................................................388
Arriving by air ...................................................388
Arriving by rail ..................................................388
Orienting Yourself in Rome ........................................388
Introducing the neighborhoods ......................389
Finding information after you arrive ..............391
Getting Around Rome .................................................391
By subway ..........................................................391
By bus .................................................................391
By taxi .................................................................392
By foot ................................................................392
Staying in Rome ...........................................................392
Rome’s top hotels .............................................392
Rome’s runner-up accommodations ..............396
Dining in Rome ............................................................397
Rome’s top restaurants ....................................399
Rome’s runner-up restaurants ........................401
Exploring Rome ...........................................................402
Rome’s top attractions .....................................403
More cool things to see and do .......................410
Guided tours ......................................................413

Suggested itineraries ........................................413
Traveling Beyond Rome .............................................414
Tivoli: The villas of Roman emperors,
princes, and popes ........................................414
Ostia Antica: Not quite Pompeii, but
much closer ...................................................415
Fast Facts: Rome ..........................................................416

Chapter 20: Florence and the Tuscany Region ...420
Getting There ...............................................................421
Arriving by air ...................................................421
Arriving by rail ..................................................421
Orienting Yourself in Florence ...................................421
Introducing the neighborhoods ......................422
Finding information after you arrive ..............423


Table of Contents

xxiii

Getting Around Florence ............................................423
By bus .................................................................423
By taxi .................................................................423
By foot ................................................................424
Staying in Florence ......................................................424
Florence’s top hotels ........................................425
Florence’s runner-up accommodations .........428
Dining in Florence .......................................................429
Florence’s top restaurants ...............................430

Florence’s runner-up restaurants ...................432
Exploring Florence ......................................................433
Florence’s top attractions ................................433
More cool things to see and do .......................439
Guided tours ......................................................440
Suggested itineraries ........................................440
Traveling Beyond Florence ........................................442
Pisa: The Leaning Tower and more ................442
Siena: A departure from the Renaissance ......445
San Gimignano: Hills and towers ....................448
Fast Facts: Florence ....................................................449

Chapter 21: Venice and Environs ..........................452
Getting There ...............................................................452
Arriving by air ...................................................453
Arriving by boat ................................................453
Arriving by rail ..................................................454
Orienting Yourself in Venice ......................................454
Introducing the neighborhoods ......................454
Finding information after you arrive ..............455
Getting Around Venice ................................................456
By foot ................................................................456
By vaporetto (water bus) .................................456
By traghetto (ferry skiff) ..................................457
By taxi .................................................................457
By gondola .........................................................457
Staying in Venice .........................................................458
Venice’s top hotels ............................................458
Venice’s runner-up accommodations .............462
Dining in Venice ...........................................................463

Venice’s top restaurants ...................................464
Venice’s runner-up restaurants .......................466
Exploring Venice ..........................................................467
Venice’s top attractions ...................................468
More cool things to see and do .......................472
Guided tours ......................................................473
Suggested itineraries ........................................474