The art of french pastry phần 314
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Clauss’sapprentices.”I
askedhimhowheknew,
andhejustsmiledagain
andwalkedaway.Then
anotherjudgecamebyand
asked,“Areyouan
apprenticeofJean
Clauss?”
“Yes,howdidyou
know?”
“Becauseyouhavea
blackeye.”
Thenightbefore,Jean
Clauss,inoneofhistypical
alcoholicrages,hadhitme.
Ithadcomefromoutof
nowhere,whileIwas
practicingliningtartshells.
TheotherapprenticeI
workedwithhadangered
himandhadbeensent
away,leavingmealone
withtheunpredictable
master.DidJeanClauss
routinelysendhis
apprenticestotheirexams
withblackeyesaswellas
impeccableskills?
Thejudgesaskedmeto
doanumberofpastry
items,includingpiedough.
Theytoldmetomixupthe
doughandletitrest
overnight.Thenextday
theyaskedmetobringthe
doughandtheringand
linethetartshellinfront
ofthem.Therewerefour
orfivejudgesstanding
therewithclipboards,and
Iwasterrified.ButI
managedtofocusanddo
mything:Irolledoutthe
doughandlinedthering,
makingsurethatIleftno
spaceatthebottomofthe
ringandthatthedough
wasaneventhicknessall
thewayaround.Iwasthen
goingtoputthelinedring
onasheetpantomakea
tart.ButbeforeIcouldput
itonthesheetpanthe
judgesrippedtheringfrom
myhandsandrolledit,like
awheel,downthelengthof
the8-foottable.Ifthering
hadnotbeenproperly
lined,thedoughwould
havecollapsedinward.
Nobodyhadwarnedme
aboutthistest;butmy
doughheld.Ipassedmy
CAPwithoneofthe
highestgradesinAlsace.
