The art of french pastry phần 587
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tousepotteryandnot
somethinglikeametal
Bundtpan,whichwould
bakethebreadtoo
quickly.Althoughwe
schleppthemoldsback
fromAlsaceforthe
FrenchPastrySchool,you
canfindceramic
kougelhofmoldsor
monkeybreadmolds
onlinethroughretailers.If
youwanttoorderthem
directlyfromAlsace,there
isasitecalledwww.alsacedepot.comthatwillship.
Youcanalsobakethemin
akougelhofsiliconemold
soldthrough
www.demarleathome.com,
whichisagreatandvery
practicaloption,though
ofcourseyouwon’thave
thepatinathataceramic
molddevelops.
Yeastbreadsarenot
normallybakedinceramic
molds,butinAlsacewe
havebeenbakingour
kougelhofthiswaysince
theMiddleAges.In
additiontotheclassic
couronnewiththeholein
themiddle,theold
ceramicmoldscomein
manydifferentshapes,
eachonesymbolizinga
specificholiday.Thereare
fleurs-de-lisforrichkings,
starsfortheChristmas
holidays,lambsforEaster,
couplesformarriages,
andmore.Ihavebeen
collectingantiqueAlsatian
moldsforyears,beginning
withtheblackceramic
kougelhofmoldthatI
salvagedfrommyfather’s
bakeryonthedaythatit
wassold.
JACQUY’S
TAKEAWAYS
>>Theruleofthumb
foryeastdoughsis
thatyoufillyour
panhalfwayfull
withdough.This
willleaveenough
roomforittorise.
>>Never,ever
refrigeratebread.
Refrigeratingbread
