The art of french pastry phần 6
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andcookedtheminbutter
forthesavory,thin-crusted
tartesàl’oignond’Alsace
thatmydadmadeoncea
week.SometimesIwas
requiredtobrushhispuff
pastryvolauventswith
eggwash,ataskhewas
veryparticularabout,as
toomucheggwashwould
preventthepuffpastry
fromrising.
Duringtheholiday
seasontherewere
hundredsuponhundreds
ofChristmascookiesto
makeandtheentirefamily
workedtogether,listening
forhoursonendtoEdith
Piaf,CharlesTrenet,
MauriceChevalier,and
otherfamousFrenchstars
ofthe’50sand’60s.Today
Ilovethatmusic,butback
thenIsufferedthroughit.
Whenschoolwasn’tin
sessionandifmyfather’s
assistantdidn’tshowup,
mydadwouldwakemein
thenighttoassisthimin
scaling350-grampiecesof
doughforbaguettesand
batards,whoseweightsare
strictlyenforcedinFrance.
Thedoughwouldstickto
myinexperiencedfingers
asifitwantedtobea
permanentpartofme.At
thetimeitwasfrustrating
todealwiththissticky
doughwhilewatchingmy
fathershapeallofthe
loavesquicklyand
efficiently.
Butthebakery,which
myparentshadbuiltwith
theirownsweatandtears,
with250francs(about
$50)intheirpocket,was
notalldrudgeryforme.I
lovedtoworkwithmy
handsfromaveryyoung
age,andafterschoolifI
wasn’tplayingsocceror
participatinginsome
contestmybrotherand
sistersandIhadcooked
up,ortendinganinjured
animalI’drescuedfrom
thebarn,I’daskmymom
foranydoughscrapsleft
overfromthemorning’s
production.Iwashappyto
spendhoursmaking
sculpturesorculinary
