Công nghệ sản xuất Chocolate

INDUSTRIAL CHOCOLATE
MANUFACTURE AND USE

Industrial Chocolate Manufacture and Use: Fourth Edition. Edited by Stephen T. Beckett
© 2009 Blackwell Publishing Ltd. ISBN: 978-1-405-13949-6

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INDUSTRIAL CHOCOLATE
MANUFACTURE AND USE
Fourth Edition

Edited by

Stephen T. Beckett
Formerly Nestlé PTC
York, UK

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This edition first published 2009
Third edition published 1999
Second edition published 1994 by Chapman and Hall
First edition published 1988 by Chapman and Hall

© 1999, 2009 by Blackwell Publishing Ltd
Blackwell Publishing was acquired by John Wiley & Sons in February 2007.
Blackwell’s publishing programme has been merged with Wiley’s global
Scientific, Technical, and Medical business to form Wiley-Blackwell.
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The right of the author to be identified as the author of this work has been
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All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval
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assistance is required, the services of a competent professional should be sought.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Industrial chocolate manufacture and use / edited by Steve Beckett – 4th ed.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN-13: 978-1-4051-3949-6 (hardback : alk. paper)
ISBN-10: 1-4051-3949-8 (hardback : alk. paper)
1. Chocolate. 2. Cocoa. I. Beckett, S.T.
TP640.I53 2008
664.5—dc22
2008006200
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
Set in 10/12 pt Palatino by Newgen Imaging Systems Pvt. Ltd, Chennai, India
Printed in Singapore by Fabulous Printers Pte Ltd
1

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CONTENTS

Preface
Contributors
1

2

xxii

xxv

Traditional Chocolate Making
S.T. Beckett
1.1 History
1.2 Outline of process
1.2.1 Preparation of cocoa nib – flavour development
1.2.2 Grinding – particle size reduction
1.2.3 Conching – flavour and texture development
1.3 Concept of the book
References

1

Cocoa Beans: from Tree to Factory
M.S. Fowler
2.1 Introduction
2.2 Growing cocoa
2.2.1 Where cocoa is grown
2.2.2 Varieties of cocoa: Criollo, Forastero, Trinitario
and Nacional
2.2.3 Climatic and environmental requirements
2.2.4 Propagation of the planting material
2.2.5 Establishment and development of the
plants in the field
2.2.6 Major pests and diseases
2.2.7 Flowering and pod development
2.2.8 Harvesting, pod opening and yields
2.2.9 Environmental aspects of cocoa cultivation
2.2.10 Labour practices on farms

2.3 Fermentation and drying
2.3.1 Fermentation
2.3.2 Microbiological aspects of fermentation
2.3.3 Development of cocoa flavour precursors
2.3.4 Drying

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2.4

The cocoa supply chain
2.4.1 Internal market
2.4.2 International cocoa markets
2.4.3 Fairtrade
2.4.4 Shipment of cocoa
2.4.5 Moisture movement during shipment
2.4.6 Storage of cocoa
2.4.7 Infestation of cocoa
2.5 Quality assessment of cocoa
2.5.1 Composition of cocoa beans

2.5.2 Cocoa beans: quality aspects and contracts
2.5.3 Cocoa beans: sampling and the ‘cut test’
2.5.4 Contaminants and residues
2.5.5 Cocoa butter hardness
2.5.6 Sensory evaluation
2.6 Types and origins of cocoa beans used in chocolate
2.6.1 Sources of bulk cocoas
2.6.2 Côte d’Ivoire (Ivory Coast)
2.6.3 Ghana
2.6.4 Indonesia
2.6.5 Nigeria
2.6.6 Cameroon
2.6.7 Brazil
2.6.8 Ecuador
2.6.9 Speciality, origin and ‘fine’ or ‘flavour’ cocoas
Conclusions
References and Further reading
Abbreviations/Acronyms/Websites

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33

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47

Sugar and Bulk Sweeteners
Ch. Krüger
3.1 Introduction
3.2 The production of sugar
3.3 Sugar qualities
3.4 The storage of sugar
3.5 Sugar grinding and the prevention of sugar
dust explosions
3.6 Amorphous sugar
3.7 Other sugars and bulk sweeteners
3.7.1 Invert sugar
3.7.2 Glucose

3.7.3 Fructose
3.7.4 Tagatose
3.7.5 Lactose

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3.7.6 Isomaltulose
3.7.7 Trehalose
3.7.8 Polydextrose
3.7.9 Inulin
3.7.10 Sorbitol
3.7.11 Mannitol
3.7.12 Xylitol

3.7.13 Erythritol
3.7.14 Maltitol
3.7.15 Maltitol syrup
3.7.16 Isomalt
3.7.17 Lactitol
3.8 Physiological characteristics of sugars and
bulk sweeteners
3.9 The sweetening power of sugars and bulk sweeteners
3.10 Other sensory properties of sugars and bulk sweeteners
3.11 Solubilities and melting points of sugars and
bulk sweeteners
3.12 Maximum conching temperatures of chocolate
masses with different bulk sweeteners
Conclusions
References
Further reading
4

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Ingredients from Milk
S.J. Haylock and T.M. Dodds
4.1 Introduction
4.2 Milk fat
4.2.1 Anhydrous milk fat
4.2.2 Flavour of milk fat
4.2.3 Interactions of milk fat and cocoa butter
4.2.4 Milk fat fractions
4.2.5 ‘Free’ and ‘bound’ milk fat
4.2.6 Bloom

4.3 Milk powder
4.3.1 Skim milk powder: non-fat dried milk
4.3.2 Whole milk powder
4.3.3 High-fat powders
4.3.4 Buttermilk powder
4.3.5 Formulated milk powders
4.3.6 Whey powders
4.4 Milk crumb
4.5 Lactose
4.6 New consumer requirements

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Summary

Acknowledgements
References
5

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Chocolate Crumb
M.A. Wells
5.1 Introduction and history
5.2 Benefits of milk crumb
5.3 Typical crumb recipes
5.4 Flavour development in chocolate crumb
5.5 Sugar crystallization during crumb manufacture
5.6 The structure of chocolate crumb
5.6.1 Crystallinity
5.6.2 Fat availability
5.6.3 Fat droplet size
5.6.4 Aeration
5.6.5 Overall particle size distribution
5.7 Typical crumb processes and equipment
5.7.1 Batch oven process
5.7.2 Continuous processes
5.8 Effect of the crumb process upon the crumb properties
5.9 Changes to crumb during storage
Conclusions
References
Production and Quality Standards of Cocoa Mass,
Cocoa Butter and Cocoa Powder

H.J. Kamphuis
6.1 Introduction
6.2 Cleaning of cocoa beans
6.3 Removal of shell
6.4 Breaking and winnowing
6.5 Alkalization
6.6 Bean and nib roasting
6.7 Cocoa mass (cocoa liquor)
6.7.1 Grinding cocoa nibs
6.7.2 Quality of cocoa mass for the chocolate industry
6.7.3 Quality of cocoa mass for the production of
cocoa powder and butter
6.8 Cocoa butter
6.9 Cocoa powder
6.9.1 Types of cocoa powder
6.9.2 Quality of cocoa powder
Summary

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Acknowledgements
References
Further reading

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139
140

Particle Size Reduction
G.R. Ziegler and R. Hogg
7.1 Introduction
7.2 Principles of fine grinding
7.2.1 Breakage mechanisms
7.2.2 Grinding processes
7.3 Grinding equipment
7.3.1 Crushers
7.3.2 Media mills
7.3.3 Impact mills
7.3.4 Fluid energy mills

7.3.5 Guidelines for equipment selection
7.4 Cocoa nib grinding
7.5 Chocolate refining
7.5.1 The five-roll refiner
7.5.2 Crumb chocolate
7.5.3 Sugar substitutes
7.5.4 The refiner-conche
7.5.5 Refining in the presence of water
7.5.6 Milling cocoa powder
7.6 Particle size reduction and chocolate flow properties
7.7 Particle size and sensory properties
Conclusions
References

142

Flavour Development in Cocoa and Chocolate
G. Ziegleder
8.1 Introduction
8.2 Fermentation
8.2.1 The fermentation process
8.2.2 Chemical changes and development of
flavour precursors
8.2.3 Over-fermentation
8.3 Drying
8.4 Roasting
8.4.1 Roasting process and the further development
of flavour precursors
8.4.2 Roast flavour
8.5 Conching

8.5.1 Thin-film-treatment of roasted cocoa liquor
8.5.2 Effect of conching on aroma development

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8.6 Plain chocolate and milk chocolate
Conclusions
References

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188
188

Conching
S.T. Beckett
9.1 Introduction: The reason for conching
9.1.1 Flavour development
9.1.2 Flow property optimization
9.2 The principles of conching
9.2.1 Removal of volatiles and temperature control
9.2.2 Fat and emulsifier additions
9.2.3 The degree of mixing
9.3 The three phases of conching
9.3.1 Dry phase conching
9.3.2 Pasty phase conching
9.3.3 Liquid phase conching
9.4 Conching machines
9.4.1 History
9.4.2 Batch conches
9.4.3 Continuous conches
9.4.4 Cocoa mass (liquor) treatment devices
9.4.5 Liquefiers
9.4.6 Combined grinding/conching machines
Summary
References

192

Chocolate Flow Properties
S.T. Beckett
10.1 Introduction
10.2 Non-Newtonian flow
10.3 Presentation of viscosity measurements

10.4 Single point flow measurement
10.4.1 Flow-cup viscometer
10.4.2 Falling-ball viscometer
10.4.3 Gardner mobilometer
10.4.4 Torsion viscometer (Gallenkamp or Fison)
10.4.5 MacMichael viscometer
10.5 Rotational viscometers
10.6 Sample preparation and measurement procedures
10.6.1 Sample preparation
10.6.2 Checking the viscometer
10.6.3 Preconditioning
10.6.4 Shear rate range

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10.6.5 Holding time at the maximum shear rate
10.6.6 Hysteresis
10.6.7 Overall measurement time
10.7 Factors affecting the flow properties of chocolate
10.7.1 Fat content

10.7.2 Particle size distribution
10.7.3 Surface-active agents (emulsifiers)
10.7.4 Conching
10.7.5 Moisture
10.7.6 Vibration
Conclusions
References
11 Bulk Chocolate Handling
J.H. Walker
11.1 Introduction
11.2 Viscosity and viscometry
11.2.1 What is viscosity?
11.2.2 Laminar and turbulent flow
11.3 Pump sizes
11.3.1 Power
11.3.2 Speed
11.4 General criteria for choosing a pump
11.5 Types of pumps
11.5.1 Gear pumps
11.5.2 Sliding vane pumps
11.5.3 Lobe and rotary piston pumps
11.5.4 Screw pumps
11.5.5 Pawl pumps
11.5.6 Progressive cavity mono pumps
11.5.7 Positive displacement piston and
diaphragm pumps
11.6 Pipeline pigging
11.7 Storage of liquid chocolate
11.8 Jacketed pipe work
11.9 Contamination removal

11.9.1 Magnets
11.9.2 Sieving
Conclusions
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Chocolate Temper
G. Talbot
12.1 Introduction
12.2 Polymorphism of cocoa butter

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Contents

12.3

Relationship between polymorphism and
chocolate tempering
12.4 Tempering
12.5 Measurement of temper
12.6 Tempering by seeding
Summary
References
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273
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275

Tempering
E.J. Windhab
13.1 Introduction
13.2 Physics of cocoa butter crystallization
13.3 Chocolate tempering technology
13.4 Measurement of temper and its related characteristics
13.4.1 Tempermeters
13.4.2 Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC)

13.4.3 Thermorheometry
13.4.4 Nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR)
13.5 Tempering processes
13.5.1 The principle of conventional continuous
chocolate ‘stir/shear-tempering’
13.5.2 Impact of temperature/temperature control
13.5.3 Impact of shear
13.5.4 Importance of residence time distribution (RTD)
13.5.5 ‘Recipe factors’ influencing tempering quality
13.6 Types of tempering machine
13.6.1 Chocolate tempering kettles
13.6.2 Types of continuous industrial tempering machines
13.6.3 Continuous industrial seed-tempering
13.7 Properties of CBCS-tempered chocolate
13.7.1 Pre-crystallized liquid state
13.7.2 Semi-solid and solid state
13.8 Other methods of tempering
Conclusions
Acknowledgements
References
Further reading
Appendix

276

Moulding, Enrobing and Cooling Chocolate Products
M.P. Gray
14.1 Introduction
14.2 Moulding
14.2.1 Background

14.2.2 Loose and fixed mould plants

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14.2.3 Mould conditioning
14.2.4 Depositors
14.2.5 Adding inclusions
14.2.6 Removal of air bubbles
14.2.7 Shell forming
14.2.8 Centre filling
14.2.9 Backing off
14.2.10 Cooling
14.2.11 Demoulding
14.2.12 Troubleshooting demoulding problems
14.2.13 In-line storage systems
14.2.14 Keeping moulds clean and changeovers

14.2.15 Other methods for shelling forming
14.2.16 Troubleshooting moulded product faults
14.2.17 Mould design, care and innovations
14.3 Enrobing
14.3.1 Background
14.3.2 Basic layout of an enrober
14.3.3 Enrobers with inbuilt temperers
14.3.4 Enrobers with external temperers
14.3.5 Chocolate recirculation
14.3.6 Temper
14.3.7 Enrober components
14.3.8 Changeovers
14.3.9 Avoidance of air bubbles
14.3.10 Avoidance of chocolate build-up inside an enrober
14.3.11 Down stream processes
14.3.12 Cooling
Conclusions
Acknowledgements
Further reading

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357

Cold Forming Technologies
J.H. Walker and S.T. Beckett
15.1 Introduction
15.2 Background
15.3 Principle of operation of the cold forming technologies
15.4 Advantages of the cold forming technologies
15.5 Disadvantages of the cold forming method
15.6 Further developments

15.6.1 ‘Mouldless’ system
15.6.2 Multiple product with direct packing
15.6.3 Solidification on plunger
Conclusions
References

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Chocolate Panning
M. Aebi
16.1 Introduction
16.1.1 History
16.1.2 Definitions
16.2 Panning methods
16.2.1 Chocolate panning
16.2.2 Soft coatings
16.2.3 Hard coating
16.2.4 Film and suspension coating
16.3 The process of chocolate panning
16.3.1 Centre selection
16.3.2 Centre preparation
16.3.3 Selection of chocolate and compound coatings
16.3.4 Chocolate and compound engrossing
16.3.5 Polishing and sealing
16.4 Packaging and storage
16.5 The panning department
16.5.1 Room conditions
16.5.2 Panning equipment
Summary
References
Non-Conventional Machines and Processes
S.T. Beckett
17.1 Introduction
17.2 Ultrasound
17.3 High shear/low-temperature crystallizer
17.4 High-pressure temperer
17.5 Extrusion

17.5.1 Types of extruders
17.5.2 The extruder as a flavour modifier
17.5.3 The extruder as a chocolate conche
17.5.4 The extrusion of tubular shapes, ropes and nets
17.6 ‘Single shot’ depositors
17.6.1 Background
17.6.2 Basic principles of ‘single-shot’ depositing
17.6.3 Limitations of ‘single-shot’ depositing
17.6.4 Key control parameters
17.7 Aeration of chocolate
17.7.1 Types of aeration
17.7.2 Vacuum aeration
17.7.3 High-pressure aeration systems
17.7.4 Water evaporation methods

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Conclusions
References

406
407

Chocolate Rework
E. Minson
18.1 Introduction
18.2 Rework
18.3 Constraints
18.4 Economics
Conclusions
References

409

Vegetable Fats

G. Talbot
19.1 Types of vegetable fat
19.2 Fat properties
19.3 Cocoa butter
19.4 Cocoa butter equivalents (CBEs)
19.4.1 Properties and production
19.4.2 Chocolate containing 5% CBE
19.4.3 Supercoating
19.5 Lauric cocoa butter substitutes
19.5.1 Quality control
19.6 Non-lauric cocoa butter replacers
19.7 New fats for chocolate and coatings
19.7.1 Fats to prevent chocolate bloom
19.7.2 Lower calorie fats
Summary
References
Further reading
Recipes
E.G. Wohlmuth
20.1 Chocolate tastes in different countries
20.1.1 History
20.1.2 Taste in different countries
20.2 The basic ingredients
20.2.1 Sugar
20.2.2 Milk
20.2.3 Cocoa beans and mass
20.3 Conching to develop flavours
20.4 Chocolate recipes
20.4.1 Chocolate bars/tablets
20.4.2 Chocolate confectionery

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20.4.3
20.4.4
20.4.5
20.4.6
20.4.7
Conclusions
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Ice cream and frozen desserts/confectionery
Bakery, biscuits and chocolate chip products
Speciality products
No added sugar chocolate

Non-cocoa butter coatings

Project Management and Process Control
U. Löser
21.1 Introduction
21.2 Project management
21.2.1 Project work and individual customization
21.2.2 Special aspects relating to the manufacture of
cocoa and chocolate products
21.2.3 Role of process control
21.2.4 Machines and plants
21.3 Material and process analyses
21.3.1 Data collection and process
21.3.2 Fault finding and plant optimization
21.4 Relationship between man and machine
21.4.1 Control of the production processes
21.5 Measurement types and locations
Conclusions
Further reading
Instrumentation
U. Löser
22.1 Introduction
22.1.1 General measurement tasks
22.1.2 Microbiological measurements
22.1.3 Use of data analysis
22.1.4 Use of results of data analysis to provide long-term
production stability
22.2 Production measurement technology – in/on-line, off-line
22.2.1 Recording time
22.2.2 Recording position (location)

22.2.3 Recording by numbers
22.2.4 Recording ‘patterns’
22.2.5 Recording the degree of filling (fill level)
22.2.6 Recording by weighing
22.2.7 Measuring temperatures
22.2.8 Recording the degree of temper
22.2.9 Pressure measurement
22.2.10 Measuring moisture/relative humidity

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22.2.11 Recording flow characteristics
22.2.12 Recording particle size
22.2.13 Production monitoring
22.2.14 Detecting foreign matter
22.3 Laboratory analysis
22.3.1 Moisture measurement
22.3.2 Determination of fat content (Soxhlet)

22.3.3 Solid fat content
22.3.4 Particle size measurement
22.3.5 Triglyceride (triacylglycerides) composition –
vegetable fat content
22.3.6 Viscosity
22.4 Summary of important analytical procedures in a
typical quality assurance laboratory
22.4.1 General: Organisation of sampling, sample
storage, sample preparation
22.4.2 Analysis
Conclusions
References
Further reading
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Food Safety in Chocolate Manufacture and Processing
F. Burndred
23.1 Introduction
23.2 The importance of food safety management in chocolate
processing
23.3 HACCP and pre-requisite programmes
23.4 Physical hazards
23.4.1 Physical hazards in incoming raw materials
23.4.2 Physical hazards during processing
23.4.3 Physical hazards from failures of pre-requisite
programmes
23.4.4 Detection of physical hazards
23.5 Chemical hazards

23.5.1 Chemical hazards in incoming ingredients
23.5.2 Chemical hazards occurring
during processing
23.6 Microbiological hazards
23.6.1 Salmonella
23.6.2 Salmonella in raw materials
23.6.3 Prevention of microbiological contamination
during processing
23.6.4 Water control and cleaning practices
23.6.5 Microbiological monitoring

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Contents

23.7 Allergen hazards
23.7.1 Allergens as ingredients
23.7.2 Allergens from cross contacts at the factory
23.7.3 Control measures
Conclusions
References

545
546
547
548
549
549

Packaging
C.E. Jones
24.1 Introduction
24.2 Confectionery types
24.2.1 Moulded chocolate tablets and bars
24.2.2 Chocolate countlines
24.2.3 Bulk chocolate
24.2.4 Boxed chocolates
24.2.5 Twist wrapping
24.2.6 Easter eggs and others seasonal chocolate novelties
24.2.7 Shelf ready/retail ready packaging
24.3 Flow-wrap machinery and sealing
24.4 Materials
24.4.1 Aluminium foil
24.4.2 Paper and board

24.4.3 Regenerated cellulose film
24.4.4 Plastic films
24.4.5 Cold seal
24.4.6 Bio-polymers
24.5 Quality control and environmental criteria
24.5.1 Quality control
24.5.2 Environmental issues
Acknowledgements
Further reading

551

Legal Aspects of Chocolate Manufacture
A. Martinez-Inchausti
25.1 Introduction
25.2 Compositional issues for chocolate – the EU picture
25.2.1 Sales names and definitions under
European Parliament and Council Directive
2000/36/EC (2000)
25.2.2 The use of additives
25.3 Labelling of chocolate products – the EU picture
25.4 The international scene
25.4.1 Codex Alimentarius definitions for cocoa and
chocolate products

551
551
551
553
554

554
557
559
560
561
563
563
564
567
568
571
572
573
573
574
575
575
576
576
576

578
581
582
585
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Contents

Definitions of major types of USA chocolate
confectionery
25.5 Future issues for chocolate manufacture – the EU picture
References
Further reading

xix

25.4.2

26

27

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Intellectual Property; Protecting Products and Processes
P.J. Couzens
26.1 Introduction
26.2 Patents
26.2.1 What is a patent?
26.2.2 International protection
26.2.3 The life of a patent family
26.2.4 The cost of a patent
26.2.5 Where to find patents
26.2.6 How to read a patent
26.3 Trade marks
26.3.1 Maintaining trade mark rights

26.3.2 Unfair competition and ‘Passing Off’
26.4 Designs
26.5 Copyright
26.6 Contracts and agreements
26.7 Trade secrets
26.8 Protection strategy
26.9 How to find help
Conclusions
References
Useful web addresses
Nutrition and Health Aspects of Chocolate
J.P. Lambert
27.1 Introduction
27.2 Macronutrients
27.2.1 Fats
27.2.2 Carbohydrates
27.2.3 Proteins
27.3 Vitamins and minerals
27.4 Flavanols
27.5 Methylxanthines and other potentially psychoactive
compounds
27.5.1 Caffeine and theobromine
27.5.2 Biogenic amines and anandamide
27.6 Chocolate’s contribution to the diet

590
591
592
593
595

595
595
595
598
599
599
601
602
608
609
610
610
611
612
614
616
619
620
621
621
623
623
623
623
624
625
625
626
626
626

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Contents

27.7

Cardiovascular disease
27.7.1 Cocoa flavanols
27.7.2 Cocoa butter
27.8 Sugar
27.8.1 Sugar and calories
27.8.2 Insulin and diabetes
27.8.3 Dental health
27.8.4 Hyperactivity in children
27.9 Obesity and weight management
27.9.1 Diet
27.9.2 Snacking, chocolate and energy dense
snack consumption
27.9.3 Energy expenditure
27.10 Other health issues
27.10.1 Acne
27.10.2 Migraine and headaches
27.10.3 Allergies
27.10.4 Chocolate and mood elevation

27.10.5 Chocolate ‘addiction’
Conclusions
References
Further reading
28

29

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Chocolate Marketing and Other Aspects of the Confectionery
Industry Worldwide
M.J. Webber
28.1 Introduction
28.2 Characteristics of the market
28.3 A short history of the industry and its products
28.4 Consumption of confectionery around the world
28.5 Reasons for eating confectionery
28.6 The marketing of confectionery
28.7 Official classifications of confectionery
28.8 Legal requirements affecting confectionery
Conclusions
References
Further reading
Future Trends
S.T. Beckett
29.1 Past predictions
29.1.1 New materials
29.1.2 Packaging
29.1.3 Processing

627
627
629
629
629
629
630
630
631
631
632
632
633
633
633
634
634
634
634
635
635

636
636
637
639
640
642
646

651
651
653
655
655
656
656
656
657
658

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Contents

29.2

Present position
29.2.1 Materials
29.2.2 Processing
29.3 Possible future trends
References
Glossary
Useful Physical Constants
Index

xxi
658
658

659
659
661
663
667
669

Colour plates appear between pages 368 and 369

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PREFACE

It is now nineteen years since the first edition of Industrial Chocolate
Manufacture and Use was published and nine years since the third was
written. It is therefore very gratifying to have been asked to revise it once
again and I am very grateful to those authors who have once again updated
their chapters. Only one of these in fact contributed to the first edition. As
with every other industry, however, both people and technology change and
this new edition has had ten of the chapters completely rewritten. The book
has also been increased in size, by four chapters (five new topics), to give a
total of twenty-nine.
One of these new ones concerns chocolate crumb, which although
widely used in some markets is not often described in the literature. Cold
forming technologies had previously been reviewed as a ‘non-conventional’
process. Over the years it has become more widely used and now merits
its own chapter. With the increase in the size of production plants process

control has become more important and this too is reviewed in this edition.
Another new topic concerns intellectual property. A basic understanding of
this can be very important for example before launching a new product to
ensure that you are not infringing a process or product patent. Also how do
you make sure that no one copies your packaging design? Finally, although
the industry is under attack in some media as providing ‘junk food’ and
causing obesity, the new chapter on nutrition shows that this is far from the
case and chocolate is good for you!
Many of the other chapters have had a significant update. Nineteen
years ago most companies used a few basic recipes, but now the choice
is endless and a rewrite of the chapter on this topic shows some of the
possibilities. Failure to make a product safely can have a serious effect not
only upon the consumer, but also upon the industry itself. The chapter on
microbiology has therefore been rewritten and widened to include a lot of
other aspects of food safety.
It is hoped that the book will continue to provide an up-to-date scientific
and technical approach to the principles of chocolate manufacture, from
the growing of the cocoa beans to the packaging and marketing of the final
product. As the processes become larger and more complex, the aim is to
give the reader the principles behind them in a practical and readable form.
As with any multi-author book there are some repetitions, and indeed some
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Preface

xxiii

apparent contradictions are present. These have been deliberately left as
each author has written according to his or her own experience. They are
also an indication that our knowledge remains incomplete and that there
is still a lot for researchers into cocoa and its products to do. Mistakes still
occur however and I would welcome readers informing me of them. Two
letters in fact resulted in entries in the new edition. Some time ago I was told
that I was incorrect in saying that Daniel Peter invented milk chocolate. This
resulted in me going to the Nestlé archives in Switzerland and finding his
original notebook, a page from which is reproduced in Chapter 1. Secondly
a competitor complained that the measurement of thermal conductivity was
incorrect. The source of the original entry was traced and admitted that he
hadn’t measured it himself. In the end the measurements were made by
Leatherhead Food International (UK) and have been included in the table of
physical constants.
I would once again like to thank all the authors who have contributed
to the book for the care they have taken and the time they have spent in
producing their chapters. Even revising an original chapter can take a
considerable effort in confirming new information, updating references, etc.
There cannot be many industries where people from competing companies
and different continents come together to produce a book. The wide range
of knowledge and experience of the different authors has greatly added to
its usefulness to people within chocolate making and has resulted in the first
three editions being present in factories in Asia, Africa and South America, as
well as in those countries in which it was written.
It is sometimes said that the worldwide web will remove the necessity
for books. I certainly hope that this is not the case and have not always
found the web to be as reliable as you might expect. The website of one major
international company proudly announced that its chocolate was processed

in a sea shell, which I very much doubt and suspect the author’s miss-use
of a thesaurus on the word conche. An on-line encyclopaedia on the other
hand informed me that most cocoa butter is made by hanging up sacks of
nibs in a warm room, so that the fat runs out. I hope that readers will find this
book to be much more reliable.
I would also like to thank my family for their help with the figures and
indexing and for putting up with me spending most of my free time on
it, and the publisher for giving me the opportunity and encouragement to
produce a new edition.
My sincere gratitude to Maxine Keeping of Nestlé PTC, York for her help
and advice in preparing the references for several authors.
The following organizations are thanked for their permission to reproduce illustrative material and for the use of registered trade names: Aasted
Mikrowerk; ADM Cocoa; Alfa Lavel Inc; APV Baker plc; Awema; BSS
Group; Maschinenfabrik G.W. Barth GmbH; Gebrüder Bauermeister GmbH;
Brabender MesstechnikKG; Bühler Brothers Ltd; Buss-Luwa AB; Cadbury
Ltd.; Carle & Montanari SpA; Cultor Food Science Inc.; B.V. Machinefabriek

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Preface

P.M. Duyvis; Gainsborough Engineering Co; J.W. Greer Co; Otto Hansel
GmbH; Kreuter GmbH; F.B. Lehmann MaschiinenfabrikGmbH; Ladco
(Low & Duff (developments) Ltd; Lesme Callebaut Ltd; Lindt & Sprüngli
Ltd; Lipp Mischtechnik GmbH; List AG (Switzerland); Loders Croklaan;

Malvern Instruments; Mars Confectionery Ltd; Micronizing (UK) Ltd; Nestlé
S.A.; OPM (Italy); Petzholdt Heidenauer Maschinenfabrik; Wilhelm Rasch
& Co. GmbH; Sollich GmbH; Thouet KG Maschinenbau; Tourell; Unified
Brands (Groen); Werner & Pfleiderer Maschinenfabrik; Weiner; George D.
Woody Associates.
STB

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CONTRIBUTORS

Stephen T. Beckett, B.Sc. (Durham), D.Phil. (York, UK) in physics, worked
for 8 years on research into asbestosis. The interest gained here in particle
size distribution measurement, together with its effect on flow properties,
continued into the confectionery industry. Here he worked for more than
27 years, initially for Rowntree Mackintosh and subsequently with Nestlé.
The work has primarily been concerned with research and development,
but also included a period as Process Development Manager. He has given
several lectures on different aspects of chocolate making at Leatherhead
Food International in the UK and the German Confectionery College (ZDS),
Solingen, as well as two presentations at both the PMCA conference in the
USA and the CMA conference in Australia. He has written a book on the
science of chocolate and has several published papers on this topic and is
the named inventor on more than six confectionery patents. Currently he is
chairman of the ZDS Chocolate Technology Conference Committee.
Marcel Aebi is a classically trained confectioner – patissiere from Switzerland.
After several years travelling around the world working in the confectionery

industry, he joined Nestlé in 1978. For the last 20 years he has worked in the
area of New Product Development and Process Application in panning, both
in Europe and America. He is currently based at Nestlé R&D in Marysville,
Ohio, USA.
Faith Burndred has a B.Sc. in chemistry from The University of York, UK.
She joined Nestlé in 1992 and since then has held a variety of technical
roles supporting the confectionery business, including factory quality
management. She is currently a QA specialist in the Nestlé Product
Technology Centre in York, supporting confectionery factories worldwide in
food safety matters.
Patrick J. Couzens joined Nestlé’s confectionery business in 1991 after
obtaining a D.Phil. in physical chemistry from the University of York. For the
first few years he worked as a research scientist and has published studies
of lipid migration in confectionery products. He then moved into product
development, specializing in panned confectionery. In 2005 he presented a
lecture on the science of chocolate at the Royal Institution in London. Since
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