IT training BBC good food india 2012 08

✓eat in✴eat out✴eat away
AUGUST 2012
` 100

Delicious
India!
from classic to new
✴ Vicky Ratnani's

chic Indian salads
✴ Manish Mehrotra's
Bihari menu
o
ro
sh
Mu

Flavoured rasams

m

Meetha gone global
Biryanis
on trial

Eat like a
Bengali

Mumbai's
Friends
Union thali

Multiculti
Delhi on
the plate

an
da
loo
ch
aat
sal
ad p
90

Trishna's
step-by-step
butter-garlic
crab p 144


WorldMags.net


WorldMags.net


Big Indian love
Calling India a food paradise is like saying the sea is wet.
Mind-numbing variety in cuisines? We've got it. Spices that
changed the course of history? That too. The world's most

exciting fruit? Yep. Astounding street food, groundbreaking
chefs, swanky restaurants. And curry. Yes, curry.

CURRYLICIOUS!
We salute—and
salivate over—
India’s amazing
curries, p 92

I marvel at the sheer hugeness of our incredible world of
flavours and spices, at how I'll never be able to know it
all. And that's a wonderful thing. This issue is our loving
tribute to the nation. Some reasons to tuck in:
Curries old and new: It's deliciously ironic. The 'authentic'
Indian curry that has rocked the planet from the Balti
houses of Birmingham to the karee raisu stalls of Japan
would be unrecognisable in its country of origin. So what does curry mean to
Indians? Turn to Meher Dasondi's special feature on curries to get a true taste.

curry
It’s got the planet in a spice-crazed swoon. Cook —
and
drool — along with us as we celebrate the sensational
Indian curry in all its punchy hues
Recipes MEHER DASONDI Photographs PRATEEKSH

SHOP

Salads gone desi: At the height of the monsoon when produce is bountiful, it's
fun to kick off some well-worn salad customs and find new roles for beloved

Indian ingredients in them. Chef Vicky Ratnani's modern Indian
salads feature stars of Indian cooking and tweak them subtly,
cleverly, so each dish remains true to a classic salad even while
offering fresh tastes and textures. Uber sexy.
eat in
modern veggie

eat in
modern veggie

MEHRA

Props courtesy GOOD EARTH, FAB INDIA, THE

RASAM RUSH
Our flavoured
rasams are
hot stuff. Like
seriously. P 64

eat in
entertaining

L2 entertaining.indd 92
14/07/12 11:05 AM

this
flavoured versions that tweak
Love rasam? You’ll flip for our
ever so deliciously

fiery tomato classic from the south
Recipes NAREN THIMMAIAH Photographs

‘‘

SUDEEP GURTU

Ask folks from the
south of India what their
comfort food is and the
answer is most likely to be
rasam. This tangy-spicy and
simple dish is famous for
its rejuvenating properties.
It’s a soup for some, a meal
with rice for many or a
palate cleanser before the
main course. Little wonder
then that rasam is popular
all over the country. For this
feature I have shared my
recipe for basic rasam along
with other exciting variants
to suit everyone’s palate –
green mango, pepper and
pineapple rasam.

‘‘

Chef,

Naren Thimmaiah, Executive
The Gateway Hotel, Bengaluru

13/07/12 9:58 PM
Rasam-STAN
13/07/12 9:58 PM 044-047-L3
044-047-L3 Rasam-STAN

Bihar on your plate: Extending the revelry of Anurag Kashyap's
headline-making gamcha party for Gangs of Wasseypur at Cannes,
we spotlight the relatively lesser-known cuisine of Bihar. Indian
Accent chef Manish Mehrotra does the honours with an earthy
menu from his beloved native state. (It was my first encounter
with litti chokha and I’m totally smitten.)

R1.indd 65

R1.indd 64

Little big biryanis: No five-star restaurant offers biryanis to compare to the ones
served in the local eateries of India. You'll spend no more than a couple hundred
rupees, the plates will be strictly functional and you'll drink nimbu pani or lassi
instead of wine or beer. But the biryanis you'll eat here are cooked by masters and
are some of India's most delicious. Turn to p 108.

eat out
spy
restaurant

There's heaps more. From local Indian grains that bring a nutritional boost to the

table to our wonderful homemade achars, from slurp-friendly flavoured rasams
to an easy menu from Bengal.
The owner
of Haji Noor
Mohammed
Biryaniwale,
Haji sahib with
his degh
PM
13/07/12 9:48

058-062-L1

res spy-STAN

R1.indd 108

BIG ON BIRYANI?
It’s the little joints
that serve up the
meanest plates. P 108

To the wonderful people who contributed to this edition, and to you, dear
reader, who will cover it with stains from repeated use, we dedicate this
sumptuous spread.
Please, help yourself.

Sona Bahadur, editor

WorldMags.net

green chilli 3
tsp, chopped
coriander leaves
6g
chaat masala
3 tsp
black salt (kala
namak) 3 tsp
olive oil 15ml
THE MARINA
DE
hung curd 150g
mustard oil 30g
ginger-garlic
paste 30g
red chilli paste
15g
Kashmiri red
chilli powder
3 tsp
garam masala
powder 3 tsp
black salt a pinch
fenugreek (kasuri
methi) 6g
lemon juice to
taste
cumin powder
6g

coriander powder
6g
THE RAITA
beetroot 180g
olive oil
hung curd 1/2
cup
black salt a pinch
chaat masala
2 tsp
dill 3 tsp, chopped
coriander 3 tsp,
chopped
■ Cut the salmon
into neat cubes.
Whisk all the
ingredients together
for
the marinade
. Marinate the
salmon for
30-40 minutes.
■ Cook for 3
minutes on the
grill or
sauté in a hot
pan for 3-4 minutes
with
olive oil. Do not
overcook.

■ To prepare
the dressing,
heat some
olive oil, add
mustard seeds,
cumin
seeds and curry
leaves. Once
they
splutter, add
the onions, ginger,
garlic
and chillies and
cook for a minute
or so.
■ Deglaze the
pan with lime
juice.
Add coconut
milk and simmer
for two
minutes.
■ Cool and blend
the dressing.
Season
it with salt and
pepper.
■ Toss the arugula,
the vegetable
s and

the prawns with
the cooled dressing.
Garnish with
fresh coriander
.
■ PER SERVING
247.17 kcals, protein
12.70g, carbs
10.70g, fat 17.63g,
sat fat
11.35g, fibre 2.70g,
salt 0.3g

Seared salmo
mango chaat n and

Serves 6 ■ 25
minutes + marinatin
g
■ EASY
Tandoori-flavoured
salmon chunks
with the sweetnes
s of silky Alphonso
mangoes make
for a remarkab
le
salad. High in
Omega-3 fatty
acids and

antioxidants,
it scores on the
health
front as well.
The beet yoghurt
is just
the proverbia
l icing on the
cake.
salmon 300g
red bell pepper
150g, roasted
Alphonso mangoes
or any other
sweet, ripe mango
150g
coconut cream
(malai) 60g
raw mangoes
30g

■ Cut the red
bell pepper and
the
mango into cubes.
Tear the malai
into
strips. Slice the
raw mango into
paperthin slices using

a mandolin slicer.
■ Roast or boil
the beetroot
until soft.
Peel and purée
along with the
olive oil,
hung curd, black
salt, chaat masala,
dill leaves and
coriander. Blend
to a
smooth, silky
purée.
■ Pan sear the
salmon for 2
to 3
minutes until
pink but not totally
cooked.
■ Toss with the
fresh coriander
,
chopped chillies,
coconut malai,
peppers and
diced mango.
■ Spoon the
red beet raita
over along

with sprigs of
coriander, dill
and a
drizzle of black
salt, chaat masala
and
olive oil.
■ PER SERVING
582.50 kcals,
protein
26.43g, carbs
27.43g, fat 41.43g,
sat fat
15.50g, fibre 5.75g,
salt 1.9g

L1 weekend.ind

d 86

SALAAM, SALAD!
Make way,
Mr Caesar. Modern
Indian salads are
here! P 82

14/07/12 10:54
AM

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Vinegars


Contents
44

90
Mushroom and
aloo chaat salad
Serves 6 n 40 minutes n EASY
This salad can be enjoyed at hot,
chilled or room temperatures.
The vinegar and chilli add zing. It
can even be used as a filling for a
sandwich or a wrap.
red onion 1/2, sliced
yellow bell pepper 1/2, sliced
red bell pepper 1/2, sliced
garlic cloves 2, peeled and sliced
green chilli 1, sliced
new potatoes 8, cooked and cut
in half
button mushrooms 8 caps, stem
removed
olive oil  1 tbsp
balsamic vinegar 2 tbsp
chilli powder big pinch

thyme leaves 1/2 tsp
parsley 1 tsp, chopped

coriander leaves 2 tsp
salt to taste
pepper to taste
n Sweat the sliced onions, bell
peppers and sliced garlic in
olive oil. Add the green chillies,
potatoes and button mushrooms
and sauté for a minute.
n Deglaze with balsamic vinegar.
Season to taste with the chilli
powder, salt and pepper.
n Add the freshly chopped herbs.
Serve chilled to allow the flavours
to marinate properly.
n PER SERVING 204.5 kcals,
protein 3.9g, carbs 42.62g, fat
2.55g, sat fat 0.38g, fibre 4.48g,
salt none

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122

eat in

eat out

Inspiring, seasonal recipes that
work every time

Restaurants on trial, cafés with
character and signature recipes

44 7 MEALS FOR ` 700

108 RESTAURANT SPY

52 LUNCHBOX

116 PRO VS PUNTER

54 READY IN 30

120 OFF THE EATEN
TRACK

A week’s worth of budget
meals
Smart lunchbox solutions
Quick and easy recipes

64 MODERN VEGGIE

Try our flavoured rasams

72 WEEKEND MENU
A line up of Bihari
delights

82 WEEKEND

In search of the perfect
biryani
Delhi’s Yeti on trial

Mumbai’s Friends Union
Joshi Club thali

123 SIGNATURE DISH
Punjab Grill’s Salmon
Tikkas

Salads with a desi twist

92 ENTERTAINING

The united colours of
curry

102 SHOW-OFF

Anjum Anand’s Indian
desserts

148 SUBSCRIBE to
Good Food India

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PRO vs PUNTER

Feel like the average diner
doesn’t always agree with
professional reviews?
Become our punter in the
‘Pro vs Punter’ section
and review a restaurant
along with a seasoned pro.
To apply, write to us at



August 2012
28 ON TEST

Mango pickles

29 BARGAIN HUNTER

Wallet-friendly food and
drink deals

30 NEED TO KNOW

The punchy world of
Indian achars

34 FOOD ISSUES

129
eat away

Foodie holiday ideas and
recipes from around the world

126 EAT LIKE A LOCAL:
KOLKATA &
DARJEELING

Easy yet standout Bengali
dishes

132 CITY ON THE PLATE:
DELHI

The capital’s multicultural
food scene

137 BUDGET AND
BLOWOUT

A foodie’s guide to
Chennai

140 POSTCARD FROM
BENGALURU

Karen Anand eats her way
through the Garden City

first bite
10 OVER TO YOU

Reader recipes, comments
and letters

21 FIRST BITE

Local Indian grains

24 NEWS, TRENDS AND
SHOPPING
New products, gadgets
we love and more

Good Food investigates
Indian fruit

38 NIGHT OUT

Coffee gets a boozy kick

40 BOOKS & COOKS

This month’s delicious
new reads

41 WHAT’S ON

August’s must-watch food
television

masterclass

97

Shahi mirch bhara paneer

Out & about

JUST A FEW GOOD PLACES TO EAT FEATURED THIS MONTH

143 COOK LIKE A PRO

Kumaon

The handiest microwave
rice cooker

Darjeeling
Delhi

144 CHEF SKILLS

n

Karam Sethi’s step-by-step
Garlic, Black Pepper and
Butter Crab with Paratha

Lucknow

n

n

n
n

Bihar

146 DO IT YOURSELF

Four Indian pickles to try
at home

n

Mumbai

Kolkata

n

147 WINE GUIDE

Vikram Doctor’s pick of
the best Indian wines

150 TOP PRODUCER

Natural preserves and
pickles from Umang

n

Bengaluru

Hyderabad

n
n

Chennai

n

Kochi

154 MY LIFE ON A PLATE
Actor Shazahn Padamsee
on the food she loves

THE BBC GOODFOOD LEGACY

T BBC GoodFood is the UK’s largest selling food magazine with
a readership of over 1.1 million.
T bbcgoodfood.com is the UK’s most popular recipe site
attracting 3.7 million unique users per month.
T The hugely successful iPhone & iPad apps have had over
70,000 downloads till date.

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over to you
readers write

Over to you
For top restaurant, recipe and travel tips, we ask you,
our readers, to keep us on the pulse

Write to us!
We love hearing from you. E-mail us your feedback,
your favourite recipes and your comments at
Let’s be in touch!

FOOD NATION Kochi
Good Food reader Veena Nair shares
her tips on where to eat in her
hometown

GOOD

FOOD
STAR
RECIPE
Chicken narangi do
pyaaza
Serves 8 n 40 minutes + 1 hour for
marinating n EASY
chicken 800g, boneless
salt a pinch
ginger-garlic paste 100g
cinnamon 1-inch piece
cloves 4
cardamom 4
ghee 120g
onions 300g, sliced
baby onions 300g, halved
chilli powder 20g
turmeric powder 20g
tomatoes 200g, finely chopped
yoghurt 160g
cashew paste 60g
oranges 8, 4 juiced and 4 diced
garam masala powder 5g
aniseed (saunf) powder 10g
ginger powder 5g

ginger 20g, julienned
lime wedges to garnish
mint sprigs to garnish
n Dice the chicken and marinate with

salt and ginger-garlic paste. Keep aside
for an hour. Temper the cinnamon,
cloves and cardamom in ghee. Add
sliced onions and baby onions.
n Add chilli powder, turmeric and
fry for 2 minutes. Add the chicken
and sear well. Then add the chopped
tomatoes and cook till the chicken is
done, about 25 minutes.
n Add in the yoghurt, cashew paste
and orange juice. Add garam masala
powder, saunf and ginger powder.
Serve hot garnished with the ginger
juliennes, orange dices and mint sprigs
accompanied with lime wedges.
n PER SERVING 769.65 kcals, protein
80.60g, carbs 37.01g, fat 31.85g, sat fat
10.15g, fibre 7.55g, salt 0.4g

HOW YOU PIMPED IT
I made a fresh plum sauce to add a new dimension to the recipe.
I substituted the boneless chicken with chicken drumsticks and ghee
with olive oil, then baked the chicken after sautéing the masalas and
onions in olive oil. I also cooked the juices from the chicken dish with
the cashew and plum sauce before serving. Ruchi Mathur is a food
blogger who blogs at ruchisimplyfood.blogspot.com.
10 BBC GoodFood

breakfast starts with characteristic south
Indian delicacies like dosas and idlis and

proceeds to lesser-known dishes like idiappam and mutta
curry (string hoppers and egg roast). The best place for
this is the Gokul Oottupura (Tel: +91 484 2203841) chain of
restaurants. Affordable, clean and easily accessible, it is the
best place for an authentic vegetarian breakfast.
T LUNCH Though the traditional ela sadya (a feast
served on a plantain leaf) used to consist of 11 to 24
dishes, today, due to lack of time, we tend to
prefer fewer choices. But the karimeen
pollichathu (spicy fish steamed in
plantain leaf), chemmeen ularthu
(dry roasted prawns), tharavu
varattiyathu (pepper duck) and
mutton piralan (lamb in gravy) still
hold a special place in our hearts.
Try them at Grand Pavilion (Tel: +91
484 2382061) restaurant, at Hotel Grand
on M G Road.
T DINNER Ever heard of Kethel’s chicken? It’s a unique,
patented, tender chicken fry from the Rahmaniya Group
of restaurants. They have four outlets across Kerala and
have been in the business for more than 60 years. In Kochi,
Rahmaniya (kethelschicken.com) is situated on Banerjee
Road, Kaloor.

JOIN OUR TASTE TEAM
Our Taste Team comprises readers and home
cooks who try our recipes and give us feedback
on what they liked and what they would do
differently. Read p 99 to see Pinky Gaikwad’s twist

on the Kaikiri stew. On this page, Ruchi Mathur
shares how she adapted the Chicken narangi do
pyaaza featured on p 94. Go to p 76 to see what
Chandrama Mohanty thought of our Litti chokha
with tamataar-khajur chutney. Write to us at
to join us.

WorldMags.net

AUGUST 2012

Photograph JUDY REDDER

T BREAKFAST A typical Kerala


over to you
readers write

INSIDERS’
POLL

4.5%
Korma

9%
Vindaloo

What is your
favourite

Indian curry?

59.5%

Chettinad-style curry

27%
Rogan josh

LETTER
READER RECIPE OF THE MONTH
Dear editor,
OF THE
I eagerly await your magazine MONTH
Ira Gulati gives us
THE SNACKS
every month. The recipes are
the recipe for her
n Peel and cut each cucumber into 2
signature
spread
of
parts vertically. Scoop out the centre of
unique, yet easy to prepare and
cucumber starters
each piece using a knife. Keep aside.
most importantly, healthy and nutritious.
served with a
n Heat the oil in a pan. After 5 minutes,
This month, I tried out the different types

cucumber mocktail.
add the green chilli paste, peas, paneer
and curd and mix well. Cook until the
of khichdis given in your July 2012 issue
Go green cucumber
paneer becomes light golden.
and everyone at home enjoyed it. Since I
surprise
n Add the pepper powder, chaat
have started subscribing to Good Food, I have
Serves 2 n 20 minutes n EASY
masala, mint leaves and salt. Mix
well and divide into equal
stopped buying recipe books! You and your
THE SNACKS
portions.
team have been doing a commendable job in
cucumbers 4
n Stuff each cucumber
making Good Food a success. Thank you for
oil 2 tsp
slice with a portion of the
green chilli paste 1 tsp
prepared mixture. Then
helping me better my cooking skills.
peas 1/2 cup, boiled
cut each slice into 3 equal
Debasmita Pani, paneer 3/4 cup
portions and garnish with a
Mumbai fresh low-fat curd 4 tsp

sprig of mint leaves.
The winner of the letter of the month for this
issue wins a special festive hamper worth
` 5,000 from Foodhall. The hamper is filled
with tempting goodies like Kalamata olives,
extra virgin olive oil, penne rigate, basil
crackers , chocolate fondue, Lemnos jalapeno
cream cheese  and Jamie Oliver’s chilli
salt . To write in to the magazine, e-mail
us at bbcgoodfood@wwm.
co.in and include
your address
and telephone
number. 

Interact with other Good Food
readers on Facebook at facebook.
com/GoodFoodMagazineIndia
or follow us on Twitter at twitter.

com/goodfoodmagin.

AUGUST 2012

black pepper powder 1 tsp
chaat masala 1 tsp
mint leaves 1 tsp, chopped
THE MOCKTAIL
cucumbers 2, finely chopped
mango pulp 1/2 cup

sugar syrup 2 tsp or to taste
lemon juice 2 tbsp
jal jeera powder 1 tsp
salt to taste
ice cubes 2-3
cucumber and mango diced, to garnish

THE MOCKTAIL
n Place the cucumber and
mango pulp into a blender.
Cover and blend until
smooth. Add the sugar
syrup, lemon juice, jal jeera
powder and salt. Pour into
glasses over ice cubes
and serve chilled. Garnish
with diced cucumber and
mango pieces.

The winner of the Reader Recipe of the Month wins a special gift hamper worth ` 5,500
from Debenhams. The hamper contains a set of storage jars and a stainless steel pan set.
To win the hamper, write in with your favourite recipe, attach a photograph of the dish that
is at least 1 MB in size, along with a photograph of yourself that is at least 500 KB in size
and e-mail it to us at bbcgoodfood@wwm.
co.in with the subject line ‘Reader
Recipe’. Don’t forget your
address and telephone number!

WorldMags.net

BBC GoodFood 11


In this issue
MANISH MEHROTRA




VICKY RATNANI

Manish Mehrotra is the award-winning executive chef of Old
World Hospitality Pvt Ltd, the company that owns Indian
Accent restaurant in Delhi, among others. He graduated from
the Institute of Hotel Management in Mumbai, and started
his career at Thai Pavilion restaurant at the Taj President
in Mumbai. He then set up Oriental Octopus, a pan Asian
restaurant in Delhi, and Tamarai, an award-winning pan Asian
restaurant in London. In recent years, he has won accolades
for his experimental, contemporary take on Indian food at
Indian Accent. He also won the televised cooking competition
Foodistan in 2012. Mehrotra created a classic Bihari menu of
vegetarian delights for Good Food, featured in our Weekend
Menu section, p 72.



Vicky Ratnani is a chef, television
anchor and culinary consultant based
in Mumbai. He graduated from the

Institute of Hospitality Management
in Mumbai and is currently Corporate
Chef, Fine Dining at Dish Hospitality,
the company that owns and manages
Aurus restaurant in Mumbai. Ratnani
came up with his own version of
modern salads with a desi twist
featured in Weekend on p 82.


NAREN THIMMAIAH

Naren Thimmaiah is the Executive
Chef of Karavalli restaurant at
The Gateway Hotel in Bangalore.
Thimmaiah began his career with the
Taj group of hotels, and over the years,
has been instrumental in cementing
Karavalli’s reputation as a restaurant
that serves authentic regional coastal
cuisine. In this issue, Thimmaiah
shares his take on the fiery South
Indian staple, rasam. Find his flavoured
rasams in Modern Veggie on p 64.

SHIRISH SEN

CHRISTINE MANFIELD



Shirish Sen is a Delhi-based freelance photographer who
specialises in food, people and product photography. His
portfolio includes advertising campaigns, editorial features
and packaging for clients such as Pizza Hut, KFC, Ruby
Tuesday, Minute Maid and Pepsi, among others. His work
has appeared in publications such as Cosmopolitan, Elle and
Marie Claire. In this issue, Sen shot the Bihari menu featured
in the Weekend Menu section of Eat In, p 72.

Christine Manfield is an Australian chef, author, restaurateur
and gastronomic traveller. She set up several restaurants in
Sydney, such as Paragon and Paramount, before relocating
to London in 2003. In London, she set up the critically
acclaimed restaurant East @ West. Currently based in
Sydney, Manfield is the author of seven award-winning
books based on her recipes and travels. Read Manfield’s
account of Kolkata’s culinary legacy, drawn from her sixth
book Tasting India, in Eat Like a Local in Eat Away, p 126.
12 BBC GoodFood

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AUGUST 2012


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Our five easy-to-navigate sections enable you to find exactly what you are looking for.
Here’s what you can expect to see in every issue of Good Food India:
first bite
news, trends, shopping

first bite
news, trends, shopping

T First Bite

Attack these attas!

first bite

go with the grain

Jowar (Sorghum)

The sturdiest and most drought resistant of
all grains, jowar has long been a staple source
of nutrition for the poor. Jowar absorbs
flavours easily, which is why it is used by
Gujaratis to make bhakris and a porridge-like
dish called khichu. As the grain is gluten-free,
the flour isn’t as malleable as wheat, which
requires one to hand-press the dough into
shape as opposed to using a rolling pin.

Discover real flour power with Indian grains and attas

Words KAINAZ CONTRACTOR

RAJGIRA

RAGI

Photograph DINODIA PHOTOOTO

The flour extracted from the pearl millet
grain has a slightly nutty flavour and appears
greyish in colour. Mostly consumed during
the winter months, bajra is widely eaten in
the northern states and Gujarat. Its culinary
uses are commonly restricted to chapatis,
bhakris, theplas and khichdis. Apart from
finding favour with the gluten intolerant,
bajra is also beneficial to those with acidityrelated problems. Nutritionally, this grain is
rich in Omega 3, 6 and 9 fatty acids, iron,
calcium and protein.

Ragi (Red millet)
Popularly known as nachni, this grain is
primarily used in the kitchens of southern
India. In its raw form, it can easily be mistaken
for a variety of red mustard seeds. Apart
from diet snack counters being flooded with
nachni chips, crackers and papads, it is also
traditionally consumed in idli, dosa, upma,
adai (thick uttapam), laddoo, chapati and
halwa. It is also recommended for patients

with calcium deficiencies, high cholesterol
and diabetes.

Photograph SUDEEP GURTU

Grain course

Indigenous grains such as jowar,
bajra, ragi and rajgira have long
been a part of our heritage.
Cheap and wholesome, they
are gluten-free and rich in
fibre and several communities
still continue to cook with
them. Take for instance, the
Maharashtrian thalipeeth (recipe
overleaf), which is is a pancake
made of a blend of most of
these flours. Another example
is the jowari/bajri ki roti that’s
best paired with zunka (a mix of
besan, onion, garlic and spices).
While the Gujaratis make theplas
with rajgira flour, in Karnataka,
boiled ragi flour is made into
dumplings and eaten with
sambhar (called ragi mudde).

Our opening section is the perfect appetiser for the pages that follow.
First Bite brings you the month’s freshest food buzz — new launches,

events, great bargains, supermarket sweeps, health tips on food and
more. In every issue we spotlight local produce in season in Need To
Know. And our Good Food Investigates pieces delve deep into important
food issues to bring you insights that really matter to you. P 21

Bajra (Pearl millet)

Rajgira (Amaranth)
The flavour du jour of the grain world,
amaranth or rajgira is seeing a powerful
resurgence. The West has only recently
started promoting amaranth as the new
power grain, but we in India have long been
aware of its benefits — it’s packed with
calcium, protein and antioxidants. Western
imports incorporate the grain in breakfast
cereals and energy bars, but we prefer our
good old rajgira laddoos (see recipe on p 80)
that are as good for dunking in milk as they
are for midday snacking.

JOWAR

Thalipeeth

n Sift all the flours together. Heat
2 tbsp of oil and add to the flours.
Mix well.
n Add the other ingredients except
the remaining oil to prepare a soft,

yet firm dough.
n Rest the dough for 10 minutes.
n Make small roundels of the dough
and roll each into balls, 3 inches in
diameter, by pressing lightly with
your palm. Use a little extra flour if
required.
n Place one thalipeeth on a heated
griddle. Apply a little oil on the
surface, cover the pan and let it cook
on a slow flame.
n Gently turn it over when it turns
light brown and similarly, cook the
other side too.
n Serve it with garlic chutney.

Makes 8 n 30 minutes n EASY
Recipe MEHER DASONDI
rice flour 150g
wheat flour 30g
pearl millet flour (bajra) 30g
sorghum flour (jowar) 30g
Bengal gram flour 30g
coriander and cumin powder 10g
pepper 5g, ground
fenugreek seeds 5g
clove powder 3g
cardamom powder 5g
ginger and green chilli paste 20g
onions 100g, finely chopped

tomatoes 120g, finely chopped
fresh yoghurt 120ml
chilli powder 10g
salt as required
oil 120ml

BAJRA

039-040-L4 First Bite-STAN R1.indd 21

13/07/12 10:37 PM

039-040-L4 First Bite-STAN R1.indd 22

13/07/12 10:37 PM

eat in
entertaining

eat in
entertaining

curry

The culinary
legacy of
Indian curry
dates back
to medieval
times when

the Mughal
aristocracy
patronised the
khansamas
(royal cooks) and bawarchis. From
the basic salan to the aromatic
kalia, or the rich korma, the cooks
strove to innovate and build the
gastronomic heritage of curries
ranging in textures and flavours.
Indian curries vary from region to
region in their taste, colour, texture
and aroma.
Cooking Indian curries often
involves a combination of
several methods. These include
baghar or tempering, bhunao – a
combination of stewing and stirfrying, which is starkly different
from dum (which involves ‘cooking
in its own steam’). Frying to dhuan
involves smoking to enhance
the flavour whereas bhunana
comprises roasting on a tawa,
kadai or even in a tandoor.
I have categorised the curries
according to five basic colours.
These include red, where tomatoes

It’s got the planet in a spice-crazed swoon. Cook — and
drool — along with us as we celebrate the sensational

Indian curry in all its punchy hues

Props courtesy GOOD EARTH, FAB INDIA, THE SHOP

Recipes MEHER DASONDI Photographs PRATEEKSH MEHRA

L2 entertaining.indd 92

form the base; brown, derived
from browned onions and masala
and white, wherein the colour
is obtained from badam or kaju
paste or a combination of char
magaz or pumpkin seeds, or
from the freshness of ground
coconut and coconut milk. Yellow
curries get their colour from the
addition of saffron while green
ones are replete with the freshness
of vegetables like palak, methi,
coriander or mint, either on their
own or in combination.

eat out
restaurant spy

The largest section of the magazine, Eat In is packed with fabulous recipes
with little tips and tricks that are perfect for the home cook. Each recipe is
triple-tested by us so you get it right the very first time you make it. We’ve
got everything covered — from easy everyday dinners and show-off menus

for the weekend to modern veggie dishes and seasonal recipes bursting
with the month’s flavours. P 43

- Meher Dasondi,
ex-chef and former professor at Sophia
Polytechnic’s culinary department in Mumbai

MUST-TRY CURRIES
✴ Chicken narangi do pyaaza
✴ Dhabe ka gosht
✴ Prawn caldeen
✴ Shahi mirch bhara paneer
✴ Safed maas
✴ Kaikiri stew
✴ Aloo paneer nazakat korma
✴ Watermelon curry

14/07/12 11:05 AML2 entertaining.indd 93

14/07/12 11:05 AM

eat out
restaurant spy

on trial

biryanis

We put seven
restaurants famed for

their biryanis to the test

HOW WE DID IT Hearty, fragrant and usually meaty, biryani is a rich, gourmet dish, redolent of exotic spices and boasting a

great depth of flavour. The restaurants featured in this selection aren’t the epitome of fine dining, but are local favourites that are best known
for their biryanis, whether they are of the mild, Awadhi style, the fiery Dindigul style or the aromatic Hyderabadi kacchi-style (where, the
meat and rice are cooked together in their raw state as opposed to the pukki style where the meat and rice are cooked separately and then
layered). Although the menus of these restaurants also include other dishes, they are most famously associated with their biryanis.

Haji Noor
TMohammed

with garlic, chillies, pepper and
achaari masala. It makes my tongue
tingle without numbing it to the other
flavours. The greasy dish is served
with Dahi Ki Chutney, made with
onions, tomatoes and green chillies.

Biryaniwale,

New Delhi

Travelling the distance for a great
meal always made a certain
‘gastronomadic’ sense to me. It’s
about going where the action is. In the
case of Delhi, you go to the Walled
City via Turkman Gate, standing
here circa 1645. Walking through

the gate is like entering another era.
The fading glory of carved wooden
façades outshines the gaudy bangles
on sale in newer shops. Heady floral
scents waft out of ittar shops but I’m
sniffing out Elaichiwali Gali, home to
Haji Noor’s famed biryani eatery.
It’s a largish hole in the wall, with no
frills at all. The grimy benches can
seat 15 at most, and pride of place
is reserved for a massive copperbottomed degh from which Haji sahib
or his grandson Sikandar ladle out
biryani by the plate (eat in) or by the
kilo (takeaway).

n ORIGINS

Haji Noor’s style is a variation of
the Awadhi tradition. The rice and
meat are cooked separately. Then, the
meat goes into the degh first while the
rice is laden on top. All of it is then
cooked again, on dum. The rice and
meat are mixed at the time of serving.

n WHAT TO DRINK

Nothing. Unless you carry in some
of the delicious sherbet or sattu (a

refreshing drink made with roasted
gram and barley) that is sold in the
alley outside.

n INSIDER TIP

Haji sahib prepares three deghs of
dum biryani each morning. All 210
kilos of it is sold out by 2 pm. They
plan to reintroduce the beef korma
soon, which was their other speciality
until a decade ago. Given the quality
of their meat, it should be another
crowd puller.

Quality: 8/10
Choice: 5/10
Provenance:
9/10
Atmosphere:
5/10
Value: 9/10
Total: 36/50

— Mudita
Chauhan-Mubayi

n DETAILS

Haji Noor Mohammed Biryaniwale,

Elaichiwali Gali, Turkman Gate, Asaf
Ali Road, Delhi. Timings: 9 am–2 pm.
Biryanis ` 30 onwards.

Below:
Haji Noor’s
succulent
mutton biryani

Photographs SAURABH SISODIA

n THE BIRYANI
The owner
of Haji Noor
Mohammed
Biryaniwale,
Haji sahib with
his degh

058-062-L1 res spy-STAN R1.indd 108

T Eat In

Rice and meat glisten on my plate,
robustly red with a hint of rose
essence (kewra). The meat slides off
the bone, melting on my tongue. The
rice—slightly overdone that day—is
redolent with spices like cardamom,
clove and nutmeg and pepped up

13/07/12 9:48 PM 058-062-L1 res spy-STAN R1.indd 109

T Eat Out
This section stands out for its uniquely-positioned restaurant reviews
and features that are authoritative, objective and reliable. A novel approach
to restaurant reviews, our Pro vs Punter section enables a Good Food India
reader to go undercover and rate a restaurant together with an expert. Plus,
we get leading chefs from around the country to simplify their signature
recipes to make at home. P 107

13/07/12 9:48 PM

eat away
west bengal

EAT LIKE A LOCAL

T Eat Away

Kolkata and
Darjeeling
Writer Christine Manfield dishes about the city of joy and
its stunning culinary legacy

B

engali food is elegant, richly
flavoured and textured.
Lightness of touch is the

key, and great stress is
placed on how spices are ground and
how much water is used to make
them into a paste, with the finesse
of the paste being paramount. Panch
phoran is Bengali five-spice mix, and
its flavours define the Bengali kitchen.
Many dishes are characterised by the
astute use of mustard seeds (brown
and yellow) tempered in mustard
oil with dried chilli and curry leaves;
white poppy seeds (khus khus) are
used in equal measure.
Fish plays an integral role in
Bengali cooking, to the extent that fish
curry is considered inseparable from
the Bengali temperament. The city’s
coastal position and inland waterways
produce abundant supplies, with
freshwater fish being more highly
sought-after than seawater fish. We are
lucky enough to be in Kolkata for the
start of the hilsa season. Related to the
herring family, these small, silver bony
fish are known as ilish in local dialect,
and their arrival has everyone excited.
During their short season, they appear
at every meal: we have hilsa for lunch
the first day, check it out at the fish
market, have it for lunch again the

second day and then twice more
for dinner.

In the days of colonial rule, the
British initiated the tradition of tiffin
– little snacks to nibble on – and it has
become an essential component of
Indian culinary culture. At the same
time, the British memsahibs taught
and encouraged their house cooks to
make cakes and breads, setting the
precedent for sweets and desserts.
Kolkata is now synonymous with
sweets. Sandesh is perhaps the most
renowned local sweet. Its name is
the Bengali word for ‘message’ and
it is held in special regard. Originally
produced in the private kitchens
of the wealthy, it is now made by
professional confectioners. We also
taste mishti doi, the highly revered
sweet curd that every Bengali is
brought up on. Made from reduced
milk, combined with caramelised
jaggery (palm sugar) and curd, then
set in small earthenware cups or
vessels, it’s rich and luscious.

Our seasoned travel journalists and food experts (who are often residents of
the featured locations) arm you with insider information and recipes from

the world’s most exciting food destinations. Eat Like A Local brings easy,
authentic menus from fantastic food destinations while Budget and Blowout
shows you how to get your wallet’s worth when travelling. And City On the
Plate features the insider’s food guide to an Indian state. P 125

Kewpie’s tomato
chutney
Serves 8 n 20 minutes n EASY

Text, recipes and photographs adapted from TASTING INDIA by CHRISTINE MANFIELD,
Photographs by ANSON SMART. Published by LANTERN, PENGUIN BOOKS.

A delicious fresh relish from Kewpie’s
Kitchen, where it is served as an
accompaniment to almost everything.
Christine
Manfield is one
of Australia’s
most celebrated
chefs and
cookbook writers.
An inveterate
traveller, Manfield
regularly hosts
gastronomic
tours to
destinations like
India, Morocco,
Spain and Turkey.

EASY BENGALI MENU
TKewpie’s tomato chutney
TTatul Ilish Bhaja
TAlur dom
TBati chorchori
TRasagullas

mustard oil 1 tsp
panch phoran 2 pinches (recipe below)
tomatoes 250g, chopped
salt 2 tsp
ginger 1 tbsp, julienned
chilli powder 1/2 tsp
seedless raisins or sultanas 1 tbsp,
soaked in water and drained
sugar 3 tbsp

A bustling local market in Kolkata
Alur dom

Kewpie’s tomato chutney
Picking tea in Darjeeling

THE PANCH PHORAN
cumin seeds 2 tsp
brown mustard seeds 2 tsp
fennel seeds 2 tsp
fenugreek seeds 2 tsp
nigella seeds 2 tsp
n Heat the mustard oil in a kadhai or

wok. Add the panch phoran and fry over
medium heat until it stops spluttering.
n Add the tomato and stir to coat with
the spices. Mix in 2 tsp salt, then cover
the pan and simmer for 10 minutes.
n Add the ginger, chilli powder and
raisins and stir to combine.
n Stir in the sugar and 1 cup (250ml) water.
n Simmer for 10 minutes until the
tomato is cooked and the chutney has
thickened.
n Season with salt to taste and allow to
cool before using.

031-033-L4 Eat like a local Kolkata & Darjeeling-STAN R1.indd 126

13/07/12 10:42 PM 031-033-L4 Eat like a local Kolkata & Darjeeling-STAN R1.indd 127

13/07/12 10:42 PM

masterclass
chef skills

KARAM SETHI’S

Masterclass
Karam Sethi, head chef of London’s Trishna restaurant, shows how to
pick cooked crab, then creates a sumptuous dinner dish with it
Recipe KARAM SETHI Photographs DAVID MUNNS

IVE
EXCLUS
Y-STEP
STEP-BCIPE
RE
003-004-L1 Masterclass-STAN R1.indd 144

Garlic, black pepper
and butter crab with
paratha
Serves 4 as a starter or 2 as a
light lunch n 40 minutes
n A LITTLE EFFORT
The paratha recipe makes more
than you’ll need but you can freeze
the leftovers for another time.
butter 190g, melted
vegetable oil 1 tsp
garlic paste 2 tbsp (made by
crushing 4 fresh garlic cloves)
crab 1 x 750g-1kg, steamed
black pepper 1 tbsp
chives 3 tbsp, finely chopped
THE PARATHAS
plain flour 600g
egg 1, beaten
golden caster sugar 1 tbsp (try
Tate & Lyle available at gourmet
stores)
chives 4 tbsp, chopped

butter or ghee 3 tbsp, melted
condensed milk 1 tbsp (optional)
ghee or oil for frying, 125ml
salt to taste
n Pick the crab meat from the
crab and keep the white and
brown meat in separate bowls
(see our masterclass on the next
page).
n To make the paratha, sift the
flour in to a bowl, add the egg,
salt, sugar, chives and melted
butter. Combine 250ml water with
the condensed milk and add it in.

n Mix to make a soft dough. Roll
the dough into a ball and cover
with a damp cloth and leave to
rest for about 30 minutes to 1
hour.
n Divide the dough into 12 small
balls. Brush with ghee or oil,
cover and leave to rest for a
minimum of 30 minutes.
n Flatten the dough balls and
stretch each one out into a circle
as far as it will go.
n Fold the edges inward,
continuing until you have a round
shape of approximately 15 cm in

diameter. Press down lightly. Fry
the paratha in ghee until crisp
on the outside but still very soft
inside.
n To make the crab, heat the
butter and oil in a pan. Once hot,
add the garlic paste and cook
on a low heat without colouring
for 2 minutes. Add the brown
crab meat and cook for a further
minute, followed by the white
crab meat and black pepper.
Cook for a further 2 minutes
and then add the chives and
remove from the heat. Check the
seasoning and add salt if needed
as the brown crab meat acts as
seasoning. Serve sprinkled with
some more chives and the warm
paratha.
n PER SERVING (as a starter for
4) 700 kcals, protein 19.6g, carbs
63.4g, fat 42.6g, sat fat 22.8g,
fibre 2.8g, salt 1.8g

1

Find the joint where the shell is attached
to the body. Use your fingers or a knife to
push and crack the body away.

2

There is a natural joint that will give way
under pressure and allow you to remove
the body.

The feathery dead man’s fingers (gills)
are attached to each side of the body.
Remove and discard them and any that are
left in the shell.

4

5

6

7

8

Use a pick to pull all the meat from the claws.
Check through all the white meat for stray
shell pieces before you use it.

Twist and pull the claws and legs away from
the body.

Styling ARABELLA MCNIE Food styling SONJA EDRIDGE

Karam Sethi was born in London
and spent his childhood summers in
Delhi. His kitchen experience includes
stints at Bukhara in Delhi, Trishna
in Mumbai and Zuma in London. He
took over as head chef of Trishna in
London from early last year.

Tease the white meat from the cavities in
the body with a pick or skewer. Keep in a
separate bowl to the brown meat.

13/07/12 11:37 PM 003-004-L1 Masterclass-STAN R1.indd 145

Scoop the brown crab meat from the shell
and keep in a bowl.

Use a small mallet or back of a heavy knife
to crack the claws.

3

Next, cut the body of the crab in half using
a heavy knife.

T Masterclass
Learn to cook like a pro in our Masterclass section. Pick up cooking lessons
directly from culinary masters in India and abroad. Make restaurantperfect dishes and pick up fine dining finishing touches of chefs through
illustrated step-by-step recipes in Chef Skills. We also feature nifty kitchen

gadgets that sharpen your kitchen skills and our 10-minute wine guide is
perfect for wine lovers. P 143

9

13/07/12 11:37 PM

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How to get the best
from Good Food India

THE GOOD FOOD INDIA
PROMISE
We hope you enjoy our lively mix of recipes, restaurant
reviews and travel features. We attempt to make them

Why you can cook our
recipes with confidence

What our symbols
mean

fun to read, but we are also serious about eating well and

All the recipes in Good Food are tested

thoroughly, so they’ll work the first
time for you at home. Most of our
recipes are developed in the Good
Food test kitchen by our cookery
team or come from food writers and
chefs. We aim to make our recipes
as practical as possible, keeping
ingredient lists to a minimum and
avoiding lengthy preparations.

EASY Recipes everyone can make,
even beginners. These dishes are
usually quick, often on the table within
20 minutes.
MODERATELY EASY These require
a bit more skill – for example making
and rolling out pastry.
A LITTLE EFFORT
Recipes aimed at experienced cooks
who cook for pleasure and like a
challenge.
CAN BE FROZEN Unless otherwise
stated, freeze for up to three months.
Defrost thoroughly and heat until
piping hot.
VEGETARIAN Meat-free dishes.
JAIN Suitable for Jain cooking.

and every issue:

How we triple test
our recipes

1
2
3

The first time is by the recipe writer,
who tests the recipe in a domestic
kitchen.
Next, a member of the cookery
team makes the recipe in the
Good Food India kitchen.
The recipe is then tested at our
photo shoot. Some recipes are
tested a fourth time at home by
individual members of the Good Food
editorial team — we’re all keen cooks
and often can’t resist trying out a
recipe we particularly love, as soon as
we’ve discovered it.
Testing our recipes three times or
more may seem over-cautious, but
mistakes can be costly, so we think it
makes sense to ensure you get the
right result every time.

doing it sustainably. Here’s what you can expect from this

Over to you 

Have a family recipe to
share or think you could
add to our recipes? Email
us at bbcgoodfood@wwm.
co.in and let us know. We’re
always on the look out for
new places and food stories
and would love to hear about
great places to eat in your
hometown.

REALLY
REALLY
QUICK

FOR
SKILLED
COOKS

Show-off recipes when you
fancy a challenge. These
recipes require a little effort.

you use standard level measuring spoons, and don’t mix
imperial and metric measures.
EASY RECIPES Most of Good Food’s recipes are quick
and simple to follow and can be made using easily
available ingredients.
THE ODD CHALLENGE Weekends are perfect for
elaborate meals and entertaining. We’ve included a

smattering of show-off recipes for those who enjoy a
good challenge.
GOOD VALUE Look out for our recipes that aim to
make the most of your budget — 7 meals for ` 700. We
also use full packs, cans and jars where we can, to avoid
waste, but if that’s not possible we aim to suggest ways
SEASONAL EATING We love using seasonal ingredients
in our recipes because they give the food a distinct
flavour and add seasonal freshness.
HEALTHY EATING We reckon the 80% sensible, 20%
indulgent way of eating is best which is why we support
our recipes with nutritional info. We’ll also tell you how to
give popular recipes a healthy makeover.
PROVENANCE MATTERS Where possible, we use
humanely reared meats, free-range chickens and eggs,
sustainably sourced fish and unrefined sugar.
INTERNATIONAL SAVVY Sometimes, recipes call
for ingredients that aren’t available locally and can’t be
brought to India without notching up air / sea miles. It’s
your choice whether or not you use them.
CHEAP EATS AND SMART TREATS Hole-in-the-wall
eateries and fine dining restaurants — there’s room for

Those recipes marked with
this stamp are the simplest
and require very little effort.
Recipes that can be made
under 20 minutes. Perfect
for hectic weekdays.

at least three times. For great results, we recommend

of using up leftovers.

LOOK OUT FOR
THESE HIGHLIGHTS
REALLY
REALLY
EASY

TRIPLE-TESTED RECIPES All our recipes are tested

Milagu (pepper)

Serves 8 n 30 minutes

rasam

n EASY

This masala-filled,
fiery rasam is certain
to rid you of those
bad colds. Drinking
it
plain is a heady experienc
e, though not
for the faint of heart.
tamarind balls 2,
lemon-sized

oil 2 tsp
mustard seeds 1
tsp
cumin powder 1 tsp
curry leaves 12
salt to taste
turmeric 1 tsp
asafoetida (hing)
1 tsp

Thengai paal
milk) rasam (coconut

Serves 8 n 15 minutes

n EASY

How can any South
Indian dish be
complete without
coconut? The simple
addition of coconut
milk to this rasam
brings out a plethora
of flavours.
ghee 4 tbsp
mustard seeds 2
tsp
curry leaves 2 sprigs

rasam powder 8
tsp (see recipe on
p 68)
red chilli powder
4 tsp
tomatoes 5, chopped
REALLY
REALLY
coconut milk 8 cups
EASY
salt to taste
coriander leaves
1 cup

044-047-L3 Rasam-STAN

n Heat some ghee
in a pan or kadai.
Throw in the mustard
seeds, wait
till they pop and
then add the curry
leaves. Now mix in
the rasam powder
and chilli powder.
n Stir well and tip
in the chopped
tomatoes. Sauté
for some time until
the tomatoes are

soft and mushy.
n Now add diluted
coconut milk and
heat it, stirring occasiona
lly and making
sure it doesn’t split.
Add salt to taste.
n Add the coriander
leaves and let the
mixture continue
boiling. Remove from
fire. Serve the coconut
milk rasam with
white rice.
n PER SERVING
594.63 kcals, protein
5.58g, carbs 16.08g,
fat 59.16g, sat fat
51.68g, fibre 5.63g,
salt 0.1g

THE RASAM POWDER
black pepper 2 tsp

coriander seeds
2 tsp
cumin powder 2
tsp
red chillies 6
split pigeon peas

(toor dal) 2 tsp
n Soak the tamarind
in warm water for
15 minutes. Then
squeeze the tamarind
to extract the juice.
n Fry the mustard
seeds, cumin
powder and curry
leaves in oil.
n Add the tamarind
water, salt,
turmeric and asafoetid
a and allow to
boil.
n Grind the rasam
ingredients together
to make a coarse
powder. Add this
to
the boiling mixture.
Serve the rasam
hot with steamed
rice.
n PER SERVING
25.50 kcals, protein
0.65g, carbs 2.73g,
fat 1.50g, sat fat
0.07g, fibre 0.81g,
salt none

R1.indd 68

13/07/12 9:58
PM

For a list of stores that stock gourmet ingredients, turn to p 153

both in Good Food’s Eat Out pages.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE The Eat Away section arms
you with insider info and recipes from the world’s most
exciting food destinations written by on-the-ground food
journalists.
BIG ISSUES Preaching doesn’t come naturally, so we
won’t tell you what, or what not to eat. Instead, we keep
you up-to-date with issues and debates in the food world
in our Good Food Investigates feature. Read about the
disappearance of Indian fruit from markets on p 34.

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GASTRONOMIC ADVENTURES

NEW FLAVOURS AT SHIRO

Shiro, the fine-dining, pan-Asian restaurant with outlets in Mumbai,
Bangalore and New Delhi, is all set to woo gourmets with its brand
new menu. The menu will bring together sushi, sashimi, Cantonese
dim sum and teppanyaki along with a plethora of Korean,
Vietnamese and Thai dishes. This sumptuous spread will be
available at all Shiro outlets by mid November.
From Spinach Gomae served with a sesame and misoflavoured dip to chunky cubes of fish, stir-fried in hoisin
and from Thai chilli sauce to succulent lamb dumplings in
a smoky barbeque sauce, you are sure to find something
to suit your palate. What’s on our wish list? The delicious
Tofu with Spicy Korean Bean Paste, Tenderloin Asparagus
with Ginger Lemon Sauce, Tofu Kimchi Chigae (a classic
Korean kimchi stew), Spicy Galbi (tenderloin marinated in
traditional sweet Korean sauce and barbequed to perfection)
and Chicken and Kimchi Casserole with Tofu. The chef though,
insists patrons must try the Fish with Chilli Mustard Sauce, Kai
Kaprow with Garlic Rice and Hung Shao Green Beans. We say,
why choose at all? Bon appetit!

All about BBC Good Food India’s Privilege Programme

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subscribe to our magazine, you receive an exclusive Privilege Card that allows you to live out all your food fantasies through a host of special offers.
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fabulous culinary tours and gastronomic adventures around the globe. You can also stock your larder with exotic ingredients and fine wines or pick up
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To subscribe, SMS GFPC to 58888 or log on to mags.timesgroup.com/good-food.html
18 BBC GoodFood

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AUGUST 2012


need to know
live masterclass

Habanero Tequila Fired Cottage Cheese

Maximum

Mexican

BBC Good Food India together with Chef Vikas Seth
of Sancho’s, added a touch of Mexico to Mumbai with
Seth's live masterclass at Foodhall
Photographs FAROKH JASSAWALA

O

n an overcast weekday
afternoon, a bunch of
enthusiastic ladies gathered
in Mumbai’s Foodhall for a Mexicanthemed masterclass hosted by the
genial chef Vikas Seth of Sancho’s.
Chef Seth whipped up a delicious
Mexican spread, starting with the
basics — creamy guacamole (made with
avocado and lime) with roasted tomato
salsa accompanied by crisp tortilla
chips. There were smiles all around
as pretty little bowls of guacamole
and salsa were handed round to the
participants.
Seth then went on to create
the Corn, Zucchini and Jalapeno
Chimichanga, a popular Tex-Mex dish,
heaped with sour cream. But all eyes
were on his masterpiece, the Habanero
Tequila Fired Cottage Cheese, Mexican
Rice and Fresh Lettuce Salad. Camera
flashes went off as the chef dribbled
tequila all over the cottage cheese and
dramatically flambéed the dish.
Throughout the class, chef Seth
regaled the audience with anecdotes
about his life on board a cruise ship. He
interspersed the cooking with lots of

culinary tips on several kinds of Mexican

ingredients, talking about, among
other things, the various types of
Mexican chillies available that are used
differently in different preparations
such as tortas (a sort of sandwich) and
molé (the famous traditional Mexican
sauce made with cocoa).
Plenty of audience participation led
to the class going on for well over the
allotted two hours. The event finally
came to an end with participants
enjoying plates of the
delicious food that
the chef conjured
up. The denouement
saw all participants
taking home little boxes
from Sancho’s
restaurant,
filled with
crunchy
black and
regular
tortilla
chips.

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first bite
news, trends, shopping

first bite

go with the grain
Discover real flour power with Indian grains and attas
Words KAINAZ CONTRACTOR

RAJGIRA

RAGI

Photograph SUDEEP GURTU

Grain course

Indigenous grains such as jowar,
bajra, ragi and rajgira have long
been a part of our heritage.
Cheap and wholesome, they
are gluten-free and rich in
fibre and several communities
still continue to cook with
them. Take for instance, the
Maharashtrian thalipeeth (recipe
overleaf), which is is a pancake
made of a blend of most of

these flours. Another example
is the jowari/bajri ki roti that’s
best paired with zunka (a mix of
besan, onion, garlic and spices).
While the Gujaratis make theplas
with rajgira flour, in Karnataka,
boiled ragi flour is made into
dumplings and eaten with
sambhar (called ragi mudde).

JOWAR

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BAJRA


first bite
news, trends, shopping

Attack these attas!
Jowar (Sorghum)

The sturdiest and most drought resistant of
all grains, jowar has long been a staple source
of nutrition for the poor. Jowar absorbs
flavours easily, which is why it is used by
Gujaratis to make bhakris and a porridge-like
dish called khichu. As the grain is gluten-free,
the flour isn’t as malleable as wheat, which

requires one to hand-press the dough into
shape as opposed to using a rolling pin.

Bajra (Pearl millet)

Photograph DINODIA PHOTO

The flour extracted from the pearl millet
grain has a slightly nutty flavour and appears
greyish in colour. Mostly consumed during
the winter months, bajra is widely eaten in
the northern states and Gujarat. Its culinary
uses are commonly restricted to chapatis,
bhakris, theplas and khichdis. Apart from
finding favour with the gluten intolerant,
bajra is also beneficial to those with acidityrelated problems. Nutritionally, this grain is
rich in Omega 3, 6 and 9 fatty acids, iron,
calcium and protein.

Ragi (Red millet)
Popularly known as nachni, this grain is
primarily used in the kitchens of southern
India. In its raw form, it can easily be mistaken
for a variety of red mustard seeds. Apart
from diet snack counters being flooded with
nachni chips, crackers and papads, it is also
traditionally consumed in idli, dosa, upma,
adai (thick uttapam), laddoo, chapati and
halwa. It is also recommended for patients
with calcium deficiencies, high cholesterol

and diabetes.

Rajgira (Amaranth)
The flavour du jour of the grain world,
amaranth or rajgira is seeing a powerful
resurgence. The West has only recently
started promoting amaranth as the new
power grain, but we in India have long been
aware of its benefits — it’s packed with
calcium, protein and antioxidants. Western
imports incorporate the grain in breakfast
cereals and energy bars, but we prefer our
good old rajgira laddoos (see recipe on p 80)
that are as good for dunking in milk as they
are for midday snacking.

Thalipeeth
Makes 8 n 30 minutes n EASY
Recipe MEHER DASONDI
rice flour 150g
wheat flour 30g
pearl millet flour (bajra) 30g
sorghum flour (jowar) 30g
Bengal gram flour 30g
coriander and cumin powder 10g
pepper 5g, ground
fenugreek seeds 5g
clove powder 3g
cardamom powder 5g
ginger and green chilli paste 20g

onions 100g, finely chopped
tomatoes 120g, finely chopped
fresh yoghurt 120ml
chilli powder 10g
salt as required
oil 120ml

n Sift all the flours together. Heat
2 tbsp of oil and add to the flours.
Mix well.
n Add the other ingredients except
the remaining oil to prepare a soft,
yet firm dough.
n Rest the dough for 10 minutes.
n Make small roundels of the dough
and roll each into balls, 3 inches in
diameter, by pressing lightly with
your palm. Use a little extra flour if
required.
n Place one thalipeeth on a heated
griddle. Apply a little oil on the
surface, cover the pan and let it cook
on a slow flame.
n Gently turn it over when it turns
light brown and similarly, cook the
other side too.
n Serve it with garlic chutney.

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need to know

news, trends, shopping

THE JURY’S OUT

CUPBOARD LOVE HONEY

THE CASE FOR
That’s right! I don’t care if I stink up
the entire restaurant by ordering
the smelliest cheese platter or
a steaming plate of blue cheese
risotto. I love stinky cheeses.
Look beyond the initial waft of
body odour and old socks and
you’ll find that some of the best
cheeses are to be found amidst the
stench — Gorgonzola, Roquefort,
Stilton and Camembert. I don’t
always subscribe to ‘the smellier
the better’ school of
thought but cheese
pheromones have
nearly always found
favour with me
for their pungent,
complex flavours.
Plus, with everyone
turning up their
noses (or in this
case, away) there’s more for me!

- KAINAZ CONTRACTOR

Recipes compiled by CHARLOTTE MORGAN
T Honey friands Whisk 6 egg whites to stiff peaks and sift over 75g
plain flour, 200g icing sugar and 140g ground almonds. Add 200g
melted butter and 2 tbsp runny honey. Fold together. Spoon into 12
buttered cupcake tins. Bake at 200°C for 18-20 minutes, or until they
are risen and springy. Warm 4 tbsp runny honey and spoon a little
over each friand.
T Homemade granola Melt 60g butter with 70ml honey and 1/2
tsp vanilla extract. Mix in 200g nuts or seeds and 250g oats.
Spread in a roasting tray and bake for 20 minutes at 160°C until
golden. When cool, add 150g dried fruit and serve.
T Honeyed carrots Peel some carrots and cut in half lengthways.
Boil for 3-4 minutes and drain. Put 3 tbsp
honey and a knob of butter in a roasting
tin and heat in a 190°C oven for 3 minutes.
Tip in the carrots, coating completely, and
roast for 30 minutes until golden.
T Honey and mustard marinade Mix 3 tbsp
clear runny honey, 4 tbsp soy sauce,
2 tbsp wholegrain mustard and
1/2 tbsp toasted sesame seeds.
Use to coat chicken or ribs before
cooking.
Try Under the Mango Tree’s wild
forest honey available for ` 190 in
supermarkets.

SUPERMARKET SWEEP

Opt for an Asian flavour with this super quick supper.

+

+
+

+
+

=

Chicken and veggie noodle stir fry Serves 4 n 20 minutes n EASY
Start by boiling 1 packet of Ching’s noodles (` 25/200g), following pack instructions. In a wok,
heat 1 tbsp sesame oil, 1 tbsp butter and fry a pack of Godrej Real Good chicken, sliced (`
90/300g), for 5 minutes. Add the entire contents of the Blue Dragon Oyster and Spring
Onion Stir Fry sauce (` 65/120g) and sauté the chicken cubes until cooked, 10 more minutes.
Once the chicken is cooked through, remove from the pan and keep aside. Flash-fry a bowl of
sliced spinach, pok choy, bell pepper and carrots (` 25/200g). Next, add the noodles and
chicken and toss together. Divide between two bowls and serve immediately.
24 BBC GoodFood

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Photograph GARETH MORGANS

Photograph JEAN CAZALS

THE CASE AGAINST
On a recent trip to Paris, I visited

Pascal Beillevaire, a fromagerie
with a dizzying range of French
cheeses. Even for a cheese junkie
like me, entering the store was
overwhelming — it smelled funky,
mouldy and vaguely foreboding.
That is the problem I have with
stinky cheese. If you believe food
must smell delicious, you are likely
to be put off by the pungent smell
of strongly flavoured cheeses such
as Roquefort, Stilton or
Camembert. Once you
have a bite, you are
unlikely to forget the
taste in a hurry. The
smell lingers on and
on. If you’re going on
a date, give the big,
bold, stinky cheeses
a wide berth and try the
meek and elegant ones instead.
- VIDYA BALACHANDER

Photograph PHILIP WEBB, MAJA SMEND

How to use up…

Stinky cheese

TOTAL CO
ST

` 205

AUGUST 2012


need to know
news, trends, shopping

Presto pastes!
Take the tedium out of cooking with these exotic
ready pastes
Words VIDYA BALACHANDER

AL FEZ SPICY LEMON
TAGINE PASTE
A slow-cooked stew with tender lamb or chicken
and plenty of aromatic herbs and spices, a tagine is
a Moroccan classic. Recreate the warm flavours of
this hearty dish at home with Al Fez’s Spicy Lemon
Tagine Paste. The paste is extremely simple to use: we
stir-fried chicken pieces in a little oil and added two
medium teaspoons of the paste to it. The paste has a
wonderful lemony tang, which is an important part of a
traditional tagine. It is not too sour and has the perfect
blend of spices, which gives the tagine – or curry – a rich complexity. We tried our
tagine with flavoured couscous, but we recommend spooning it over plain, cooked
couscous to fully appreciate its flavour.

` 185 for 100g. Available at Godrej Nature’s Basket and Foodhall stores.

BLUE DRAGON SZECHUAN
PEPPER SHOT
A stir-fry is the perfect after-work dinner. It is fuss-free
yet satisfying and easy to rustle up when the chips are
down. Blue Dragon’s new range of Stir Fry Shots make
the task even easier. Simply sauté any combination of
meat and vegetables you like in a little oil, and add a
few teaspoons of the paste for flavour. Thanks to the
tomatoes present in the paste, it is the sweetness that
is more pronounced than the heat from the peppers. If
you like your stir-fry to be spicy, we recommend adding
a pinch of dried chilli flakes for extra heat. This is also a
good paste to use, with an extra dash of soy and chilli
sauce, to make restaurant-style chicken chilli.
` 115 for 140g. Available at major grocery stores.

BLUE ELEPHANT MASSAMAN CURRY PASTE
If red and green curries are the crowd-pleasing
favourites of Thai cuisine, Massaman curry is the
grown-up flavour. Traditionally made with meat
(usually beef or lamb) and potatoes, Massaman
curry gets its rich, deep flavour from the use of
spices such as cardamom, cinnamon and star
anise. Blue Elephant’s Massaman Curry Paste
provides the all-important spice mix, but in order
to complete the curry, you need to add a lot of
other seasoning, such as ginger-garlic paste, fish
sauce, sugar, salt and vinegar. The end result is a

deeply flavourful brown curry that is sure to be a
hit at dinner parties.
` 205 for a 70g packet. Available at major grocery stores.
AUGUST 2012

FRESH ON THE SHELF
JIVO CANOLA OIL
Now that heart-healthy, cholesterol busting,
Omega 3-rich oils are all the rage, canola
oil has made a rather timely entry into
the market. Canola is a member of
the Brassicaceae family that also
includes cabbage, cauliflower and
varieties of mustard. It is extracted
from its oil-rich seed, commonly
known as rapeseed.
Refined canola oil is said to have
among the highest content of
essential Omega 3-and-6 fatty acids in
cooking oils. It is also devoid of transfats and has the lowest amount of
saturated fats among cooking oils. But
how does it fare in the kitchen? Our
taste test revealed that when heated
to a high temperature, it has a strong,
mustardy odour that may or may not
appeal to you. However, the smell is
tamed by other fragrant pastes and
strong flavours, so you can easily use
it in curries or stir-fries. It’s less suited to
delicately flavoured dishes or tadkas, unless you don’t mind

its distinctive smell.
` 160 for 1l. Available at major grocery stores.

QUAKER OATS KESAR AND
KISHMISH FLAVOUR
When we first came across Quaker’s Indian-flavoured
oat porridge mix, we couldn’t help being sceptical about
how it would taste. Kesar and kishmish belong in mithai,
not oats, we thought. But the creamy and not-too-sweet
porridge allayed our fears. It is easy to prepare – you
just need to add the contents of the single serve sachet
into a cup of milk and let it cook briefly until it reaches
the desirable consistency. The mild flavours (there
are real raisins but only the barest hint of saffron) and
understated sweetness make this porridge a good
candidate for a nutritious, power-packed breakfast.
One pack for ` 10. Available at major grocery stores.
Also available in other savoury and sweet flavours

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BBC GoodFood 25