Hương vị ẩm thực của người bình dân qua ca dao, dân ca, tục ngữ và phương ngôn Hà Nam

K H O A H O C X A HOI VA NHAN VAN

HtfONG V! m w cdfi NGdoii BJNH m
m cfi Dfio, m ca TUC mdm PiiaoNG NGON H^ NHM

C

Lg HCfu Bach
Hoi Van hoc va Nqhe thuat tinh Ha Nam

ac dan tdc
Ddng Nam A.
f
ngudn gdc ndng
nghiep. trong dd ed
dan tdc Kinh, Viet
Nam, rat coi trpng vide
an va cd hdn mdt tridt ly
ve vail de nay "cd thue
mdi virc dupe dao"
Ndi dd'n van hoa dm
thue cua mdt cpng
ddng, dii theo nghia
hep nha't ciia tir nay.
ngudi ta ciing khdng <
thd bd qua ma khdng
Huong vi chudi ngu Dai Hodng mot trong nhiing net dm thuc dac trung ciia ngudi Hd Nam
ndi dd'n huang vj thiic
an, huang vj dd ud'ng
nhu la nhirng dac san ciia mdt viing ma tinh Ha Nam trudc day. Theo nhiing bac
nhirng vung khac it ed hoae khdng ed.

cao tudi eiia cac liing qud trdn, rupu Van
I. Huofng vi do udng
La va rupu lang Vpe la loai rupu ud'ng vao
La mdt tinh dat khdng rdng. ngu'di ed cam giac dm, hai ngpt nhung say lau,
khdng ddng. Ha Nam vdn cd nhiing viing khi tinh rupu khdng bi nhiic ddu. Dii vay,
qud ndi tid'ng ndu rupu ngon, du dd eac nd'u so sanh rupu cua ba lang vdi nhau thi
tac gia dan gian nd'i ddi truyen midng rupu lang Thach Td ngon han ca, vl mdi
nhu'ng eau tue ngir va ca dao, nhu "Rupu
chi nhdp thii' thdi, chir chua ud'ng that, ma
lang Vpe, ngpc sdng Chau"; "Thach To
da say dd'n miic "quay lo" rdi! Cd nhidn d
cd mdn rupu tam. Vira nhdp, vira ndm,
keo nga quay la" Lang Van La, xa Trae day, cac lac gia dan gian it nhieu da sii
But, huydn Duy Tidn; lang Vpe, xa Vu dung ldi ndi eudng didu, phdng dai dd de
Ban, huydn Blnh Luc; lang Thach To, xa cao dac san qud huong minh. Song ldi
Thanh Ha, huydn Thanh Lidm la nhu'ng eudng didu dd khdng lam mat di phdn ed't
lang que nau rupu ngon ndi tid'ng cua ldi sir that d mdt vimg qud chidm triing.
KHOA HOC VA CONG NGHE HA NAM.

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K H O A H O C X A HOI VA N H A N VAN
II. Huong vj thi'rc an
Ldn iheo ca cau bira an eiia ngudi Ha
Nam. chiing tdi nhan thdy cd kha nhieu
thiic an co huong vi dac biel, lidn (|uan
ddii thd ngcJi, ma cd thd lam gpi la dac
san. Dudi day chung toi xin ldn lupt neu
ten \a huong vj nhung dac san chii yd'u:

Trudc lien phdi kd den dac san ca. La
linh CO ciua nira dien tich tu nhidn thudc
vimg chiem trung, nhidu sdng ngdi nen
Ha Nam la noi cd nhieu ca nude ngpt va
mdt phdn dang ke trong dd la ca ngon,
tirng di vao iha ca dan gian. Chdng cd gi
dang ngac nhidn khi tim hidu kho tang
van hpe dan gian Ha Nam, ngudi ta bdt
gap nhieu cau tue ngfr. phuang ngdn va
ca dao ndi ve ca. Cu thd nhu cac eau
phuang ngdn "Lua Nha Xa, ca sdng
Lanh"; "Vai Luu Xa, ca ddm Rach";
'Nhupm Bdi Cdu, chp Bdu tdm ca" hoae
nhu eau ca dao: "Nhat ngon la ca ddm
Chieng. Mudn an ma chdng ed lien 66
mua"... Song Lanh la khiic sdng Hdng
chay qua lang Lanh Tri, thudc xa Mdc
Nam. hu\ en Duy Tidn. Dam Rang la dam
Dudng Hoa. ciing thuoc huydn Duy Tien.
Cdn chp Bdu nay thuoc thanh phd Phu Ly.
Ca ba dja danh tren deu ed nhien ca va ca
lai to. ngon. huang iham, \ j dam, heo ngay
rat hap ddn.
Ha Nam ddng thdi cung la nai cd nhieu
dac san \'e hoa. qua. Vimg dat chiem trung
na\' ngoai \eu id ban son dja. con cd tdi
mdt phdn tu dai tu nhidn thudc loai dat
pha Ceil d hai huydn Ly Nhan va Duy Tien,
chay dpc theo bd huu song Hdng, rat
thuan loi cho vice trdng cay luu nidn nhu

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hdng, nhan, cam, quyt, chudi... Tir lau rdi,
hoa, qua dac sdn 1 la Nam da di vao ca dao,
dan ca va dupe ngudi trong tinh, ngoai tinh
mdn md. Nd'u la ngudi Ha Nam ydu men,
lir hao ve qud huang. ydu thich van hpe
dan gian thi khdng mdy ngudi khdng
thudc nhung cau phuong ngdn cd vdn
didu ngpt ngao, kieu nhu: "Chudi ngir Dai
Hoang, lang \ ang tid'n vua"; "Mia dudng
VTnh Tru. chudi ngu Dai Hoang"; "Cdm
chp Song, hdng Nhan My"; hoae cau
"Hdng Nhan Hau, dau Tai Ddm" "Ma
hdng Kim Bang, Long nhan Ly Nhan"...
Dai Hoang nay thudc xa Hda Hau, huydn
Ly Nhan, ed gid'ng chudi ngu tham ngon,
trude chuydn diing tid'n vua. Dat d day
hpp vdi loai chudi nay, mang gid'ng di nai
khac, phdm chat cung ngon nhung khdng
tham nhu d Dai Hoang. Cac xa nhu Nhan
Khang, Nhan My. thj Iran Vinh Tru...
cung thudc huyen Ly Nhan, thi ndi tid'ng
ve mia dudng (Vinh Tru), nai thi ndi tie'ng
bdi ed gidng hdng. noi thi ndi tid'ng ve
long nhan.
Khdng chi co nhidu dac san \ e hoa, qua
ma Ha Nam LOI\ la tinh cd nhieu dac san
vd qua banh. Ddng soan gia Biii Van

Cudng. Vu Quoc Ai. Dd Nguydn Hanh va
Doan Timg trong cudn "Ca dao tuc ngii
Ha Nam" (Ty \ an hoa Nam Ha, 1974) da
ghi lai tdi may chuc loai qua banh khac
nhau, ma phdn nhieu trong dd dupe xem
la dac san cho tiing vimg que.
Ldn theo ddng chay cua van hpe dan
gian Ha Nam, ngudi ta thay ve banh, ca
dao ed nhirng cau: "Nhat ngon la banh chp
Nga. Trai khdn Dp Xa, gai ngoan lang

_KHOA HOC VA CONG NGHE HA NAM


K H O A H O C X A HOI V A N H A N vArS
Lai" "Nha't ngon la banh Ngai Tridn, Trai
khdn Doan VT, gai hidn Td't Khd"... Ve xdi,
tac gia dan gian ciing kd ra hang loat loai
khac nhau, ma each kd rdt cd duydn:
"Di thi nhd quan Ba Hang
Vd thi nhd lang vat vd Lidu Ddi
Nhd tay em dam dTa xdi
Cai dTa xdi gdc ddy cdi tam tam
Xdi dau, xdi cu ddy mam
Xdi md ga thidn, md mang td't tuai
Xdi triitig vang udi vang uai
Mdt ngudi nang dTa, mudi ngudi
mudn an..."
Vd biin cGng cd nhidu loai, ma loai
nao cQng ngon, ciing khdu gpi, hdp ddn:

"Chp Nghe cd mdn biin ridu
Biin cua, bun de, bun tidu, bun ga
Bun dudng biia cai spi nga nga
Biinriduddy gach 66 xoa ldn trdn..."
Dd la biin chp Nghe, thuoc xa Lidm
San, Thanh Lidm. Nhung biin chp Chanh,
thudc xa Lidm Son, ciing huydn Thanh Lidm
Cling khdng kem phdn thuyd't phuc:
"Mud'n an biin vit lang Chanh
Thi vd dan cdt, dan manh che
mua..."
Oi6i ciing chiing tdi thdy cdn kd qua vd
dac san hoa mau cua tinh Ha Nam. Trong
thanh phdn ca cau biia an cua ngudi binh
dan Ha Nam xua kia, hoa mau chid'm mdt
vj tri quan trpng, nhieu khi cdn phd bid'n
hcfn ca liia gao. 6 huydn Kim Bang Mdt
huydn ban son dja, ndm d phia Tay Bde cua
tinh, nai cd con sdng Day chay qua, ngudi
dan cho bid't viing nay cd nhieu khoai lang
va khoai kha ngon, tu:ng di vao phuang
ngdn, ca dao, dan ca dja phuang. Tidu bidu
KHOA HOC VA CONG NGHE HA NAM.

hon ca la nhiing cau phuang ngdn, kidu
nhu "Ca chp Sao, gao chp Sang, khoai lang
Thp Lao"; "Sd'ng an khoai lang Dam. Chd't
khdng ed tam cung thdi"... Thp Lao nay
thudc xa Hoang Tay; Lang Dam tire fa lang
Phii Dam, xa Phii Van, thanh phd Phu Ly.

Nhu'ng lang nay ddu trai dpc bdn sdng Day
va sdng Dao, cd mdt vet ddt bai kha rdng
dimg trdng khoai lang. Khoai ciia hai lang
ndi tid'ng bd, thom ngon, ham lupng tinh
bdt cao, vupt trdi so vdi khoai lang cua
nhu'ng nai khac.
Tiru chung, bdng nhirng eir lieu tha ca
va van vdn dan gian Ha Nam, chiing tdi da
cd gdng gidi thidu, dii so lupc va chua day
du, nhiing huang vj dm thuc ay it nhieu
mang tinh dac san ciia ngudi blnh dan noi
day dd ban dpc tham khao. Vi edn so lupc
va chua day du ndn chung toi chua dam
dua ra nhung nhan dinh cd y nghTa tdng
kd't vd dd'i tupng, ma ehi mudn muon ldi
van cua nha van Vu Bdng dd thay cho ldi
kd't luan "Mdt Ip ca eudng khdng to han
mdt ngdn tay, vai cai banh com, mdt bdn
lang che man sen, hay mdt Ip vtmg, hoae
chai nude mdm, may thii 66 tinh theo thdi
gia khdng qua nam chuc bac. Thd' nhitng
nhirng thii qua ay dem dd'n cho ldng ta bao
nhidu su ddm say! Ta cdm lay ma thdy nhu
dm mdt chiit huang hoa ciia ddt nude vao
ldng. Ai dam bao an ud'ng khdng phai la
nghd thuat am thue?... (Midng ngon Ha
Ndi NXB Van hpe Ha Ndi, 1993)./.
f* Tha ca ddn gian duac trich trong
cudn "Ca dao, ddn ca, tuc ngii Nam Hd "
Bid Vdn Cudng chu bien, Ty Vdn hod Nam

Hd, 1974).
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